- First Name
- Carlos
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2020
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 168
- Reaction score
- 219
- Location
- Menifee, California
- Vehicle(s)
- Tahoe
- Your Bronco Model
- Base
If you do brake those tabs just use crazy glue and baking soda, like new!!
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I have the harness. I pulled the black box (passenger side) and connected the harness. What does the other box connect to? I know the flat connector goes to the amp but I am unsure where the third connection is. Thank youThe harness is set up to power both the front and rear speakers. Kept in mind that the factory wiring only has outputs for 4 speakers. It feeds the rear 2 via 4 wires and then the front 4 wires go to the kick panel speakers and then to up to the dash speakers.
this configuration seems to work well. It allows the Key to apply is DSP magic to all the speakers. I don’t have a way to test it but it appears to open up the single to the rear speakers. I suspect that it is doing some channel summing… analyzing the front signal verse the rear and then filling in the what missing.
I should add that i have some background in audio from a failed consumer product I developed a decade ago. That was where I learned about how powerful DSP is. My engineering team could take a cheap driver and small enclosure and magically make it sound pretty damn good. It’s because of this that I believe Ford has intentionally degraded the should quality of the base system. There is no real reason for it to sound as bad as it does. Yes the cheap paper 4“ speakers are junk but with the magic of DSP you can get resonble sound quality out of them.
The amp has a connection on each side of it.I have the harness. I pulled the black box (passenger side) and connected the harness. What does the other box connect to? I know the flat connector goes to the amp but I am unsure where the third connection is. Thank you
I have the Memphis MJP6s on my kick panels and not sure why there is almost no base from them, the factory speakers sounded better and they are probably on 50 watts, I wonder if the reason is due to them being shared with the dash speakers. also, the Kicker key limiters are coming on around 20 volume LEVEL, my next step is to get power and ground directly from the battery and chassis to see if that will help fix the issue.Do you think just adding the Memphis Audio MJP6 's in the kick panels is enough bass for the Bronco? I don't really feel like going to though al the trouble of adding a sub. SO far I've added kickers in all 4" locations and the kicker key 200.4.
I have the Memphis MJP6s on my kick panels and not sure why there is almost no base from them, the factory speakers sounded better and they are probably on 50 watts, I wonder if the reason is due to them being shared with the dash speakers. also, the Kicker key limiters are coming on around 20 volume LEVEL, my next step is to get power and ground directly from the battery and chassis to see if that will help fix the issue.
I wonder if anyone here has tried bi-amp mode it makes sense but I think the volume of rear speakers will have to be adjusted by forescan. what a dilemma...
the two images show the wiring diagram for normal and bi-amp modes. hope this helps.
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Thank you for responding, I will follow your instructions, my other question concern is that the Memphis speakers have a max RMS wattage of 125 ( no minimum RMS wattage) the amp is definitely underpowering them.Did you see my post earlier about setting up the amp? I found it on another forum and it worked great for me. I'll report it here...
1. Reset the amp to default setting (hold the mic button down for 10 seconds - you'll hear a long beep).
2. Turn the amp gains ALL the way down (CCW)
3. Set the head unit EQ (Treble, Bass, Mids) where you WANT it.
4. Play the Kicker pink noise and turn the volume up until you see the LIMITER LED, then back the volume off one click - that's your MAX volume
5. Run the Kicker DSP setup with the pink noise on your max volume setting
6. After setup completes, click the mic button once, pink noise starts again. Now w/ pink noise playing at the SAME volume, turn each gain up until you hit the limiter LED, then back it off a bit.
7. Test the sound and see what you think.
That's interesting. The only reason I would consider the MJP6s is to get that extra bass. I don't need butt rattling bass, but enough to fill out the sound range. If the kicker Key can't push it then it doesn't make any sense to install them.Thank you for responding, I will follow your instructions, my other question concern is that the Memphis speakers have a max RMS wattage of 125 ( no minimum RMS wattage) the amp is definitely underpowering them.
I haven’t had any issues with mine. Great sound and definitely more bass than stock.That's interesting. The only reason I would consider the MJP6s is to get that extra bass. I don't need butt rattling bass, but enough to fill out the sound range. If the kicker Key can't push it then it doesn't make any sense to install them.
That is a first for sale, and so otherwordly over priced for just an enclosure. I was quoted less than that for a custom job.Wondering if anyone has bought the SRQ Subwoofer Enclosure yet? I like the idea, but I am not a fan of the grille thing.
https://srqcustoms.com/product/ford-bronco-subwoofer-enclosure-with-grille/
600 bucks!! Dremel and a sheet of fiberglass and you could do this yourselfWondering if anyone has bought the SRQ Subwoofer Enclosure yet? I like the idea, but I am not a fan of the grille thing.
https://srqcustoms.com/product/ford-bronco-subwoofer-enclosure-with-grille/
The original speakers have that foam gasketing tape around the cone that insulates the moving speaker from the kick panels grill. I would suggest taking the kick panels off and putting some closed cell foam tape (weather stripping) around the outside perimeter of the speaker surround. The rattling/pooping is possibly the speaker surround touching the grill on the kick panels. You could also try just taking off the square grill off the kick panels and see if that makes the noises stop. Good luck.Same here , I think spending $300 on kick panel speakers that sound not as good as the original ones was probably a bad move. Other than that Im happy with the install, one con is that the sub only sounds good when is at high volume. Low volume sounds like rattle of popping.
I just read this again and realized you were talking about the sub rattling. I was referring to the kick panels replacement speakers not sounding good. My mistake.The original speakers have that foam gasketing tape around the cone that insulates the moving speaker from the kick panels grill. I would suggest taking the kick panels off and putting some closed cell foam tape (weather stripping) around the outside perimeter of the speaker surround. The rattling/pooping is possibly the speaker surround touching the grill on the kick panels. You could also try just taking off the square grill off the kick panels and see if that makes the noises stop. Good luck.