Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[Sherminiator]

So I had a couple questions-my system doesn't quite sound right (I blewout my sub and was messing with some settings after I replaced it) so I want to recalibrate the Key200.4 with my Key500.1

On your Key200.4, what settings are you using for Hi pass dipswitches? I currently have kicker speakers in the dash and kickpanels.

I have the kicker bass remote for my 500.1, if that is turned all the way CCW, that would kill any output from the sub during pink noise test? Or should I just remove the input to the 500?

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[DenNut]

I followed the video, plug my harness into the bottom of the head unit, as well as the amp, and then back out to the plug that the factory had connected to the head originally. Unfortunately, I have no sound and the PWR light on the amp is not illuminated. Any idea what I could have done wrong?

 

[Barlos]

I followed the video, plug my harness into the bottom of the head unit, as well as the amp, and then back out to the plug that the factory had connected to the head originally. Unfortunately, I have no sound and the PWR light on the amp is not illuminated. Any idea what I could have done wrong?

Have you checked the fuse on the amp?

 

[DenNut]

Have you checked the fuse on the amp?

I figured it out. I had to flip the first dip switch to the down position. It switched from 12v to something else (I forget what they called it). After that, it worked.

 

[Sherminiator]

I'm not sure if this is been posted or not (I went through the thread at one point in time), but based on my issues with the Key 200.4 and 500.1 Amps, here are some things to watch out for that might trip you up.

On my Key 200.4, I have the Auto turn-on, compression, Kicker EQ and Hi pass dip switches in the on or upper position.

I ran this setup for the pink noise test

1. Reset the amp to default setting (hold the mic button down for 10 seconds - you'll hear a long beep).
2. Turn the amp gains ALL the way down (CCW)
3. Set the head unit EQ (Treble, Bass, Mids) where you WANT it.
4. Play the Kicker pink noise and turn the volume up until you see the LIMITER LED, then back the volume off one click - that's your MAX volume
5. Run the Kicker DSP setup with the pink noise on your max volume setting
6. After setup completes, click the mic button once, pink noise starts again. Now w/ pink noise playing at the SAME volume, turn each gain up until you hit the limiter LED, then back it off a bit.
7. Test the sound and see what you think.

The other thing that isn't mentioned that you need to change the sound settings under settings. Make sure you turn off speed compensated volume, occupancy mode is set to all instead of just driver. After I did this I noticed a huge improvement in bass coming from the kick panels, which seems to be a common complaint. I'm running the suggest kicker speakers from Critchfield and have the Ford sub enclosure with a Kicker RT 8 inch Low Profile sub.

 

[Jeverall]

I'm not sure if this is been posted or not (I went through the thread at one point in time), but based on my issues with the Key 200.4 and 500.1 Amps, here are some things to watch out for that might trip you up.

On my Key 200.4, I have the Auto turn-on, compression, Kicker EQ and Hi pass dip switches in the on or upper position.

I ran this setup for the pink noise test

1. Reset the amp to default setting (hold the mic button down for 10 seconds - you'll hear a long beep).
2. Turn the amp gains ALL the way down (CCW)
3. Set the head unit EQ (Treble, Bass, Mids) where you WANT it.
4. Play the Kicker pink noise and turn the volume up until you see the LIMITER LED, then back the volume off one click - that's your MAX volume
5. Run the Kicker DSP setup with the pink noise on your max volume setting
6. After setup completes, click the mic button once, pink noise starts again. Now w/ pink noise playing at the SAME volume, turn each gain up until you hit the limiter LED, then back it off a bit.
7. Test the sound and see what you think.

The other thing that isn't mentioned that you need to change the sound settings under settings. Make sure you turn off speed compensated volume, occupancy mode is set to all instead of just driver. After I did this I noticed a huge improvement in bass coming from the kick panels, which seems to be a common complaint. I'm running the suggest kicker speakers from Critchfield and have the Ford sub enclosure with a Kicker RT 8 inch Low Profile sub.

Hell yeah! When I finished installing mine I didn’t even mess with the settings because I thought it sounded good enough. The Occupancy and Speed Compensation adjustments kicked it up.
thank you !!!

 

[marjen]

So can the key amp accommodate a setup if i was to put a 6.5 mid woofer in the side footwell and replace the 4” dash speaker with just a tweeter? Would that require additional wiring or anything>

 

[1970AMCAMX]

You would just have to wire in the included crossover box in the kick panel. Should be easy.

 

[marjen]

Can the KEY 500.1 drive 2 subwoofer Drivers?

 

[1970AMCAMX]

Can the KEY 500.1 drive 2 subwoofer Drivers?

Yes

 

[marjen]

Does adding the kicker KEY 200.4 fix the issue with no bass signals going to the rear pods? Or does it still require some reprogramming of the head unit?

 

[1970AMCAMX]

Does adding the kicker KEY 200.4 fix the issue with no bass signals going to the rear pods? Or does it still require some reprogramming of the head unit?

I haven't heard a definite answer on that, rumors that I have heard are that it does do some sort of channel summing using the full range signal from the front channels to fill in the missing base on the back channels.

I am real tempted to run the 200.4 in bi-amp mode and just drive the front speakers off the amp while using the unamplified rear signal to drive the pod speakers in the rear. The only thing that is holding me back from doing this is the possibility that someone will come out with reasonably priced replacement pods for the rear to house 6.5 inch speakers.

I am going to talk to my dealership when I pick up my Bronco (supposed to be built next week) and see if they will flash it for the JBL sound bar even though I'm not going to buy one which should provide full range to the rear.

 

[marjen]

I haven't heard a definite answer on that, rumors that I have heard are that it does do some sort of channel summing using the full range signal from the front channels to fill in the missing base on the back channels.

I am real tempted to run the 200.4 in bi-amp mode and just drive the front speakers off the amp while using the unamplified rear signal to drive the pod speakers in the rear. The only thing that is holding me back from doing this is the possibility that someone will come out with reasonably priced replacement pods for the rear to house 6.5 inch speakers.

I am going to talk to my dealership when I pick up my Bronco (supposed to be built next week) and see if they will flash it for the JBL sound bar even though I'm not going to buy one which should provide full range to the rear.

Hmm ok. Yeah my bronco arrived Friday and is sitting with the dealer while i get sale of my existing car squared away so didnt know if i needed to ask him to do that or not. Wish we had a solid answer.

 

[1970AMCAMX]

I would ask him anyway - can't hurt, worst case if he does it and you are not immediately upgrading your stereo you can either use the fader to not use the rear pods or limit using them until you upgrade or install some cheap bass blockers on the existing speakers.

I think it is worthwhile just to get it done as long as they don't charge an arm and a leg for it.

 

[TXBronco72]

Just placed my order. These guys were awesome to deal with. I chose the following:

• Kit 11-4 (harness plus 17 ft sub amp cable)
• Kicker Key 200.4 (PNPK was out of stock so I found and ordered one on Best Buy's website for $269)
• AudioControl ACM 1.300 mono amp
• AudioControl dash remote
• Kicker KS 4" speakers for the dash (going to wait on kick panel speakers based on everyone's comments that the stock speakers work well with amp install)
• Kicker 10" down firing sub (in my 2D, the rear seats stick up ~5" off the floor when folded down. The sub is 5 5/8" tall, so if anything it should give me a flatter surface across the whole rear)

I bought my Bronco used and the original owner installed the JBL sound bar. I'm going to wait to see how the system sounds before deciding what to do with it. Supposedly it's rated for 100W/channel so we'll see if there's decent improvement.

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