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HOSS 3.0 Lift options?

ronnyek

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The instructions say to pull top control arm out and undo axle nut to give you room to lean the knuckle down so you can get shock assembly out.

If you instead install upper control arm first then remove the inner lower control arm attachment points, it's much easier to put the shock assembly in, bolt it into lower control arm and jack the inner control arm up to align bolt holes on frame and lca.

Rocking the knuckle down even with axle nut removed, there really just isn't enough room to work.

Also axle nuts along with many of the nuts and bolts used in front suspension are noted as single use in fords service manual. I reused stock hardware except for axle nut because simply taking axle nut off marred the threads a bit on cv axle.

If you get the kit, dont mess with pulling axle nut, take off lower control arms inner bolts. Mark position of the alignment adjustments of the inner bolts so you can get alignment close and then get her aligned as soon as possible after everything is said and done.

I'd also recommend printing the instructions from the PDF on their website. The ones that came in box were black and white and some of the steps weren't super clear to me.

Front end torque specs for all the diff joints can be found in fsm, and in some posts here. (Rc just has general specs like for this size hardware torque to this spec)
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ronnyek

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If you decide to take it on, I'd also recommend getting some rust treatment liquid you can "paint" on bare metal. Something that impregnates and provides rust protection. I don't know the name of the stuff I used, but it treats rust and leaves like an oxide layer on the surface to protect against future rust.

The only place you should need that should be where you cut factory bash plate for clearance for front diff support.

I'm just particular and would prefer to try and avoid leaving something bare and having that particular bash plate from starting to develop cancer.
 

adamruiz2001

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The instructions say to pull top control arm out and undo axle nut to give you room to lean the knuckle down so you can get shock assembly out.

If you instead install upper control arm first then remove the inner lower control arm attachment points, it's much easier to put the shock assembly in, bolt it into lower control arm and jack the inner control arm up to align bolt holes on frame and lca.

Rocking the knuckle down even with axle nut removed, there really just isn't enough room to work.

Also axle nuts along with many of the nuts and bolts used in front suspension are noted as single use in fords service manual. I reused stock hardware except for axle nut because simply taking axle nut off marred the threads a bit on cv axle.

If you get the kit, dont mess with pulling axle nut, take off lower control arms inner bolts. Mark position of the alignment adjustments of the inner bolts so you can get alignment close and then get her aligned as soon as possible after everything is said and done.

I'd also recommend printing the instructions from the PDF on their website. The ones that came in box were black and white and some of the steps weren't super clear to me.

Front end torque specs for all the diff joints can be found in fsm, and in some posts here. (Rc just has general specs like for this size hardware torque to this spec)
Thank you!
 

derichio02

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Anyone have these kits on with Mudflaps lol. I want to keep my Rek Gen front mudflaps lol
 

Bryced15

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Question for everyone that has lifted their hoss 3.0. I did RPG 2.25 all the way around. Got it aligned immediately. I feel like even after the alignment that the front looks toe in. Wondering if this is normal after lifting it? Here are some pictures and my alignment specs.

2EA0AED4-DBB7-4C34-BEC4-CB1443ACC97A.jpeg


AB7AFE43-3100-476A-9EDC-59896AD09F2A.jpeg


110D3E94-39DD-41AD-89A3-F628D6BB1B55.jpeg


A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255.jpeg
 

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According to your sheet you at a tad past 0 toe
 

adamruiz2001

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It's hard to tell by the pictures, but with that said, the pics look fine to me, but maybe it's me.
 

derichio02

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Carfanatic

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Yeah just do the zone. Or rpg.
 

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Question for everyone that has lifted their hoss 3.0. I did RPG 2.25 all the way around. Got it aligned immediately. I feel like even after the alignment that the front looks toe in. Wondering if this is normal after lifting it? Here are some pictures and my alignment specs.

Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255


Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255


Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255


Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255
Your toe is right in spec at a total of +.18. If youre actually referring to the camber, then yes it is actually at the higher end of the positive side of the allowable window. If that’s as close to zero camber your shop can get it, then you might need shorter upper A arms. I assume that’s why a lot of the lifts come with upper arms, that they’re made a bit shorter for this reason??
The only other answer would be lower control arm eccentric bolts that have a bigger operating window than the stock bolts but I don’t see any on the aftermarket yet. SPC sells some but they claim the “same adjustment range” as factory. You need to inquire about the aftermarket upper A arms.
 

derichio02

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Question for everyone that has lifted their hoss 3.0. I did RPG 2.25 all the way around. Got it aligned immediately. I feel like even after the alignment that the front looks toe in. Wondering if this is normal after lifting it? Here are some pictures and my alignment specs.

Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255


Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255


Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255


Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? A789C59B-0373-43A2-8934-ADBC41471255
Here are factory specs for you to reference.
Ford Bronco HOSS 3.0 Lift options? IMG_1812
 

adamruiz2001

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Bronco1010

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I just spoke with a rep from Zone the other day and zone is now releasing a 2.25" collar/spacer lift with control arms for around $700. Part number is zonf120

I ordered one over the phone with them and should be receiving it soon.
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