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This is what I was looking for. I also have the electronic sway bar and was concerned with how difficult it would be to lower it. Did you have to disconnect the harness? Any other issues?

Is this with 315/70/17 and the Eibach Pro lift Springs on stock badlands shocks?

It will not work with the larger speaker pods. That said it’s the best upgrade I have installed. I moved from a hardtop to an etop and the additional body flex was driving me crazy. Added the c-bow braces and it rides as well as with the hardtop- huge difference.

I’m assuming all of you are running hardtops. I upgraded mine with a bestop etop and with the wind noise it’s pretty much a fighting battle. Sounds good up to about 45 and then wind noise takes over.

Do you have any pictures of this setup. I am thinking this might be the way to go.

This is what I’m wondering. I wanted to know if anyone has scoped the headunit to understand if and where it clips. I know where it clips on the input of the DSP but I can increase the gain on the input DSP to get more headroom if I understand where it clips or at all.

Setting gains - does anyone know the max volume before distortion?

I looked on their website but only saw kits. I guess I will go back and search again. Thanks

I’m hoping someone can help. I’m installing a Maestro A2B interface to add an amp - B&O system. It’s my understanding that the rear channels operate off the head unit and I need to tap into those wires behind the headunit. The instructions state to cut the wires. Does any know if PAC or someone...

Where did you run the 1/0 wire?

Curious from those of you that are running the Mobridge DSP and added an external amp to drive you sub channel. What size power and ground did you run. I’m looking at a 700 watt amp with 50 amp fuse. Based off the 100 amp fuse of the Mobridge that would put me at 150 amps or 1/0 wire. It just...

I believe it would matter more depending on the top you have. I had a hardtop and really didn’t recognize the flex in the Body. I moved to an etop and thought I made a mistake immediately. Tons of flex, rattle and squeaking. I installed the braces and it immediately was a different vehicle.

I agree with all the above. Buy it before it’s discontinued. It make a huge difference in body rigidity on my soft top. It felt like a different vehicle once installed.

Curious for those of you with the Mobridge amp/Dsp. How are you setting the gains? I’m assuming the levels on each speaker act as the gain? Is there any clipping indicator built into the software? Thanks!

Gearshade box and 10TW3 for the win.

Thanks! Did you put any polyfill in there?

I guess I will be working on my kicks. What putty are you using??

It’s the sub not the tune. I couldn’t get enough output out of it. I am running a JL 10 TW3 in a Gearshade box in the factory location and it’s much better. Not crazy bass but fills in the bottom end good at all volumes.

How are you still liking the Frogs? Strongly considering a move to a GB40 in dash and GB10 in the dash.

Following back up on this thread. Does anyone have any RTA measurements of their mids? I’m considering going down a rabbit hole to seal the enclosure more but not sure it’s worth it. I’m still struggling to get a 100hz 24db LR rolloff from this location.