Scanned my 2.3L - radiator shroud area; harness has 3/4ā clearance.
Will wait for Ford info to clear up precise location. This area was of note, below battery.
One area of note is below the battery. Harness close to metal edge, Will remedy it.
Probably, yes. Mine have a shudder from rear to 50 MPH
Spin balanced OK, but they are thumpy which is understandable for the tread pattern.
Next will have the rears load-force balanced. Hope that improves.
Same common failure - Driverās vertical bar failed; 10K miles.
Unfortunately locked-in to the flush tails due to a MFC jerry-can and 90 degree tailgate stopper.
ā22 Badlands 7MT
Recent minor phase 2 refresh after 3 years
- new tires/wheels (had Black Rhino +20mm offset; had resisted the variety of choices with 0 offset) - Toyos & power coated MT Canyons.
- Hammerbuilt hidden winch & high mount intercooler
- Lobo crash bar eliminator & skid plate...
Just installed. EZ install. The high-mount Wagner intercooler hoses are āmulti-fitā for 2.3L & 2.7L; they require some cutting to fit the 2.3 and donāt fit as cleanly as I expected. Consider the Mishimoto IC.
Thank you for the photos of the charge tubes tweaks for the 2.3L.
I just installed on a 2.3L. It would behove Wagner to make a mandrel dedicated to forming hoses for the 2.3. that fit better. The āmulti-fit 2.7 & 2.3ā hoses have marginal to crummy angles for the 2.3.
Dysons worked great. Replaced batteries after a few years. The newer ones seem larger/longer.
Watch out for the OLD Milwaukee; temp/current sense safety circuit blows a MOS FET. Mine failed at 6 months. Temporarily bypassed circuit based on youtube fix. Now have the Dewalt.
Connect the two wires together that go to the hood latch; easier access if you remove the push-in wire harness holder just to the right (passenger side) of the hood latch.
I gave up on mine. Very Infrequently tripped the dash warning, or worse, would trigger the alarm once or twice a year.
The microswitch embedded in the hood latch is marginal for the task.
Pulled off the grille to access; terminated the wires together.
Yep, I am aware of the intermediate shaft weakness and failures seen. I may wait a bit until there is a stouter IMS upgrade. might be marginally OK for Nevada overlanding , with M210 & 35s
Bumpā¦
Any input on the better tool to un-pop the half-shafts from the diff ??
Hate to use a mix from the pry-bar set.
Finally ready to install RCVs & a billet diff extension tube.
Noise ranged from a small chirping bird to a squeaking shock.; most noticeable 5-10 MPH. Replacing the driveshaft resolved. Took about an hour to swap on a 2.3 MT; used a long-nose T-plus bit. The material used in pleated boot appears to cause the noise. The CV joint itself was well...
Great photos of the Borla system. I run the exact same Borla Climber system with the optional small resonator. I like the clearance of the turned-down tip.
At least on my rig, I found the front-end of the main muffler was too close to the hard brake lines. Added some thermal barrier board in...
Generally in warmer climates; Nor Cal & NV, S. ID summer deserts
Diffs - Redline Heavy Duty Shock Proof - "super-multiviscousity"
āFilm thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90ā
Transfercase - RedLine 75W85. (have advance-trac w/clutches but will not use 4A)
7MT...
I installed one of these covers plus the hood āblanketā. Used metric wing nuts from McMaster for quick removal. Might have reduced sound a bit.
Another mention on the Ranger Forums hint that the cover will help minimize water that migrates down to the spark plug threads, which cause bad...