Boy, I can't wait to get my ride well into MY22, to refer back to threads and posters like this to get ideas and streamline my process. I'm not nearly as experienced as this poster and to piggyback off someone else's knowledge and experience is awesome. Thank you!
Ignore my horrible soldering job. Found out the hard way that old solder loses its flux. Went to thinner, newer solder and my job looked great. I think the solder I had was my grandfathers.It says 100uf50v does that help? I don’t understand circuitry very well. Also says 105 c H2035 on the other side
There are two bolts under the dead pedal plastic foot rest! That plastic can be removed by working a trim tool behind it and then you'll see the two bolts!
I can tomorrow. Most of the rocker trim just pulls off and held in by clips. Best to have a trim panel removal tool to minimize breaking a tab. We removed the back panels to install trailer wiring and still damaged a few and that was using several different tools. Just the way it is. They design them for ease of assembly at the factory, ease of removal is mostly an after thought.
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Yes perfect... 100uF at 4ohms is right around 400hz with a 6db rolloff. That seems about right... I will likely go down to 250hz (150uF capacitor)and might even experiment with 150hz (250uF capacitor) to see if the upgraded 4" woofers can handle a little more bass. But I'm still a long ways out...It says 100uf50v does that help? I don’t understand circuitry very well.
Thanks Rod. Crutchfield has such great customer service. When I explained that my speakers sound distorted as they get louder they offered to send me some “bass buster” and insisted on providing them for free. But I think they are sending me 600hz, I’m thinking maybe I start with 300hz, if you are going down to 250. Any thoughts? 600 too much for the Infinity’s?Yes perfect... 100uF at 4ohms is right around 400hz with a 6db rolloff. That seems about right... I will likely go down to 250hz (150uF capacitor)and might even experiment with 150hz (250uF capacitor) to see if the upgraded 4" woofers can handle a little more bass. But I'm still a long ways out...
This is much better than Jeep did... They had the tweeters crossed at above 12,000hz which has very little music up there. I brought them down to 6000hz and the system transformed. And now 6 years later, I'm unaware of a single tweeter failure due to the crossover point change.
https://dynavox.com/150uf-100v-Non-Polar-Electrolytic-Capacitor
I think the 300hz is just fine. Obviously the 600hz would work fine, I just think it's filtering out more than they need.
where did you get the distribution block?Happy to report after 4 late nights working away in the driveway the Bronco now has a great sound system!!
I didn't go crazy with my speaker selection, using kicker CS Series for the 4" and 6.5". There are better speakers out there for sure, but for a sound stage that in my case is open air as often as I can have the top off and the windows down, they provide a plenty accurate and full listening experience!
For the rear speakers I took a page out of the Wrangler/UTV owners playbook and went with a pair of 6.5" marine wake tower speakers. Went back and forth on this one for a while because I'm someone that likes to keep things looking factory, but in the end I'm so happy I went this route! They are more than powerful enough to break through the wind noise and push crisp clear audio up to the front seats!
I 3D printed some mounting adapters so I could still take advantage of the factory brackets and so far it's working great. Working on finding a thread locker that plays nice with PLA for the bolts and then they'll be good for hopefully years to come.
Lastly I was going to mount the two amps where the factory B&O sub and DSP would be, but ended up going with the much easier to access cargo area. It was easy to mount everything and using some spacers for the "load floor" that's held down by the tie down points in the rear I had plants of room to run my wiring.
Just got them off Amazon!
Thank you...one last question, the kicker amp you wired for the front speakers, from the factory as you know its wired in series from the kick panel speakers to the dash speakers, how did you wire up the 4 inputs for the amp? I hope I am making sense.
Yeah you're good! The amp as the ability to use 2 channel input for 4 channel out so I used the full range signal that goes to the factory kick panel speakers, and then I ran new speaker wire from the amp to all 4 front speakers locations. Used the amps built in crossover to filter out the low frequency for the 4" ones!
the only unclear part is the part I need help with the most .... that's slide number E354048 & E354051I can tomorrow. Most of the rocker trim just pulls off and held in by clips. Best to have a trim panel removal tool to minimize breaking a tab. We removed the back panels to install trailer wiring and still damaged a few and that was using several different tools. Just the way it is. They design them for ease of assembly at the factory, ease of removal is mostly an after thought.
Removal
NOTE: Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details.
All vehicles
NOTE: Left hand (LH) shown, right hand (RH) similar.
- Remove the screws and the instrument panel grab handle.
Torque: 80 lb.in (9 Nm)
- Release the clips and remove the cowl side trim panel.
Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
- On 3-door vehicles.
Release the clips and remove the front scuff plate trim panel.
Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
- On 5-door vehicles.
Release the clips and remove the front scuff plate trim panel.
Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim RemoverLeft hand lower cowl side panel panel
- Release the clips and remove the driver foot rest trim panel.
Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
- Remove the driver foot rest nuts.
Torque: 28 lb.in (3.2 Nm)
- Release the clips and remove the LH A-pillar speaker grille.
Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
- Release the clips and remove the LH lower cowl side panel panel.
Right hand lower cowl side panel panel
- Release the clips and remove the RH A-pillar speaker grille.
Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
- Release the clips and remove the RH lower cowl side panel panel.
All vehicles
NOTE: Left hand speaker is shown, right hand speaker is similar.
- Disconnect the electrical connector, remove the screws and the A-pillar speaker.
Torque: 19 lb.in (2.2 Nm)Installation
- To install, reverse the removal procedure.
