Ultimate Oil, Oil filter, Weights, Additives and so much more.

[Bradley Thornton]

Ok, some will be data and some will be my opinion, I'm going to give my opinion first to save the person that just wants an quick answer a ton of time.

My opinion
(If you ask me why on my opinion please look at the data first then ask)
On break in (New Car) change oil like every 3000 mile for first 9-10k, Mobil 1 oil and filter is a great and safe go to (Always fill oil filter with oil before install). (2nd choice on oil is Pins oil ultra platinum) (2nd filter K&N) Run 5-30 never use additives except for fuel and do that at least once a year, I'm a Lucas or Chevron fuel treatment guy. If you drive a good amount of mile per 10k miles change oil every 10k. If you drive short miles often like say mostly city maybe every 5k-7,500 miles (due Turbo oil heat soak). Outside oil filter magnet I'm a fan on high hp cars and can't hurt and I recommend if running a K&N filter or 30 micron. Never go cheap on filter or oil (Never)

Now for data I'm going to share some videos (Not mine) with a ton of real world data. I did this research years ago and knew all this but the oil additive info that was new info/data for me. After my Ultimate battery write up I thought videos may help vs my bad spelling and grammar lol.

On break in change oil like every 3000 mile for first 9-10k,


Reason for 5-30, 0-30 is better for fuel and better oil but if it gets out of specs is way worse and not worth the risk. Graph at 6:21min


Reason for Mobil 1
(No perfect oil but per $ and good oil I like Mobil 1) (reason for sooner oil changes Turbo soak)(You can skip to 25:00 if you don't care about nothing but raw data) You may like Pins oil ultra platinum better


Oil Filter
(I fill like this one is harder to understand do to so much info its just a lot so I'm going to try and explain some first) Then give the data so you will know what to look for and why.
Worst thing that can happen is bypass fails so no cheap brand bypass filters. This then takes you to micron many are going to say 20 is better than 30 but if your pressure gets to low due to filter being stopped up it bypasses then all solids go in motor. Ford says 20-30 micron is fine. Must have anti drain back valve 99% do in todays world but you also want it to be silicone. Personally I also think the media needs to be a synthetic blend or synthetic.

Not in the data but Toyota makes a great filter.

Real world test.


Explain Bypass


Ton of data and info To be clear I disagree with this guy a good bit but you get what you want from it. (I gave you my opinion in the beginning and you seen real world test above)


Additives (I said no to oil additives but times to use motor knocking and trying to just make it home add Lucas, Lifter sticking add Marvel but only run marvel till lifter comes unstuck then change oil)


My opinion
Radiator stop leak and flush and head gasket repair (Just say no)
Never use this just buy new radiator why it will also stop up your engine water ports, heater core, or flush is a band-aid just replace. Head gasket repair bad idea same reason but if you do it change oil as soon as fixed due to bad for the oil.

Real world data


Again I say never but I want to give more info.


Oil filter magnet real world data


Little bonus I run Valvoline VR1 10-30in my race car/street car K&N filter with 2 magnets

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[CalvinT]

Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (same as Holt's Radweld) is an excellent stop leak. It works and will not clog up your cooling passages. Up until then I never trusted a stop leak. All the ones I saw previously looked like they could clog passages.

I've used it, it sealed a crack in the upper tank and a hole the size of a paper clip wire. Also there was no sign of clogging when I took the radiator apart later. That was back around 2004 or 2005 (replaced radiator). I'm still driving the same Subaru with no problems. Heater works great.

 

[DC1]

Always fill oil filter with oil before install?? Not possible on a 2.7 for sure.

 

[CalvinT]

(Always fill oil filter with oil before install).

This guy isn't thinking things through completely.

There are some cars where the oil filter points down when installed. The filter is on top of the engine (many Subarus starting around 2011. There are others). Such filters have a check valve to keep them from draining when the engine is shut off. Others are mounted sideways.

He should have said, "let the engine idle until the oil pressure/engine light goes out" then wait a few seconds longer. I stopped going to one of the oil change places because they'd immediately rev the engine after doing the fill. I asked them about it, they said, "to check the oil filter gasket for leaks."

There are a couple of problems with that practice.
1. engine is starved for oil until the filter is filled.
2. oil pumps have a pressure release valve to limit oil pressure to a certain value. That keeps seals and gaskets from being blown out. Revving the engine doesn't increase oil pressure, it just forces it to build quicker.

 

[Bradley Thornton]

Always fill oil filter with oil before install?? Not possible on a 2.7 for sure.

This is true with many engines. If you watch the video he says that and points out you should when possible. Common sense comes in to play at some point.

They make an adaptor for my 302. This guy shows how to turn it over without start to get oil in filter to keep from dry start.

To get to turn over engine with out start go to 9:35 min

 

[McRightclick]

The Bronco can do a flat floot crank with no spark, perfect for getting the filter filled up after a change. I'd much rather use that than spill oil all over the place trying to install a prefilled horizontal filter on the 2.3s.

 

[ducksface]

Per 100,000 vehicles:
How many oil related failures are there and how many of those failures would this punctiliousness alleviate?

Does this amount of worry/detail change the odds from 1:150,000 chance of oil related failure(not part failure) in a perfectly maintained vehicle to 1:300:000?

At what ratio should it be a concern to the driver of just a regular old bronco if they weren't ever concerned prior and never had an oil fear/problem?

How many Broncos have been built vs odds of a failure due strictly to oil?

Just so newbs and those with an already full plate do not adapt/adopt this into their harried schedules;
Outside of laboratory results of infintesimal chance, what do you all suggest for REAL LIFE?

I suggest to drive your bronco like you and all you know have driven any other vehicle since you've been driving.

