Kicker Key 200.4 Done Correctly

[AZCoyote]

My 200.4 died after 3 weeks the warranty support was horrible so I bought an Audison AP 8.9 and sold the reconditioned 200.4 finally got six weeks later.

The kicker Key amps are cheap price and get what you pay for which is very old tech. Better to buy better stuff on diymobileaudio classifieds IMO or bump the budget.

with the way the harness flogs amp 1, that doesn’t surprise me.

It’s a dsp amp with 40 band EQ and time alignment you don’t have to tune yourself. Old tech or not, that’s a good product design.

Audison is a fantastic product that costs 8x more. It’s versatile, powerful, and takes much more to get working. The kicker works great if you know how to use it. So you are comparing potatoes and caviar.

my hope is people who have the Key wired wrong will change their setup so they get better performance and it lasts longer.

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[23OBX2.7]

My Key was wired fine the auto tune failed. got my Audison for USD 400 new from authorized dealer plus amazing support.

Can get AFC 8.14 for USD 900 right now.

 

[AZCoyote]

My Key was wired fine the auto tune failed. got my Audison for USD 400 new from authorized dealer plus amazing support.

Can get AFC 8.14 for USD 900 right now.

Were you using a plug and play harness?

if you got an Audison 8.9 for $400 you got a great deal. I only see those for $1000 online when available. That is a discontinued model though making it old tech. Ironic.

You can get a Key 200.4 and a Key 500.1 for about $550-600 these days. That path offers up an few advantages. Press a button and each will tune themselves. They are also small and easy to mount. Audison parts are undoubtedly superior but they cost more, are harder to mount, and take much more effort to tune.

The purpose of this thread is to help those who choose the Kicker route. No debate, your Audison is a better product but not easier.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Realitively its not old tech the new ones just have more power and different software interface us auto tune.

Online prices are high for all car audio.

Go to a mom and pop dealer that will cut you a deal to retain there resale rights / volune minimiums. Maybe its was $500 / CAD 750.

I got the AFC price last week and online its nearly double.

I also got the Idata Maestro harness $50, and paid the dealer $75 to connect the amp harness to the idata harness that plugs into OE to derisk it.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Were you using a plug and play harness?

if you got an Audison 8.9 for $400 you got a great deal. I only see those for $1000 online when available. That is a discontinued model though making it old tech. Ironic.

I beleive its still listed in classified for 400.....along with some Hertz C165F shallow 6.5...

 

[AZCoyote]

I beleive its still listed in classified for 400.....along with some Hertz C165F shallow 6.5...

Cool.

Here is a link to the manual for Key 200.4 users seeking more info on bi-amp mode.

https://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/47KEY2004.pdf

 

[Cordycord]

indeed I am. With the Key 200.4 sending power to the rear is a waste of what the amp can do. Bi-amp to the front stage is a magnitude better for volume and sound quality. I’d even argue that the Key is likely throttling output to handle the unsupported load on amp 1. It’s doubtful to me that the front speakers are getting a full 25 watts each when in the 2 ohm config. 15-20 seems likely and my ears tell me the same based on output. With all 200 watts up front and the amp operating in spec, the volume change and quality improvement is dramatic. Just be sure to set gains equally as you raise them to just before the clip.

Cool.

I've got a 2025 Heritage on order (ETA December) and I've been trolling this site and Youtube for ideas. The Key 200.4 seems to be popular, and THIS seems to be the way to wire it.

Question--the Key comes with a mic for tuning the system once everything is set up. But that also means the new subwoofer and 6.5 speakers in back have not yet been equalized with the kicks and dash speakers. Is this done manually on the head unit?

There also seems to be some trickery involved with Forscan. Saw it on a Youtube. EQ needs to be turned off, and there's even a function to turn off the fake engine sounds?!

 

[AZCoyote]

During tuning, you set the fader full front so the pods are silent and you pull the fuse for the subwoofer. This keeps the tuning algorithm happy as it listens to the kicks and dash.

I have forscan. I turned off the fake engine noise. I did not alter EQ since it only changes the rear pods. No need to do that unless you upgrade to pods with 6.5 and amp them. Again that is for those seeking max cabin volume rather than staging. So if you plan to use the Key in bi-amp mode don’t bother with forscan beyond the injected fake exhaust turn off.

 

[Cordycord]

During tuning, you set the fader full front so the pods are silent and you pull the fuse for the subwoofer. This keeps the tuning algorithm happy as it listens to the kicks and dash.

