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For those that have removed M210 front half-shaft CV axles, which tool(s) worked best to remove them from the differential, ….besides common pry bars.`
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Bump…
Any input on the better tool to un-pop the half-shafts from the diff ??
Hate to use a mix from the pry-bar set.
Finally ready to install RCVs & a billet diff extension tube.
Any input on the better tool to un-pop the half-shafts from the diff ??
Hate to use a mix from the pry-bar set.
Finally ready to install RCVs & a billet diff extension tube.
Just use the CV’s as a slide hammer. Ours popped right out.
Something to think about-the billet diff tube doesn’t strengthen your intermediate shaft. If you’re putting forces on your drivetrain extreme enough to damage the CV axles and you have upgraded the halfshafts, your new failure point is the intermediate shaft. There are plenty of examples where the intermediate shaft grenades the diff. Save the money on the “shiny piece of expensive aluminum” as some shyster on the internet puts it (but only when referring to his competitors products that are actually engineered and not simply a shiny piece of aluminum, but I digress) and go full 32 spline. My .02
Edit-tried to upload the video of said slide hammer technique but no matter how much I shorten it the thing won’t work
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Yep, I am aware of the intermediate shaft weakness and failures seen. I may wait a bit until there is a stouter IMS upgrade. might be marginally OK for Nevada overlanding , with M210 & 35s
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I musta did this wrong, because when I tried this, the half shaft popped off the clip inside the CV housing and that popped out, rather than coming out of the FDU. Fortunately the cage/balls didn't go everywhere.
I ended up resorting to prybars for over an hour to get that F'er to pop out of the FDU. I probably should have just went and got an actual slide hammer. This was on a m190 though, so ...
I've heard the m190 is more of a bastard than the m210, although I don't know why - the shaft is a bit shorter, but I haven't seen the inside of the FDU to see if there are any other differences.
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Oh dang. I wonder if maybe they were compromised before removal and that was just the final piece to finish them off. With me slamming them it only took a few hits. Girly had to try a bit more and she basically had it when I took over, but again popped out no problem.
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It's possible. I was replacing it because of a torn boot. thought the boot tore from getting a limb hung up in it (that same limb ripped a bunch of wiring harnesses loose too - no damage other than some popped clips/zipties on that fortunately) - so it could have been the CV was bad or on the way out. It had just started clicking at full left steerage on reverse only when I pulled the axle. I guess it could have just been lack of grease as much as any trail damage from driving on it for a week or so while I waiting on parts (which ended up being the wrong part, but live and learn).
Anyway that sumbitch was a bastard to get out, and it's a miracle I didn't damage the seal with my banana hands prying and hammering that thing out. 3lb sledge and various pry bars / levers / swearing.
Haha! Man. This is gonna piss you off watching how easy it was. Just get it lined up straight and pop!
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M190 is a different carrier so it gals up and gets stuck. I have round puller for my slide hammer, it still took hours get my driver's m190 CV out.
I'll be pulling my M190 soon. What would be the first method you'd recommend to not muck it up and make a harder job out of it?
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Slide hammer the crap out of it, literally walk it out rotating the fork 1/3 turn each hit. Nothing you can do, the carrier is softer metal and literally binds up. Just flap disk the CV shaft down afterwards if your reinstalling it(you will see the galling).
Thanks. I will not be reusing it, so I will not be gentle.
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