KBD fender flares

[GToddC5]

Interested to hear more about these. Add me to the 'wish they were a little wider' group but withholding judgement until I see more.

So for my stock Badlands setup, the OEM flares could stand to be narrower IMO. I think these will be perfect for non-sas people that want just a little poke. Also perfect for people that want some poke without resorting to zero offset wheels. It's another one of those "can't make everyone happy" situations. I'm sure if they get a warm and fuzzy after this initial release, they can decide if a wider option is worth it for them to manufacture, but for now, I think this design has a great old-school look that they were obviously shooting for.

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[nwGTS]

Anyone receive theirs yet? ETA on my set is this Friday. I'm trying to get instructions sent so I can be poised and ready when the truck drops them off.

 

[Sewie]

I'm sure if they get a warm and fuzzy after this initial release, they can decide if a wider option is worth it for them to manufacture, but for now, I think this design has a great old-school look that they were obviously shooting for.

They make a wider set (4.5") for the EB, so I could see them doing the same for the 6G at some point.

 

[ThaSunn]

For anyone that has already ordered....Do you guys plan on color matching to the body? Really interested how that would turn out and how it would compare to the Advanced fiberglass ones. If it remotely achieves a similar look, would be much cheaper and easier.

 

[JonDW29]

So for my stock Badlands setup, the OEM flares could stand to be narrower IMO. I think these will be perfect for non-sas people that want just a little poke. Also perfect for people that want some poke without resorting to zero offset wheels. It's another one of those "can't make everyone happy" situations. I'm sure if they get a warm and fuzzy after this initial release, they can decide if a wider option is worth it for them to manufacture, but for now, I think this design has a great old-school look that they were obviously shooting for.

100%. I think this is a great option and I like the look. A lot. Just need to make sure it makes sense for me.

 

[71to21-2DR]

I would definitely buy these if they were a little wider and angled down a bit to hide that round flare mount underneath
The design style is awesome but I do agree it needs to be more of a matte finish

 

[GToddC5]

For anyone that has already ordered....Do you guys plan on color matching to the body? Really interested how that would turn out and how it would compare to the Advanced fiberglass ones. If it remotely achieves a similar look, would be much cheaper and easier.

If I do color match, it will be later on after I see it on someone else's CO Bronco. So far any break from the CO paint with black looks best IMO. After I install I might try a photochop to fake it. However, my instinct is telling me to leave them black because of the constant barrage our flares take from road/off-road debris.

 

[nwGTS]

For anyone that has already ordered....Do you guys plan on color matching to the body? Really interested how that would turn out and how it would compare to the Advanced fiberglass ones. If it remotely achieves a similar look, would be much cheaper and easier.

On top of that, you could run color matched in the summer and R&R to the OEM flares during the winter for those in 4 season climates. Let the plastic ones get banged up. Also, an economic option for those of us who are addicted to modding.

 

[ThaSunn]

If I do color match, it will be later on after I see it on someone else's CO Bronco. So far any break from the CO paint with black looks best IMO. After I install I might try a photochop to fake it. However, my instinct is telling me to leave them black because of the constant barrage our flares take from road/off-road debris.

Cool man...i'm sure you'll keep us posted. I dont necessarily have a problem with black either other than they do look shiny and if so out of place.

 

[BroncoBilly22]

Let's see these on a Bronco with 37's. I'll wait to see if the come out with a wider option for more coverage. I do like their square shape that resembles the Everglades Edition. I would also like to see a wider fender that incorporates a low profile mud/stone shield on the front wheels. Plenty of Mud guards out there but I can decide which one looks best with the fender flares.

 

[Moto26]

If I do color match, it will be later on after I see it on someone else's CO Bronco. So far any break from the CO paint with black looks best IMO. After I install I might try a photochop to fake it. However, my instinct is telling me to leave them black because of the constant barrage our flares take from road/off-road debris.

Cool man...i'm sure you'll keep us posted. I dont necessarily have a problem with black either other than they do look shiny and if so out of place.

Maybe put some stealth PPF on the flares? Won’t be so shiny, and won’t get as beat up?

 

[fields_day]

For anyone that has already ordered....Do you guys plan on color matching to the body? Really interested how that would turn out and how it would compare to the Advanced fiberglass ones. If it remotely achieves a similar look, would be much cheaper and easier.

I ordered these yesterday. I think I will eventually color match mine but want to see what they look like first. I have -12 wheels so they'll stick out a lot compared to the 1.5-2" from my sasquatch flares.

 

[ThaSunn]

I ordered these yesterday. I think I will eventually color match mine but want to see what they look like first. I have -12 wheels so they'll stick out a lot compared to the 1.5-2" from my sasquatch flares.