 

[MilesTeg]

Pre-filling an oil filter is a good idea, but not essential. Residual oil in your engine will protect it well enough for the couple seconds it takes to get oil flowing again. It's not that much different from a cold start after sitting a few days.

I have a 2.3 with the horizontal filter. Rather than filling the filter up, I fill it up about halfway and let it sit while I'm doing other things, which lets the filter media saturate. Usually I only spill an ounce or so. Letting that filter media saturate does more for getting things flowing optimally than trying to fill up the filter.

You know that oil change places, where about 90% of cars get serviced, don't take the time to try to fill a filter that is inconvenient, and I'd bet good money most don't even fill the filter when it isn't inconvenient.

 

[Brian_B]

How many oil related failures are there and how many of those failures would this punctiliousness alleviate?

Well...

There are two ways to look at failure

The first would be a sudden, catastrophic failure. Like... the oil filter just blew out and you lost all oil pressure type of failure, or the "I never changed my oil ever and at 35k miles the engine just seized" (just some examples, not the only one I could imagine).

Just about any brand oil/filter will prevent this. Could probably even run peanut oil and your engine wouldn't spontaneously explode as long as you obey the Change Oil light. I'd agree, those don't happen very often.

The second would be the long, slow degradation of parts that eventually lead to premature failure. This is what most people are thinking of when they are looking at all this oil analysis. Cheap Brand X on a 10,000 mile schedule will net you, maybe 150k miles before things start to get dirty and impact reliability, whereas Premium Brand Y might be able to get you to 400k miles on a 5,000 mile schedule.

That's harder to pull from the data. The failure may be "lifters stuck", but the real cause is the long, slow buildup of sludge that lead to the lifters getting sticky in the first place.

If you are one of those people that gets a new vehicle every 3-5 years, then you probably don't care at all - the consequences of doing the standard duty oil change will probably never catch up to you and the engine will probably run perfectly fine for the entire time you own the vehicle. But if you are one of those who buy a vehicle for 10yrs-life... then you care very much. Ford specifications and recommendations for service intervals really are only concerned with getting you through the warranty period.

 

[ducksface]

"Cheap Brand X will net you, maybe 150k miles before things start to get dirty and impact reliability, whereas Premium Brand Y might be able to get you to 400k miles."

What do we guess will be the mileage that 90% of bronco owners will get rid of their Bronco?
95%
99%

So,
The probability that premium oil/service cost is money expended to protect the third world(where a 300,000 mile vehicle is sent in a shipping container) buyer years and years from now, is how much in dollars and time to me?

How does it add value during the first 150,000 miles and is the value real or speculative on an additional 100,000 miles?

I'm not trying to be mean.
I'm trying to keep someone, who has never had an oil worry in their entire family, from spending unneeded funds or needing to up their meds to keep the worry of oil failure in check.

 

[Brian_B]

I do follow a 5k mile oil change schedule. I use either Mobile 1 or Penz full synthetic - depending on what's on sale that day. I use the larger FL-400S filters for my 2.3. I don't pre-fill the filter, but the soak idea doesn't sound like a bad one from @MilesTeg. Air and cabin filters all get cleaned on oil change day, as well as tire rotation, and I take a good luck around at all the suspension mounts and brakes while I'm under there and have the tires off.

Being an older DI 2.3, I don't use any fuel additive (I use Top Tier gas almost exclusively, preferring Shell or Chevron when the price isn't outrageous), but since 50k miles I have started using CRC Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner before every oil change. I don't know what effect it's had so far, but plan to boroscope and see what the valves look like when I do plugs again at 100k.

 

[Brian_B]

"Cheap Brand X will net you, maybe 150k miles before things start to get dirty and impact reliability, whereas Premium Brand Y might be able to get you to 400k miles."

What do we guess will be the mileage that 90% of bronco owners will get rid of their Bronco?
95%
99%

So,
The premium service and service cost is money expended to protect the third world(where a 300,000 mile is sent in a shipping container) buyer years and years from now?

If you are one of those people that gets a new vehicle every 3-5 years, then you probably don't care at all - the consequences of doing the standard duty oil change will probably never catch up to you and the engine will probably run perfectly fine for the entire time you own the vehicle. But if you are one of those who buy a vehicle for 10yrs-life... then you care very much. Ford specifications and recommendations for service intervals really are only concerned with getting you through the warranty period.

Maybe it's not a money thing. Maybe it's a pride thing.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Most ppl have no incling of turbo 1800F temps and torture on even the best SQ GF7 Synthetic oils that demand 3000- 5000 mile changes.

If not DIY thats $200 +/- per oil change 4-5X year.

Most ppl with leases will follow Ford and even just run dino oil which is probably ok for gentle hyper miler hwy use.

 

[ducksface]

I have no pride in how many low value oil changes I can manage, to slightly/possibly/laboratory-theoretically, protect the next owner, 100,000 or 200,000 or never miles after I'm rid of the vehicle.

 

[Brian_B]

I have no pride in how many low value oil changes I can manage, to slightly/possibly/laboratory-theoretically, protect the owner 100,000 or 200,000 or never miles after I'm rid of the vehicle.

If you prove 10 oil quality failures in broncos, I'll change my mind a bit.
I ask only for 10 examples if oil quality being the known culprit.
If you cant do 10 out of 250,000, post all you can find.

I don't care enough about what you do to your Bronco, or about you, frankly, to care if you change your mind or not.

You can do your own research if you like. It's not on me, as a random internet idiot, to enlighten you.
I still get to post my opinions and thoughts, and people can read, laugh at, ignore, or whatever they choose to do with them - as I do posts from many others here (including yours).

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