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Transmission Failure: ‘24 32k mi 2.3l

2021FordBronco2

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I’ve done some deep digging about this….here is what I’ve learned:

there are things you can do do try and fit it yourself (which I believe this task should be handled by the dealer/ford as this is under warranty). Also these things should never happen at 50, 70 or 150k miles.

here are the diy tricks:
Disconnect the battery for 15mins or overnight (some even said to honk the horn after disconnect to drain all the power)….this supposedly will reset the computers and the shifting hiccups will be fixed. In a best case scenario this is resolved by a computer glitch (which also shouldn’t happen, but can).

FORSCAN: clear the dtc codes in combo with the battery trick.

The dealer will do the same thing but at least when they do it there is a record by ford of the issue and it’s documented by them and the mileage (under warranty).

In your case I woukd consider buying a granger esp. I am very happy I bought the 8 or 10 year 100k coverage plan. This will cover issues up to 100k instead of just to the included power train warranty 60k mi.
I’m pretty sure it’s hard to buy a warranty after a documented issue.

I’ve also learned the 10R60 is notably a reliable transmission. Failures of these are rare….but they do happen. There are some known manufacturing issues that a casing can slip and things don’t fit or shift properly and thus cause rough shifting. Apparently they know about this and made some changes to the newer models. There are transmission issues reported from 21 through 26s. I don’t know if it’s the same issue with all models but there are no years that have no problems.

I am sorry you are experiencing rough shifting. No car should have these issues at 16k (or ever) if it’s manufactured properly and things are functioning as designed. I would look into an extended warranty from granger and then make an appointment with your dealer. Ask about a rental/loaner car. They hooked me up with a 26 sport that had 12 miles on it. It’s different but better than taking the bus or borrowing a car from family or friends.

good luck. Take notes, do research and I hope the electric reset resolves your issues.
I did the transmission reset already, helped till it "relearned" went back to how it was. I already took it to the dealer and they said its due to the heavier tires which I feel isn't true because I feel it shift roughly at a stop back into first from 2nd. There's no codes at the moment but very frustrating.
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Ducati1098

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There are some known manufacturing issues that a casing can slip and things don’t fit or shift properly and thus cause rough shifting. Apparently they know about this and made some changes to the newer models. There are transmission issues reported from 21 through 26s. I don’t know if it’s the same issue with all models but there are no years that have no problems.
You’re confusing 10R60 and 10R80.

The failure you’re referring to where the bushing in the CDF drum moves is a 10R80 failure.

They’ve made no changes to the 10R60 parts because it doesn’t happen in these transmissions.
 
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You’re confusing 10R60 and 10R80.

The failure you’re referring to where the bushing in the CDF drum moves is a 10R80 failure.

They’ve made no changes to the 10R60 parts because it doesn’t happen in these transmissions.
I really appreciate the knowledge you bring to the forum. I’ve seen you on here for years now and I want to let you know your time and willingness to share information is appreciated. Thank you. 🙏

On the 10R60 vs 10R80 confusion…the CDF drum issue was explained to me by the person handling my case at the ford dealership. He’s not the mechanic but works in the service dept…the liaison between the customer and the mechanic.

Has there been any changes to the 10R60 parts/maufacturing process to resolve the rough shifting issues? Is a 10R60 from 2022 (23,24,25) the same transmission as a 2026?
 

Nc211

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I don't buy the excuse about the weight of the tires either. I'm "standard load" 275/65/18, has to be one the lightest tires you can get, and have the 4.27 ratio (rear locker).

I saw something on one of my fb feeds of a shop talking about the valve bodies in all of these 10 speeds from Ford and GM, the issue being a "pulse" setting. Billett has a revised valve body that is DIY (link below) that eliminates that pulsing. I posted about it maybe a year ago for feedback, was sent to the mustang forums, with good reviews. Once my warranty is out, I may give one a try. The fb video (mechanic down in Jacksonville, FL, Royalty Auto I think) mentioned the pulse feature being a key reason for GM's issues with the 10 speed, that and different type of fluid than what Ford uses.

https://nextgendiesel.com/collectio...valve-body-upgrade-kit?variant=44536765677741
 

Ducati1098

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I really appreciate the knowledge you bring to the forum. I’ve seen you on here for years now and I want to let you know your time and willingness to share information is appreciated. Thank you. 🙏

On the 10R60 vs 10R80 confusion…the CDF drum issue was explained to me by the person handling my case at the ford dealership. He’s not the mechanic but works in the service dept…the liaison between the customer and the mechanic.

Has there been any changes to the 10R60 parts/maufacturing process to resolve the rough shifting issues? Is a 10R60 from 2022 (23,24,25) the same transmission as a 2026?
Maybe very minor changes here or there. But most changes, if any, are likely only software related not hardware.

The part number for the 10R60 hasn’t change at all, nor have any of the hard parts inside the transmission that I can see.
 

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23OBX2.7

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I would put on a PPF pan, after flushing trans with full synthetic and drain 7 qt out every 10000 miles or less if in deep water or high stress a lot.

It seems shifting degrades after 10-15K miles which indicated a OEM fluid issue since hard parts wont degrade that fast.
 

Ducati1098

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I would put on a PPF pan, after flushing trans with full synthetic and drain 7 qt out every 10000 miles or less if in deep water or high stress a lot.

It seems shifting degrades after 10-15K miles which indicated a OEM fluid issue since hard parts wont degrade that fast.
I mean to each their own, but that’s really just a giant waste of money.
Transmission issues on 10R’s are never caused by the fluid and ULV lasts a lot longer than 10-15K miles
 

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I mean to each their own, but that’s really just a giant waste of money.
Transmission issues on 10R’s are never caused by the fluid and ULV lasts a lot longer than 10-15K miles
Cant be cooincidence issues at at 10+15K miles that reset doesnt solve...my Mustang 10R80 was a disaster but custom tune solged everything after Ford spent $20K trying to fix at keast I got newest drum.

I would do pan and fluids not a waste since you're set up for next steps if needed and can just drain the ATF into clean jug if need to swap valve body
 

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Ducati1098

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