I have forscan. I turned off the fake engine noise. I did not alter EQ since it only changes the rear pods. No need to do that unless you upgrade to pods with 6.5 and amp them. Again that is for those seeking max cabin volume rather than staging. So if you plan to use the Key in bi-amp mode don’t bother with forscan beyond the injected fake exhaust turn off.

Thanks! I was planning on running 6.5 rears with an 8" or 10" under seat unit, unless that's verboten. Input welcome. I'd run the rear pods off the head amp as you recommended, and the connector wring all seems to include a sub connector. The "sound stage" goes out the windows when topless, but I'd like to be able to hear music even on the highway.

 

[AZCoyote]

Thanks! I was planning on running 6.5 rears with an 8" or 10" under seat unit, unless that's verboten. Input welcome. I'd run the rear pods off the head amp as you recommended, and the connector wring all seems to include a sub connector. The "sound stage" goes out the windows when topless, but I'd like to be able to hear music even on the highway.

Nothing is verboten. It’s your ride! Do it the way that makes you happy each time you turn on the ignition and crank tunes!

My post is really for people who have the Key already or are certain they are buying it. Running as wired with 3rd party harnesses is missing a huge improvement to volume and sound quality while also beating on the amp. (echo, echo, echo, ec….)

If you plan to run the rear pods off the head unit, you won’t get much from upgrading the speakers there. You could skip that unless maximum volume is your goal. In that case you want those pods amplified. You will then want to do the forscan change for EQ.

Depending on what sound system you’re starting with, there are plenty of upgrades listed in the forum ranging from just changing out the 6.5 OEM sub to a 6.75 kicker, to using a B&O box with an eight, to using a JL Stealth box (pricey AF), to a 3d printed box and sub in OEM location(my choice), to mounting a box to the rear door with a 10 or 12, and more. How you plan to use it and how much space you want to keep or lose factors.

If maximum volume is your first concern, you may benefit from a multichannel DSP amp (8-12) and running the upgraded pods. Assuming money isn’t a primary deciding factor, If you decide to do that., I would look for a minimum 8 channel amp, send 2 channels to dash, bridge 2 sets of channels to send to the kicks, then bridge the final 2 channels for a sub at 4 ohms and keep pods on HU. Or with a 12 channel, 2 to dash, 2 bridged set to kicks (4), 2 channels to pods, then two bridge sets (4) to a dual voicecoil sub. It’s about getting the most from what you have in my opinion

This is the best“money doesn’t matter” option IMO.
https://audison.com/product/af-m12-14-bit/

All of that said, once I’m done with my sub upgrade, I feel really confident what I have running now would probably satisfy 95% of Bronco owners who pretty much just want…

1. Easy
2. Loud
3. Sounds Good.
4. Price

Obviously we each put those in different orders of importance. Mine is 3, 4, 2, 1

Depending on the day…

 

[Cordycord]

Nothing is verboten. It’s your ride! Do it the way that makes you happy each time you turn on the ignition and crank tunes!

My post is really for people who have the Key already or are certain they are buying it. Running as wired with 3rd party harnesses is missing a huge improvement to volume and sound quality while also beating on the amp. (echo, echo, echo, ec….)

If you plan to run the rear pods off the head unit, you won’t get much from upgrading the speakers there. You could skip that unless maximum volume is your goal. In that case you want those pods amplified. You will then want to do the forscan change for EQ.

Depending on what sound system you’re starting with, there are plenty of upgrades listed in the forum ranging from just changing out the 6.5 OEM sub to a 6.75 kicker, to using a B&O box with an eight, to using a JL Stealth box (pricey AF), to a 3d printed box and sub in OEM location(my choice), to mounting a box to the rear door with a 10 or 12, and more. How you plan to use it and how much space you want to keep or lose factors.

