Charge Pipe + Intercooler Mods

[pphipps20]

Looking to add charge pipes and an intercooler here soon. I’m curious as to which set is worth the money as far as durability and performance? I’ve read things about AFE charge pipes not pairing up with the whipple IC and only pairs with mishimoto. I have a 24 Raptor and I have the Procal tune but haven’t installed yet. Kinda want to wait until I have the mods done to then do the tune. Also have a S&B Air intake coming as well. What’s your guy’s thoughts on the best route to go?

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[JL8jeff]

I'm not sure if the raptor is the same with the intercooler/pipes, but for the 2.7 I think the Mishimoto is the only intercooler that lets you keep the shutters (if that matters). The Mishimoto also can be used with the stock charge pipes using one set of couplers and you can use the upgraded charge pipes that come with a larger set of couplers. I did the intercooler/upgraded charge pipes at the same time and left the shutters off. I'm getting better mpg now with 37's than I did with the 35's. I also added the FPP tune just before doing the intercooler parts.

 

[pphipps20]

I'm not sure if the raptor is the same with the intercooler/pipes, but for the 2.7 I think the Mishimoto is the only intercooler that lets you keep the shutters (if that matters). The Mishimoto also can be used with the stock charge pipes using one set of couplers and you can use the upgraded charge pipes that come with a larger set of couplers. I did the intercooler/upgraded charge pipes at the same time and left the shutters off. I'm getting better mpg now with 37's than I did with the 35's. I also added the FPP tune just before doing the intercooler parts.

I’d like to do them at the same time as well. Does leaving the shutters off require any kind of programming afterwards or are they just off and you’re good to go? And which charge pipes did you go with?

 

[Ninjak]

I do not have a BRaptor, so I am unsure what charge pipes go with it. I run all Injen and it works great. I also am on 37's.

 

[pphipps20]

I do not have a BRaptor, so I am unsure what charge pipes go with it. I run all Injen and it works great. I also am on 37's.

Gotcha. I’m also on 37’s. I read some good stuff on injen as well.

 

[Spooled]

I’d like to do them at the same time as well. Does leaving the shutters off require any kind of programming afterwards or are they just off and you’re good to go? And which charge pipes did you go with?

I have the whipple IC on mine and the shutters are deleted. You won't get a CEL/MIL though because the actuator stays plugged in so it doesn't know they are missing.

 

[pphipps20]

I have the whipple IC on mine and the shutters are deleted. You won't get a CEL/MIL though because the actuator stays plugged in so it doesn't know they are missing.

Ok cool thank you. Thats a relief lol I would probably go whipple too. Idk how I feel about the AFE charge pipes though. I’ve read they don’t pair up, idk if they fixed that yet, and they’re not one solid piece.

 

[Ninjak]

Ok cool thank you. Thats a relief lol I would probably go whipple too. Idk how I feel about the AFE charge pipes though. I’ve read they don’t pair up, idk if they fixed that yet, and they’re not one solid piece.

I just watched a Youtube video on this, the user was putting the Whipple on a 2.7 Badlands, and he had the AFE charge pipes and they did not match up. He machined his couplers to get everything in place. This video was 9 month old, and he stated that perhaps AWE or Whipple would change something.

Part of the issue, he noted, is that the Whipple endlinks were not exactly round. When he measured, they were off a few mil, so that is what he corrected on the AFE couplers.


This is the video

 

[pphipps20]

I just watched a Youtube video on this, the user was putting the Whipple on a 2.7 Badlands, and he had the AFE charge pipes and they did not match up. He machined his couplers to get everything in place. This video was 9 month old, and he stated that perhaps AWE or Whipple would change something.

Part of the issue, he noted, is that the Whipple endlinks were not exactly round. When he measured, they were off a few mil, so that is what he corrected on the AFE couplers.


This is the video

Yea I don’t know if I wanna do all that lol I’d much rather get a set that pairs up correctly. I haven’t seen anything that shows the correction for the pairing yet.

 

[JL8jeff]

Here's a couple pics I took before installing the Mishimoto pipes comparing them to stock.

 

[Ducati1098]

Here's a couple pics I took before installing the Mishimoto pipes comparing them to stock.

Braptors are a little different as they have 2 inlets on the intercooler

 

[Ninjak]

Indeed. That is why I stated I was not sure what was available to the BRaptors as far as charge pipes.

 

[pphipps20]

Here's a couple pics I took before installing the Mishimoto pipes comparing them to stock.

Here's a couple pics I took before installing the Mishimoto pipes comparing them to stock.

Those are nice. I was also looking at the process west charge pipes through buckle up buttercup. Compared to the AFE set because the piping is all metal compared to a more hose like style with the AFE piping.

 

[Epiphany]

I swapped in Cobb's IC and K&N's pipe (which I painted to try to emulate the stock look).

Cobb IC drops right in and reuses the front shutter system. It eliminates the passive flaps on the back side of the IC beneath the fan shroud.

Coupled with the FP tune, K&N air filter and a Borla exhaust everything plays together very nicely.

 

[Ape Factory]

From someone who just did a ton of research, I would look at two different intercoolers. I went with the CP-E CP-E Bronco Raptor Intercooler due to the end tank design and internal baffling to help direct airflow into the core.

After driving around for two weeks, the overall temps are exactly the same. The CP-E is bolt-in, you can literally install it in 30 minutes and the front bumper does not need to come off. I kept both the front active and rear passive shutters which is the reason why. With the front active shutters doing their thing, it pretty much maintains the same charge temps as with the OEM intercooler despite being over an inch thicker.

To see changes in charge temps across all driving conditions, the front flaps would need to be removed. Problem is, the CP-E doesn't have any front ducting work to "seal" the IC core and prevent airflow from going around it. This is why I left the shutters in place as it does provide that seal. As soon as I have a day off and the time, I am going to deactivate the physical coupling to the active shutters which default to the open position. Everything else will remain plugged in so there are no check engine lights.

This brings me to the Whipple. Slightly different end tank design but really the same core (they all are). Whipple provides at least some front ducting to force air through the core. It's not the best but it's far better than not having it at all and the front shutters get removed. The two IC's are almost the same cost although I did get a holiday sale price on the CP-E.

At some point, I'm going to design ducting to seal the CP-E and will look into redesigning the front bash plate to allow more airflow across the core.

I would keep the rear passive shutters as it does help in stop and go/slow speed traffic, overlanding and rock crawling.

While they typically don't add power at any give intake air temp vs. the OE intercooler, I did notice an improvement in transient throttle response and turbo lag. Good end tanks will remove a lot of restriction and there's a natural increase in available air volume. But I'd like to see IAT's 20 degrees (or more) lower than OE. I pretty much see 120F day in and day out thus far until I step on the throttle and the shutters open or ambient temps drop below 85 degrees.

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