Nice man....please follow up with pics!

 

[OddBall88]

well see if any other people have had them ship yet? Still waiting for any updates on my order currently.

 

[Ground_zero298]

Instructions for what I used and how I did it.

Spd down pipes install

First if you have a dirty underside this won’t be a fun install. Make sure it’s clean and protect your eyes and ear holes. I used a leaf blower to clean the tops of the plates real quick.

Second we’re cutting the oem exhaust in half.

Third, you may have just lost your warranty.

If you’re good with that, here’s how I did it.

First jack divers side up and remove the tire. then pull both fender liners out

Remove all 4 o2 sensors.
22mm wrench for the o2 sensors. 4 total, 2 on each side. Use a rubber mallet and tap to loosen. 1 tap should do it. Has enough slack to spin them out with out unhooking.

The sensors with the blue wire sheath (lowers) need to be switched. One has a long cord, the other a short. Just unplug them and switch sides. Uppers (black sheath) stay where they’re at. You can switch them after you get the oem out. Will have more room. The tab is on the end facing you. Push down with some tension and you should hear a slight click. Pull it out after that.

Next break loose the flange bolts on the turbos. 15mm. They are not that tight. I used a small ratchet with a long 15mm then a short 15mm.

Where the exhaust bolt together in the middle is the next point. Loosen both of those. 15mm. They may be tight and need some spray to help. On the pressed in studs will be some thin metal gaskets. Pry those those off the studs and save them. Easy to remove once that pipe out. Don’t forget. You can barley notice them.

Then we have the mid clamp at the Y. That is a 16mm. Take the goofy nut all the way off, then tap down on the top of it until it starts coming out. You can finish unscrewing it by hand after you get it to move. Clamp has metal tabs around it. Lay those back then pry the clamp off.

After you’ve successfully have gotten all this loose we’re gonna cut the oem exhaust under the cats. It’s pretty thick. I started with a sawzall but my blades were shot. Ended up using a cordless angle grinder. For the grinder you need to unhook everything so you can manipulate it around as you cut. Grinder went through it like nothing. Make sure to keep your face out of the blades path. I didn’t get any binding, but shit happens. Sawzall you can leave it with the loose bolts to cut. I spent 10 minutes playing Tetris to get it out uncut. Wasn’t happening.

When you separate the pipe from the turbo there is a donut gasket. Be sure it goes back on the turbo. Both sides.

Cut where I did in the picture. Everything will come out after that.

Go ahead and remove all the loose fasteners and pull the oem stuff out. Remember to get the thin gaskets off the studs from the mid pipe. Mine had 3 of them.

For the install your going to make sure you swapped the blue wire o2 sensors. If you didn’t you’ll remember on the drivers side. Center section goes in first, one with the 2 straight pegs on it. Spray the pegs and the rubber holders with some lube. Shove that all the way back.

Next you can put both cats up in there. Put them on the threads then thread the nuts on by hand leaving some wiggle. Make sure the donuts are back in.

Bolt the center section back the the original exhaust leaving it loose. Make sure to put those gaskets on first. The new bolts it comes with will be 15mm nut with a 17mm bolt

You can pry the pipe you put in with the pegs on it closer to the engine now to make sure the cats fully seat in the flanges.

Then put the 2 new clamps on. Those are 13mm. Make sure they close almost all the way. And make sure they seat. If you can see a gap between the 2 pieces of pipe your not in the hole.

Back to the turbos. Run those bolts tight but not I can’t turn it anymore tight. Bout as tight as you remember breaking them loose.
Won’t be able to use a ratchet on the back side. To tight. Will have to grab a wrench and play the 1/8 turn at a time game.

O2 sensors are next. Spin those back in and tighten them up. Couple bumps with the hammer just like breaking them loose. If you didn’t switch the blue ones out, you’ll remember when you get to the drivers side one

Then tighten up the mid section.

Go back and check all the steps.

Break in is idle for 10 minutes then 2500 for 2 minutes. let engine cool. Then 5 easy miles. No playing.

I set my timer for 10 minutes then started putting the truck back together. After 10 I got in and held it at 2500 rpm for 2 minutes, then 8 easy miles.

Put the fender liners back in and the tire back on.

I have the dv8 liners which I
modded with thumb screws. You may have to pull both front tires to get the liners out. I can get both mine out with the tires on.

Jacking the drivers side up gives you enough room to roll around under the truck.

There may be another method for this, might even be instructions somewhere. I’d rather just trouble shoot it as I go with what I have to work with.

Think total install time was around 2 hours. Biggest hassle was cutting the oem pipes. Rest of it wasn’t that bad. Just normal wrenching.

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