Keep It Like New

[CalvinT]

I did a Google search for "auto detailing supplies Phoenix" and got a number of hits. One supplies the company that did my ceramic coat. Prices are cheaper than auto parts stores.

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[CBNash]

I know others have replied in support of this post by Brian, and I could not agree more with it and the responses as well!! THIS, is the real appeal and beauty of the Bronco, truly.

I'm 52. The Bronco is my "jeep" like vehicle (my 20th overall). Always went for the shiny luxury stuff. Lexus, Mercedes, several GTI's, etc. Not knocking any of them, they were/are all great and treated me well (I do take care of my stuff). The car my Bronco replaced was a pristine MB 2014 E350 sedan. Many in my life couldn't believe I gave it up for a Ford Bronco.

Hands down, no debate about it, after 2 years and nearly 25k miles, my Bronco is 100% my all-time favorite vehicle I have ever owned. It is the most enjoyable, the most entertaining, and I simply adore the hell out of it. Not necessarily because of what it is, but because of what it is NOT, and what that freedom of it NOT being a rattle-free ultra fast super smooth luxury sedan. It rattles. It jiggles. It wiggles. The front mud flap is broken from an ice mound I went over this past winter. The stereo (even with the upgraded B&O system) sometimes sounds like it came out of an 80's F-150. I LOVE all of that! Just today, after a week of driving with the rear windows out, I took the electric leaf blower and blew out the dust from the dash board. I told my wife that I LOVE a vehicle that is meant to have as much dust/pollen in it, as on it!

That being said - I do take care of my things. And mine still looks brand new (except the broken mud flap). Here is what I did/do:

1) Clay bar detail it right away. I used some home DIY "ceramic" coating called "Black Ice" two years ago. The paint is still smooth as silk, nothing really sticks to it.

2) Get the front hood bug guard that has the lip/hump in it. Will help deflect bug hits via changing the aerodynamics over the hood.

3) Mud flaps for sure. Whatever kind you want, just want something to take the debris hit that will come off the tires instead of it being sent up the side of your car. I have 0% scratches / dings on mine. I would recommend the rear flaps too. While no real damage prevention with them, but does help to keep rocks from being flung towards the cars behind you a bit.

4) If you're a soft top - a bottle of the Meguires plastic/vinyl cleaner/polish will keep the soft top windows looking new and perfectly clear. Also great for the front grill and headlights. Maybe two, three times a year. Takes 10 minutes.


On the interior:

1) I do use the bottle of leather/vinyl cleaner from Ford. I've found that it works well and doesn't leave a sheen. I also use the 303 protectant on the dash and top of the doors. I've found it really helps to bring out the deep color (roast interior) and doesn't leave a greasy film. The plastics like it, brings out the darkness of the blacks without looking like a can of ArmorAll exploded in the car.

2) Just have one of those yellow microfiber rags from Costco in the glove box. Very handy to wipe it down with.

3) Window haze (especially the inside of the windshield) - a bottle of isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle with that yellow rag in the glove box, will keep the glass 100% clear and streak free. Also great to wipe the infotainment screen with and the gauge cluster screen. DON'T soak it, be smart with it, certainly not meant for the leathers/vinyls. Just the glass.

Otherwise, enjoy!!!

This is amazing information!!! Thank you Azi much!! Shockingly, I have follow up questions....
Exterior -
1. when you say to clay bar detail right away.... you mean like as soon as I get it? Also what is clay bar detailing?? Can you explain like I'm 7? And what is clay bar?
2. When you say bug guard with the bump.... is this like an Aeroskin 2 hood guard?

Interior
1. What are your thoughts on ppf? On high touch areas, not a dash wrap.
2. How about a gorilla glass screen protector on the infotainment system?

Again thank you soooooo much for taking the time to write all of that (I read every word), and being willing to help me out!

 

[29AGAIN]

Any recommendations on grab handles? I'm not big on the paracord ones and haven't found any metal ones i really like

I have HSP grab handles - Hunter Safety Products. A very classy upgrade from the usual paracord. Currently showing out of stock, but have been in and out of stock in the past. Suggest you try to call the company to find out what’s going.

 

[bravely]

Hey all,

New Bronco comes in soon (in theory). I want to keep it pristine for as long as possible.

What are your 'must have's? Sill protector, cargo protector, dash protector, center console protector, etc. (links appreciated)

Mine will be a shadow black with black vinyl interior, so sleek and simple is my vibe.

What do you wish you had done differently? What are you happy that you did do? What did you do that wasn't needed?

i did a whole body film

 

[bravely]

This is amazing information!!! Thank you Azi much!! Shockingly, I have follow up questions....
Exterior -
1. when you say to clay bar detail right away.... you mean like as soon as I get it? Also what is clay bar detailing?? Can you explain like I'm 7? And what is clay bar?
2. When you say bug guard with the bump.... is this like an Aeroskin 2 hood guard?

Interior
1. What are your thoughts on ppf? On high touch areas, not a dash wrap.
2. How about a gorilla glass screen protector on the infotainment system?

Again thank you soooooo much for taking the time to write all of that (I read every word), and being willing to help me out!

ppf 3 years old - no scratches

 

[GoHawks63]

TO add on and concur with what others have said. I added mud flaps, sill protectors, floor and cargo liners, but the biggest, best and admittedly the most expensive thing I did was PPF the whole vehicle (except the top obviously), including the grille and headlights.

Ceramic is nice and all that, but it is a sealant. Essentially a much more durable wax. It does nothing to protect it from stone chips and scratches. ESPECIALLY on a black car where micro scratches are much more visible. My other two cars are black. They've been hand washed for as long as I have owned them, never been in the snow and one of them has only been caught in the rain a couple of times. Softest microfiber towels I can get, but you can still see fine micro scratches if you look close up. Especially on my Shadow Black Mustang.