If maximum volume is your first concern, you may benefit from a multichannel DSP amp (8-12) and running the upgraded pods. Assuming money isn’t a primary deciding factor, If you decide to do that., I would look for a minimum 8 channel amp, send 2 channels to dash, bridge 2 sets of channels to send to the kicks, then bridge the final 2 channels for a sub at 4 ohms and keep pods on HU. Or with a 12 channel, 2 to dash, 2 bridged set to kicks (4), 2 channels to pods, then two bridge sets (4) to a dual voicecoil sub. It’s about getting the most from what you have in my opinion

This is the best“money doesn’t matter” option IMO.
https://audison.com/product/af-m12-14-bit/

All of that said, once I’m done with my sub upgrade, I feel really confident what I have running now would probably satisfy 95% of Bronco owners who pretty much just want…

1. Easy
2. Loud
3. Sounds Good.
4. Price

Obviously we each put those in different orders of importance. Mine is 3, 4, 2, 1

Depending on the day…

Thanks again. There's too much information floating around and the goal is 3421 for my beach Bronco. Given 6.5" kicks, 4" dash, and 6.5" pods, I don't think anything bigger than a 10" sub is warranted.

Also, the FIRST thing I've already bought for the "sound system" is sound deadening material. I plain on having a field day with that stuff. The pods will get that and Dacron fluff as well.

 

[AZCoyote]

Thanks again. There's too much information floating around and the goal is 3421 for my beach Bronco. Given 6.5" kicks, 4" dash, and 6.5" pods, I don't think anything bigger than a 10" sub is warranted.

Also, the FIRST thing I've already bought for the "sound system" is sound deadening material. I plain on having a field day with that stuff. The pods will get that and Dacron fluff as well.

A 10” sub can slam when done right. If you want to get the most from that and don’t care about space or stealth, a down firing box might be good for you. Elite audio makes a nice looking box that attaches to the rear door and has a full cubic foot of space. That one can do a 10 or 12 and should absolutely slam.

If you know about sound deadening material, you’re probably ahead of many people. Be sure to use plenty behind the kick panel and try to seal off all the holes and gaps in that space behind it. Then use a foam ring around the front of the driver so that it blocks the rear wave from the front. That makes a huge difference in how much midbass you get. Driver selection will matter too of course.

I can go either direction on the use of poly fill. I’ve done it. Most of the times a smaller sub or bigger box would’ve been a better answer. I will be putting pad style poly in my 3d printed box as well as sound deadening. Plastic boxes have a different resonance than wood. It’s above the frequencies where the amp is actually operating, but it’s good to remove them where you can. Little things add up.

I don’t advocate the use of loose poly fill just cause it’s messy and doesn’t offer any improvement over the pad version.

 

[AZCoyote]

This doesn’t talk about the horrors of abusing a class D 4 ohm amp by running it at 2 ohms but it very much explains the reason the bi-amp option is the ideal usage of a Key 200. Note the 7:00 mark dialog.

 

[MOBRONCO]

You are confusing nominal impedance with actual impedance. Nominal is a characteristic of DC resistance which has loose correlation with actual inductive speaker loads.

As long as the dash speakers have an inline capacitor at the lower frequencies the amp will basically only see the kick panel speakers on the circuit. Driving actual loads a kick panel that isn’t a coax will see impedance rise as the frequency rises as well making the overall reactive load on the amp in the normal operating range of the amp.

With that said, the sound will of course be better with the amp in bi-amp mode as the crossovers will be more optimized and the DSP can have more control.

 

[AZCoyote]

You are confusing nominal impedance with actual impedance. Nominal is a characteristic of DC resistance which has loose correlation with actual inductive speaker loads.

As long as the dash speakers have an inline capacitor at the lower frequencies the amp will basically only see the kick panel speakers on the circuit. Driving actual loads a kick panel that isn’t a coax will see impedance rise as the frequency rises as well making the overall reactive load on the amp in the normal operating range of the amp.

With that said, the sound will of course be better with the amp in bi-amp mode as the crossovers will be more optimized and the DSP can have more control.

Sure. We can electrical geek if we must.

Resistance can vary. However, there’s no argument that wired as sold on the third-party harnesses they are sending a 2 ohm load to the amp.

If Ohm rating didn’t matter it would not be listed. The times the load is within spec aren’t the issue obviously. The times when resistance is high is absolutely what matters. Wired like they are bought, the harnesses are overloading every Kicker 200 that is in a Bronco and sending a 2 ohm load. That’s not theoretical. That is observable fact.

The amplifier gets crazy hot, performs mediocre, and for some has failed. Every person who complains that the auto tune won’t work should realize that the amp is working hard to stay alive. That’s the most likely reason people have had sub-optimal experiences with this amp.

Bi-amp is the way. I guarantee anyone who makes the change will be thankful they did. It’s like buying a brand new amp with twice the power. The change is that dramatic.

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