B/O subwoofer replacement issue

[cmtaz]

So that brings up a "basic" math question:

Given the B&O amp produces 110 w/ per channel (under the best of conditions and only on holidays that have a full moon ):

A dvc sub will receive a single 110 watt input to each voice coil,

However bridging the inputs always produced more output when using aftermarket amps. The 110 + 110 might effectively be 275 when bridging an Alpine or Sony amp.

Could that come into play here? DS18 makes a drop in dvc & svc sub. Common sense would lead me towards the dvc, but if the svc is receiving that much more power it could be worth exploring.

Sponsored

 

[23OBX2.7]

Im going to hook it up bridged to my 10" JL 10W1v3-4 which fits perfectly with the amp power.​

 

[23OBX2.7]

Yes, correct. As long as 4 ohms is maintained, the amp won’t suffer.

OP did you twist the positives together from each channel, and the negatives and plug in or did you attach one channel positive and other channel negative to the single 4 ohm for a true bridge?

 

[B-rad351]

OP did you twist the positives together from each channel, and the negatives and plug in or did you attach one channel positive and other channel negative to the single 4 ohm for a true bridge?

I had to cut the factory plug off, connected (soldered) both positives together and then both negatives together.

 

[23OBX2.7]

I had to cut the factory plug off, connected (soldered) both positives together and then both negatives together.

Thank you very much for your patience, and trying this out in the first place.

 

[cmtaz]

Im going to hook it up bridged to my 10" JL 10W1v3-4 which fits perfectly with the amp power.​

Hook it up to the B&O amp or an aftermarket amp bridged?

 

[23OBX2.7]

When looking around for a suitable box for my JL dropped into my favorite indy Hertz, Focal, Audison etc dealer to check some NOS loaded boxes I've seen there for a few years.

Prepped by removing sub connecting both positives and both negative speaker wires with extensions.

Tried 4 loaded boxes back to back incl one Audison 10" Prima and 3 Hertz; 12,10 and 8.

Was so impressed with NOS Hertz EBX F25.5 slim 10" w passive radiatior bought it for USD 170.

Comes with metal horizontal bracket that I 3M taped and 6 nuts / bolts attached to side panel with bottom wedge corner slotted into groove between floor panel and side panel.

Sounds amazing with perfext balance, no rattles anwhere except maybe pods, and sets me up for replacing OE en

closure with amp rack and having sib capable now and working with my Kenwood XR 1000.1 when want to upgrade. The metal grill is very heavy duty works as down fire as well but side was best soind for me.

 

[Bospider01]

My stock B&O sub blew and in a pinch before searching the way i should have, i followed someone else's suggestion and installed the DS18. I didn't realize or even really understand the DVC portion of things. So, per the thread i read, i cut the connector off one set (purple and yellow i believe) and hooked up the new sub. It works and no more rattle from a blown sub but its lacking comparatively. I can't afford to go the Kicker DVC route, yet. Seeing that i can theoretically bridge the amp by utilizing the second pair that's just sitting in there, gives me hope for the time being. While it makes me nervous to do this, i'm willing to try in order to get more out of the sub.

• Can someone tell me what color wires are positive and what wires are negative?
• After bridging, is there any tuning that needs to be done and if so, how do i do it?

 

[Spiked]

Hope this helps!

 

[Bospider01]

yes it does, thank you!

Hope this helps!

Sponsored