I had my Bronco PPF'd as soon as I bought it. In a year and a half of ownership (13K miles) a few trail rides (with branches brushing up against it) and many road trips, I don't have one single stone chip or scratch on the car. What's also nice about it is I don't have to be as OCD about it. I have even used those foam brushes at the self-serve car washes during the winter months. No visible surface scratches. Also, some of the better films have ceramic coating on them.

Now, a full body PPF can be very expensive, upwards of $4K-$5K depending on where you live and the quality of the installation. If a full body wrap is too expensive, I would minimally have the film applied to the front clip (hood, fenders, A-pillars, windshield header) and the rocker panels.

Congrats and best of luck with your new Bronco.

 

[CBNash]

I have HSP grab handles - Hunter Safety Products. A very classy upgrade from the usual paracord. Currently showing out of stock, but have been in and out of stock in the past. Suggest you try to call the company to find out what’s going.

Awesome! Yeah I like those better than the paracord ones!

 

[GoHawks63]

Yeah, super easy to fit and no drilling required. I bought some Weathertec ones before I got the IAG because they were a big name I recognized. Weathertec claim no drilling, but, how should I put this? - a complete lie as you need to drill through the fender well liner.
When I complained to them (and returned the product) they had no explanation for why they claimed no drill!
Also, their front ones do not remotely follow the lines of the Bronco. Still a massive gap - they look like you just bought some generic ones from a gas station.

I purchased the Weather Techs and I agree with you that the front ones were like a generic flap. Kind of ugly and the coverage wasn't great. They have since revised the front ones and the fit is much better. I called them and given that it was less than a year since I ordered the original set, they gave me a small discount.

Here are pictures. There is an indent in them, and they claim they did it to accommodate the various running boards and rock rails that are out there.

I forgot to mention that I also added the rubber liner for the rear seatbacks that have carpeting on them (I have a WildTrak).

 

[CBNash]

I have HSP grab handles - Hunter Safety Products. A very classy upgrade from the usual paracord. Currently showing out of stock, but have been in and out of stock in the past. Suggest you try to call the company to find out what’s going.

Awesome! I definitely like these better than the paracord. Thanks so much!

 

[CBNash]

I purchased the Weather Techs and I agree with you that the front ones were like a generic flap. Kind of ugly and the coverage wasn't great. They have since revised the front ones and the fit is much better. I called them and given that it was less than a year since I ordered the original set, they gave me a small discount.

Here are pictures. There is an indent in them, and they claim they did it to accommodate the various running boards and rock rails that are out there.

I forgot to mention that I also added the rubber liner for the rear seatbacks that have carpeting on them (I have a WildTrak).

Thanks for the rec and notes. I got runner boards that will go right on the factory rock rails, so thanks for the heads up!

 

[Dral97]

I do a lot of hauling stuff in the cargo area in mine. It's scratched up pretty good. I don't know if you can find something to put on the sides and what not. If you haul a lot and want to keep it as showroom as possible, I'd recommend that. As brought up on the forums a lot, the plastic they used in the interior scratches if you just look at it the wrong way.

I'm pretty particular about keeping my vehicles as nice as possible so I get it, but I usually have an auto that I designate as my DD/workhorse. That's currently my bronco. When I make that designation in my mind, caring about scratches and other stuff like that goes out the window. I have protectors on the back of the rear seats, but I didn't bother with anything on the sides (not even sure what to use).

 

[Lifeliberty]

Thanks for the rec and notes. I got runner boards that will go right on the factory rock rails, so thanks for the heads up!

Fyi, beware of flaps that will not fit with oem rock rails

 

[Mirage]

Stock???? Nothing I own stays stock!

 

[MilesTeg]

This is amazing information!!! Thank you Azi much!! Shockingly, I have follow up questions....
Exterior -
1. when you say to clay bar detail right away.... you mean like as soon as I get it? Also what is clay bar detailing?? Can you explain like I'm 7? And what is clay bar?

Claying paint is literally.. rubbing clay on it. NOT just any old clay, but clay meant for that purpose. Even if you scrub your paint with a wash mitt thoroughly, it will not remove all the dirt because some will bond to the paint and/or embed in the paint.

The clay grabs the dirt and can pull it off/out of the paint.

You can tell if you need to clay by taking a plastic baggie, putting your fingers in it, and running it over the paint. The baggie helps you feel all the little bumps that are the bonded contaminants.

Even a brand new car from the factory can have a bunch of crap already on it as new cars work their way through a lot of industrial environments with lots of crap that likes to stick to the paint.

I highly suggest NOT using real clay. Real clay takes a long time and it's easier to screw up and scratch your paint. If you don't lube the paint well, you'll mar it. If you drop real clay, the clay is ruined. It's expensive and basically one use.

There is "synthetic clay". Synthetic clay is much faster -- you basically wash the car with the clay mitt/pad/whatever after first doing a normal wash. You use lots of soapy/foamy water as the lube. If you drop the synthetic clay, you just rinse it off well and continue. You can reuse synthetic clay many times before it's done. I use this, as needed:

https://www.griotsgarage.com/brilliant-finish-synthetic-clay/

All that said, real clay is still useful for really badly contaminated paint.

 

[CalvinT]

I tried synthetic clay on my Subaru, wasn't happy. I can't remember why as that was about four years ago. But then many people seem to like it as it's still on the market, so I may have done something wrong. It does behave differentlly than a clay bar.

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