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Considering a DSP / LOC

Brian_B

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So in my piecemeal audio upgrade journey... I have the standard radio package - non-B&O

I've got Morel Tempo Ultra 4" in the dash, and 6.5" in the rear pods. I've got Infinity REF607 6.5" component in the kick (woofer only on crossover, no tweeter). I've got a Kicker 8" sub in the stock enclosure, sealed. Powering it all is a 5-channel Kenwood X802.5

Currently, I have the dash speakers powered by the OEM amp, the Kicks on CH A, the rear pods on CH B, and the sub on Sub.

It sounds good, but I'm missing something - I'm constantly fiddling with this thing. I will get it tweaked to where I like it, then a few songs later I think - no, something's wrong again. So maybe it's timing or tuning, and I'm thinking possibly a LOC or DSP may help? When I have it dialed it - it sounds great - even on the highway with the top off. Then two or three songs later, it just won't quite gel correctly and I'll start fiddling all over again.

Most everything is installed with kilamat behind it. The dash speakers aren't sealed up (I had to rig some adapters, it's not clean right now) - but I don't know how much that affects those in the first place given their location.

I'm pretty sure it's not my speakers now. I don't really suspect my amp - it doesn't have a whole lot of configuration available with it other than a selectable fixed filter option and basic gain settings. I'm not opposed to upgrading it if that's the root cause, but part of the reason I went this direction was that it fit inside the dash and I didn't have to mount it on the floor or under the center console - so if I did go that way staying inside the dash would be important (otherwise I would have went up to 100W per channel).

Right now I'm just exploring options, I don't really have a budget set. I've already thrown a lot of time and money at this, and my trim panels are showing the scars haha.

Any recommendations or suggestions?
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404

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So in my piecemeal audio upgrade journey... I have the standard radio package - non-B&O

I've got Morel Tempo Ultra 4" in the dash, and 6.5" in the rear pods. I've got Infinity REF607 6.5" component in the kick (woofer only on crossover, no tweeter). I've got a Kicker 8" sub in the stock enclosure, sealed. Powering it all is a 5-channel Kenwood X802.5

Currently, I have the dash speakers powered by the OEM amp, the Kicks on CH A, the rear pods on CH B, and the sub on Sub.

It sounds good, but I'm missing something - I'm constantly fiddling with this thing. I will get it tweaked to where I like it, then a few songs later I think - no, something's wrong again. So maybe it's timing or tuning, and I'm thinking possibly a LOC or DSP may help? When I have it dialed it - it sounds great - even on the highway with the top off. Then two or three songs later, it just won't quite gel correctly and I'll start fiddling all over again.

Most everything is installed with kilamat behind it. The dash speakers aren't sealed up (I had to rig some adapters, it's not clean right now) - but I don't know how much that affects those in the first place given their location.

I'm pretty sure it's not my speakers now. I don't really suspect my amp - it doesn't have a whole lot of configuration available with it other than a selectable fixed filter option and basic gain settings. I'm not opposed to upgrading it if that's the root cause, but part of the reason I went this direction was that it fit inside the dash and I didn't have to mount it on the floor or under the center console - so if I did go that way staying inside the dash would be important (otherwise I would have went up to 100W per channel).

Right now I'm just exploring options, I don't really have a budget set. I've already thrown a lot of time and money at this, and my trim panels are showing the scars haha.

Any recommendations or suggestions?
Not budget friendly but the Audison AF-C8.14 is small, has built in dsp and 8 x 65W at 4Ω. I run two channels for dash, 2 bridged channels to each kick 6 1/2 and two for the rears. It does well. You can get a remote knob that can adjust settings such as dsp preset, sub level etc. It can autotune, but so far I’ve not liked its tunes. I have an umik1 and use rew. I’ve had it for 6 months and I’m still tweaking lol. But it’s pricey…
 
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Brian_B

Brian_B

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Not budget friendly but the Audison AF-C8.14 is small, has built in dsp and 8 x 65W at 4Ω. I run two channels for dash, 2 bridged channels to each kick 6 1/2 and two for the rears. It does well. You can get a remote knob that can adjust settings such as dsp preset, sub level etc. It can autotune, but so far I’ve not liked its tunes. I have an umik1 and use rew. I’ve had it for 6 months and I’m still tweaking lol. But it’s pricey…
That is an option, and honestly isn’t too much more than some of the DSPs I was looking at
 

B22-2023

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That is an option, and honestly isn’t too much more than some of the DSPs I was looking at
DSP or some kind of crossover scheme would be the next logical step. I have your setup more or less in a soft top standard radio and the JL DSP and it’s good. Plenty of bass/power in my kicks seems to make a difference on long highway drives when the back is loaded.
 
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Brian_B

Brian_B

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DSP or some kind of crossover scheme would be the next logical step. I have your setup more or less in a soft top standard radio and the JL DSP and it’s good. Plenty of bass/power in my kicks seems to make a difference on long highway drives when the back is loaded.
JL was one of the ones I was looking at - how hard to configure?
 

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FreddieLee

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The best advice that anyone could give you regarding DSP is to download the software, play with it, and go with the one that is the most intuitive and/or makes the most sense to you.

Outside of that, without knowing anything about your existing integration, it's difficult to diagnose your system.
 
 





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