4A necessary for Iowa?

[JinKat]

I'm in love with my new bronco but I'm having second thoughts about whether I made the right choice. Mine is a 4 cylinder without 4A.
4A was a big deal for me because of snow/ice during the winter in Iowa. My husband convinced me that I didn't need 4A and that I could just learn how to use 4L and 4H. Did I mess up super bad not going with my gut and waiting for a v6 with 4A? I doubt there's much of anything I can do at this point but just wondering if I fucked up or if 4A is needed.

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[userdude]

If you flat tow, you're better off.

If you've had an AWD or something similar* before and don't know how you drove without it, I'd get with your husband so he can show you what he means. There are goat modes that might help, too.

For winter, I think the tires matter most, e.g. Nokian Hakkapeliittas.

* Note that 4 wheel advanced or 4A is not technically all wheel drive. I think it's more like anti-slip in the transfer case or something?

 

[JinKat]

If you flat tow, you're better off.

If you've had an AWD or something similar* before and don't know how you drove without it, I'd get with your husband so he can show you what he means. There are goat modes that might help, too.

For winter, I think the tires matter most, e.g. Nokian Hakkapeliittas.

* Note that 4 wheel advanced or 4A is not technically all wheel drive. I think it's more like anti-slip in the transfer case or something?

This is my first 4WD and biggest concern is rain and snow. Won’t be towing anything at the moment. Never had an AWD either- previous vehicle was a ford focus hatchback.

 

[Lowcountry Bronco]

What were you driving before and did you end up in a ditch? I would say it's a nice to have under certain conditions but then again if you know those conditions ahead of time based on experience then being prepared by slowing down, having good winter tires that's more than half the battle. If you need 4H or 4L then make sure you know how each work and under what driving conditions you should engage them. Outside of that is to trade it out but it's now a used vehicle so you won't get that value back. Either way good luck but I think you'll be fine.

 

[userdude]

This is my first 4WD and biggest concern is rain and snow. Won’t be towing anything at the moment.

Ok, I see. I'm sure you'll be fine. Have your husband demo getting into 4WD modes; for 4L, you have to be in neutral. You can also drive 4H on paved roads (I have, twice, for a long way, by accident), but you can get in a binding situation where your tires don't want to spin. Also, just go out and drive some. Even if it's just in a field, it'll be more comfortable if you've done it a few times.

There's not much to it, though. 4A helps in situations where the computer can guess slipping is happening and move torque to the axle that needs it (sort've, sure I'm overparaphrasing). 4H gives you all four tires spinning, but handling that means knowing what you're doing if you're in deep snow or mud, for instance (this is what lockers are for, so the tires on an axle spin together or lock). 4L is a lower gear all four tires spinning. Because of the lower gear, you have to be in neutral when you go into and out of 4L. I forget that last part ALL THE TIME. lol

And the tires matter more, AFAIU. I don't know what the stock OBX has tire-wise, but the tires do make the biggest difference after skinny pedal (how much you use the gas and when).

 

[Brian_B]

Here's my two cents, and I will probably get some pushback but...

If the pavement is wet and you're in some weather - go ahead and use 4H -- or use the GOAT mode for Slippery. Just don't use it on dry pavement if you can help it, and don't use it at high speed. If you are going 55+ MPH, the road is probably good enough you don't need 4WD on at all.

You will probably not need 4L for street driving, even in really bad weather. But it's there if you need it - think of it as turning everything into a granny gear.

And what @userdude says about tires is correct - they matter more than running 4WD. You don't necessarily need Nokians; most M+T tires are decent in snow and rain, and something 3-Peak rated will help a ton especially on snow. For ice... well... that's ice. Not even 4A is going to save you there.

No, I don't think you F'd up. 4A is a "set it and forget it" feature, and it's nice, but it won't do anything for you that you can't already do for yourself. Go ahead and throw it in 4H if you are worried, or turn that GOAT dial - just don't use it for extended periods if the pavement is clear and dry or at highway speeds on the road.

The GOAT modes really do help a decent bit - it will automatically put you in the right 4WD mode, it will adjust the throttle response, shift points, and steering response somewhat too, and if you have them it can apply the lockers and such as well - so it's like a super cheat mode. Just make sure to turn them back to Normal (or Eco/Sport) when you get back onto good, clear roads.

 

[userdude]

Oh and flat tow, I mean tow your Bronco rolling on the ground. Like behind an RV.

The Adventek (4A) driveline has an issue with blowing transmissions in flat tow. So it's easier/safer to tow a non-4A Bronco, if that's what you're doing or want to do. In other words, for some there is a benefit and 4A ain't like super awesome.

 

[userdude]

Go ahead and throw it in 4H if you are worried, just don't use it if the pavement is clear and dry or at highway speeds on the road.

