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Knuckles654

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Hello again Bronco fans! I have good news today. I was correct in my previous post that I recieved a defective rack. I got it's replacement today and installed/programmed it and it works flawlessly w/no error codes in ANY modules! Mine is a 2dr BL 2.3/7mt for reference, and I have only standard options, so my procedure may be complicated by a higher option package, but since @BigMeatsBronco has a fully loaded FE I'm sure workarounds can be had. Here's the simplest procedure I could come up with:

Before you start, connect a battery charger, and make sure the laptop, etc you use for forscan/FDRS is fully charged. If you have installed the new Ford performance tune, or any custom tune, return to stock before starting. If you have recalibrated tire size/gear, return that to original values. Then open forscan and connect to the vehicle as normal. Forscan always asks to save a profile, but this time you really should, and rename it something you will remember...you WILL need it! Once you have done that (WITHOUT disconnecting forscan), unplug your PCM and AWD module. Now go into programming BodyCM in forscan (not asbuilt, just BodyCM configuration). Scroll all the way to the bottom to find three lines labeled VIN. Edit them to change them to the WT 3.0 donor vin we are going to use. Check and double check that all digits are correct, then hit write. Your vehicle is gonna be dinging and bonging and throwing up all kinds of error messages...just ignore. Now if you haven't installed your 3.0 rack yet plug it into the harness, if you went ahead and installed it you are ready for the next step. Close forscan, making sure it has released the J2534 device, and open FDRS. Have FDRS read the vin and make sure it matches your donor vin. I always have to disconnect from the vehicle to get FDRS to download vin info...maybe you won't have that problem, but if you do, just unplug the device from the computer for a second while it downloads, and decodes. Next in toolbox find PSCM>PMI, and download. Plug the J2534 back in (if you had to unplug it before), and run PSCM PMI. Follow the on screen instructions, but when the dialog box asks if the original module is installed select NO. If the application finishes w/no errors you are almost home! PMI should take about 5-10 minutes, but believe me it felt like eternity! Anyhow, on to cleanup...make sure FDRS releases control of the J2534, and close FDRS. Reopen forscan. Forscan will not decode a vehicle w/a disconnected PCM, so when it tells you it can't communicate, it's not really telling you the truth, but that's what it will say, and should open a dialog box and ask you if you want to load a saved profile. Load the one we saved at the beginning. Back to programming, edit BodyCM (non asbuilt). All the way at the bottom of the list, edit the vin back to your own vin, the same way you did earlier. Hit write/verify vin is correct, then key off, plug in PCM and AWD, then back in forscan erase all codes in all modules (which there will be MANY). Now key off/back on and scan all for codes. If yours works out like mine you should be code free and have a working PSCM at this point. If you did this w/out the rack installed yet, and its getting late, you can still plug your original back in and install the rack another time, or if you have it in, its ready for the alignment rack! WOOHOO!

borat-great.gif
I can confirm this process still works and is successful with VXNANO! Just finished digging myself outta the hole I dug… 2 weeks later…

Thx to BMB and Zuke for reaching out to assist a newbie to the forum and total stranger. This just restores my faith in humanity.

@BigMeatsBronco I’m sending that cable back as I had that one already. TY sir!
 

zuke

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I can confirm this process still works and is successful with VXNANO! Just finished digging myself outta the hole I dug… 2 weeks later…

Thx to BMB and Zuke for reaching out to assist a newbie to the forum and total stranger. This just restores my faith in humanity.

@BigMeatsBronco I’m sending that cable back as I had that one already. TY sir!
Awesome, so glad it worked and you were able to confirm the continued viability of the hack...

Pretty sure you're the first confirmed success since Ford started locking all the shit down on their servers.
 

JohnGalt

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Time to pour some fuel on the fire!
in all your steering rack research, do you think it’s possible to reprogram a Ford Performance Hoss 3.0 rack to work correctly in a Bronco Raptor?

i just bought a new BR rack with tie rods for $3k. The Ford Performance severe duty rack w/ tie rods (for Broncos) MT 3200WT is $1340. Its also often on very deep discount.

