B/O subwoofer replacement issue

[B-rad351]

I have a ‘24 Badlands with the B/O sound system. I purchased a DS-18, SLC-8S sub under the guise that this sub is a direct replacement for the wimpy factory B/O subwoofer and I can still use the factory amp.
My issue is the factory sub has an input plug on opposite sides. It is a dual voice coil speaker. My replacement speaker is a single connection (+ -) single coil speaker. How should I wire this? Do I connect both positives (++) and both negatives (- -) to the single positive and negative posts on the new sub?
Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: I researched it to death and ended up bridging both subwoofer channels into one and connecting to the new subwoofer. It’s a lot better now. The base is deep and punchy and the factory amp isn’t overheating. I rarely have the volume past half way so there is no sub attenuation. Left the trim panels off so I can monitor this over the next few days. Exactly what I wanted.

Sponsored

 

[Brian_B]

You need an amp, or a different dual voice coil speaker

If you thought replacing the speaker but keeping the amp was gonna do much for you, you may get a bit, but the amp is the heavy hitter in that relationship

Wiring both amp channels together may work for a bit (called Bridging) but I don’t recommend it with the factory amp. An amp should specifically support Bridging before you wire it (and often gets wired different when bridging), otherwise it’s liable to let the magic smoke out.

Using a single channel (one mated +/- pair - don’t mix the channels up) would get you sound, but at half the power of the stock speaker.

 

[B-rad351]

You need an amp, or a different dual voice coil speaker

If you thought replacing the speaker but keeping the amp was gonna do much for you, you may get a bit, but the amp is the heavy hitter in that relationship

Wiring both amp channels together may work for a bit (called Bridging) but I don’t recommend it with the factory amp. An amp should specifically support Bridging before you wire it (and often gets wired different when bridging), otherwise it’s liable to let the magic smoke out.

Using a single channel (one mated +/- pair - don’t mix the channels up) would get you sound, but at half the power of the stock speaker.

I understand. I appreciate your input and I will return this speaker and get a dual voice coil or more than likely get an amp.

 

[Brian_B]

Most folks are using the Kicker CompRT 8” 4Ohm version, which is DVC - just pop the beauty ring around the speaker and it fits right in the B&O enclosure.

 

[Spiked]

UPDATE: I researched it to death and ended up bridging both subwoofer channels into one and connecting to the new subwoofer. It’s a lot better now. The base is deep and punchy and the factory amp isn’t overheating. I rarely have the volume past half way so there is no sub attenuation. Left the trim panels off so I can monitor this over the next few days. Exactly what I wanted.

How is this working out for you? I also have single coil sub I am trying to use with the factory amp. Does bridging get you the additive power levels from both sub channels coming from the factory amp?

 

[23OBX2.7]

How is this working out for you? I also have single coil sub I am trying to use with the factory amp. Does bridging get you the additive power levels from both sub channels coming from the factory amp?

Just get a dual 4 ohm sub.

 

[Spiked]

Just get a dual 4 ohm sub.

I had already pulled the trigger on the single coil, and ripped off the beauty ring. I think this set up is going to match power on the amp adequately. Still working on adding deadening to get vibrations out of the body and sub enclosure.

 

[23OBX2.7]

I wonder if you can just connect two positives and two negatives of amp out put and attach to sub....

 

[cmtaz]

UPDATE: I researched it to death and ended up bridging both subwoofer channels into one and connecting to the new subwoofer. It’s a lot better now. The base is deep and punchy and the factory amp isn’t overheating. I rarely have the volume past half way so there is no sub attenuation. Left the trim panels off so I can monitor this over the next few days. Exactly what I wanted.

How is that working out and what sub did you use? The idea of bridging subwoofer channels into one and connecting to the new subwoofer scares the poop out of me. I'm picturing surfing ebay for a new B&O amp .

thanks

 

[B-rad351]

How is that working out and what sub did you use? The idea of bridging subwoofer channels into one and connecting to the new subwoofer scares the poop out of me. I'm picturing surfing ebay for a new B&O amp .

thanks

It’s working great. I bought a DS18 ‘drop in’ sub and did end up bridging the 2 channels into the single channel on this sub. I then tested it for several days making sure the amp didn’t overheat or cut off. This sub was definitely an improvement over the factory sub. I wasn’t looking for earth shaking bass and am satisfied with it. The sub cost around $80. I believe they do offer a dual channel sub now. This is the one I have.

 

[23OBX2.7]

It’s working great. I bought a DS18 ‘drop in’ sub and did end up bridging the 2 channels into the single channel on this sub. I then tested it for several days making sure the amp didn’t overheat or cut off. This sub was definitely an improvement over the factory sub. I wasn’t looking for earth shaking bass and am satisfied with it. The sub cost around $80. I believe they do offer a dual channel sub now. This is the one I have.

Safe to say the B&O sub channels can be safely bridged then? Have you tun it at above 20 for 30min plus with no smoke? Haha

 

[B-rad351]

Safe to say the B&O sub channels can be safely bridged then? Have you tun it at above 20 for 30min plus with no smoke? Haha

Correct. As I said, I tested the amp for days before reassembling the panels. No smoke, no overheating and no distortion. Works fine.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Thanks! That opens up a lot of 8" options!

 

[cmtaz]

So based on this, it seems like we could use a DVC 4ohm or a SVC 4ohm (combine inputs) sub.

 

[B-rad351]

So based on this, it seems like we could use a DVC 4ohm or a SVC 4ohm (combine inputs) sub.

Yes, correct. As long as 4 ohms is maintained, the amp won’t suffer.

Sponsored