I've done both, twice! 2 1/2 hour drive back from Barnwell Mountain in East Texas in 4H at 80 on the interstate. Fun times!

 

[MNBigfoot]

My 2004 F150 probably had 40K miles on it, driving 60 mph in 4H. I wish you could get the Sas package without 4A, but I can take it or leave it. Before the F150, it was Tacoma, 2 Dakota's and a XJ, no problems on any of them.

 

[Brian_B]

I've done both, twice! 2 1/2 hour drive back from Barnwell Mountain in East Texas in 4H at 80 on the interstate. Fun times!

Yeah, your transfer case probably won't instantly explode if you happen to be in 4WD and hit dry pavement. Some people seem to think it may, and they are correct in that it isn't good for the drive train, something could break, and you want to avoid it when you can - but it's not like that happens instantly as soon as they touch dry pavement.

I'm sure @userdude knows this, but for the OP's sake:

Binding is the condition they are really worried about - since your front and rear axles get locked together in 4H/4L, if they need to slip because of a small speed difference - the only way to do that is for the tires to slip a bit (and you may notice they hop or jump a bit, especially when trying to turn), or something up inside the gearing breaks. On wet/slick pavement the tires can do that easily. On really grippy surfaces, like dry asphalt or solid granite - the tires get really good traction and ... maybe they don't slip like you hope and a gear somewhere shreds.

There's the other camp that just runs in 4H all day long and never had an issue. You can do that if you want. I wouldn't recommend it though.

And you can go just as fast in 4H as you can 2H, but again, if you do happen to bind a little bit, speed amplifies the stress on everything.

 

[MNBigfoot]

5 vehicles over a million miles, this bindings at highway speeds on a straight road, is highly exaggerated, mostly spoken of by a generation that always had 4A.

 

[JinKat]

Here's my two cents, and I will probably get some pushback but...

If the pavement is wet and you're in some weather - go ahead and use 4H -- or use the GOAT mode for Slippery. Just don't use it on dry pavement if you can help it, and don't use it at high speed. If you are going 55+ MPH, the road is probably good enough you don't need 4WD on at all.

You will probably not need 4L for street driving, even in really bad weather. But it's there if you need it - think of it as turning everything into a granny gear.

And what @userdude says about tires is correct - they matter more than running 4WD. You don't necessarily need Nokians; most M+T tires are decent in snow and rain, and something 3-Peak rated will help a ton especially on snow. For ice... well... that's ice. Not even 4A is going to save you there.

No, I don't think you F'd up. 4A is a "set it and forget it" feature, and it's nice, but it won't do anything for you that you can't already do for yourself. Go ahead and throw it in 4H if you are worried, or turn that GOAT dial - just don't use it for extended periods if the pavement is clear and dry or at highway speeds on the road.

The GOAT modes really do help a decent bit - it will automatically put you in the right 4WD mode, it will adjust the throttle response, shift points, and steering response somewhat too, and if you have them it can apply the lockers and such as well - so it's like a super cheat mode. Just make sure to turn them back to Normal (or Eco/Sport) when you get back onto good, clear roads.

thank you! Someone else mentioned 4H for rain and snow, so that’s a good starting point for understanding.

 

[rdg04578]

4H should only be used under slippery conditions and generally I would not use it on wet pavement. 4A is not AWD --but the system automatically shifts into 4wd if it senses wheel slip in the rear ( the system is generally in 2WD). When the system switches into 4WD unlike 4H there is not a 50% power split between the front and rear axles since it is clutched to allow for some slipping in the front end to allow for turning--because the front wheels need to spin at different speeds to allow for the turn to happen. That is why on hard surfaces when you are in 4H it feels like the rig is jerking and bucking--since it is trying to turn the front and rear axles at same speed but they can't while the steering wheel is turned. The more you turn the more you feel it. You can try this for yourself in a parking lot on dry pave --and even wet it will do the same thing which causes a lot of stress on the drive train. When slippery the wheel can "slip" making up the difference which is why you do not feel it in the steering wheel.
4A is a set it and forget it mode--but if you are comfortable in your driving and knowing when you need 4wd you will not miss or need the 4A. As said before tires make the biggest difference and I would invest in a good set of winter tires and not even worry about not having 4A. Bottom line good tires and not having 4A will outperform crappy tires and 4A every time.

 

[VIRUS]

IMO 4WD on road is unnecessary unless you come across an un-plowed road.
We occasionally get decent snow in Wisconsin.
Usually see more 4WD vehicles in the ditch or crashed out than 2WD.
Tried the 4A in snow and didn't care for it. Both rear wheels get full power and the back comes around easily under acceleration at low speed while turning.
Just put it in 4WD when you need it.
Advanced 4WD isn't any better. You aren't missing anything

 

[Sgt Badlands]

You will be fine. 4H when snow. Traction control will help in rain. Like others have said, tires make a big difference with traction. Don’t overthink it.

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