It would be nice to have a lower cost option for when my rack eats its next belt! Or stuff it in my now empty 74 Weld case

pics for interest…
Ford Bronco Rack-Hack.  HOSS 3.0 severe duty STEERING RACK and TIE RODS ...Ford Performance M-3200-WT IMG_3766
Ford Bronco Rack-Hack.  HOSS 3.0 severe duty STEERING RACK and TIE RODS ...Ford Performance M-3200-WT IMG_3765
 

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Felix808

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After 746 days, a MY22 4-door Badlands Bronco :-)
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in all your steering rack research, do you think it’s possible to reprogram a Ford Performance Hoss 3.0 rack to work correctly in a Bronco Raptor?

i just bought a new BR rack with tie rods for $3k. The Ford Performance severe duty rack w/ tie rods (for Broncos) MT 3200WT is $1340. Its also often on very deep discount.

It would be nice to have a lower cost option for when my rack eats its next belt! Or stuff it in my now empty 74 Weld case

pics for interest…
IMG_3766.webp
IMG_3765.webp
It does look to be different according to Ford Parts Giant. How did that happen?
Warranty possibly?
 
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Felix808

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After 746 days, a MY22 4-door Badlands Bronco :-)
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I would imagine that the BRaptor rack is longer due to the extra 10" track width :unsure:
 

TruckCamper

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I would imagine that the BRaptor rack is longer due to the extra 10" track width :unsure:
Nope. Outer tie rods are longer. (Not sure on inner)

I'm also curious how the Raptor will respond. I know the program is different but there also physical internal differences (so I've been told).

But real question.... can a Hoss 3.0 accept Raptor program and work??

Please do share
 

JohnGalt

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@JohnGalt you were going to be the guinea pig. Just have to plug in a programmed Hoss 1.0 or Hoss 3.0 and see if the codes clear. My FDRS 30 day subscription expired yesterday.
Dang. if there’s a way to do a test and you've got time, I’m generally pretty free. Not familiar with FDRS, i take it Forscan isn’t adequate?

I’m currently finishing the autopsy on the rack and stuffing the guts back into an OEM case to get my core charge back. as far as I can tell either the belt failed on its own or the tensioner (which was still matching its torque marks) wasn’t tensioned. Nothing else apparent.
 

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BigMeatsBronco

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The Braptor rack is already 3.0...the part numbers difference is only the inner tie rods lengths....(and outer tie rod taper) Im certain you can program the WT 3.0 rack to work in a Braptor also certain that the Ranger Raptor ( oem 2.0) accepts Bronco Raptor Rack (3.0 ) for programming, but the tie rods need swapped....of course this is using my VIN swap method, NOT the ford Performance programmer.
 

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The Braptor rack is already 3.0...the part numbers difference is only the inner tie rods lengths....(and outer tie rod taper) Im certain you can program the WT 3.0 rack to work in a Braptor also certain that the Ranger Raptor ( oem 2.0) accepts Bronco Raptor Rack (3.0 ) for programming, but the tie rods need swapped....of course this is using my VIN swap method, NOT the ford Performance programmer.
At this point nobody knows for certain as it hasn't been verified. I'd love to know what works or not. The Raptor racks are crazy expensive.

74weld says they Raptor rack is different both programming and hardware - for whatever that is worth.
 

JohnGalt

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Dorman sells replacement belts, cheap...I kept.my belt from original 2.0 as a.spare.
Good to know. I didn’t see it on Dormans sites tho.

If I was better at diagnosing the original issue, possessed the knowledge of the rack I have now and had the time before my trip, this would have been a pretty simple fix with the rack still in the truck.

It’s the equivalent of doing a stage 1 steering box upgrade. Open up the rack at the motor end, loosen the tensioner bolt, install belt tighten tensioner, seal it up. It would take a little time removing / replacing the skids, passenger inner tie rod and it would need an alignment after but would have been way cheaper, quicker and easier than dealing with my ford dealership. Oh well.
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