Long Range Fuel Tank 30 gallons ordered [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS]

[rayofsi]

Thank you very much for sharing on the forum.


I’m here to answer the questions from vehicle owners.

I completely understand the needs of owners who want to do heavy off-roading and mountain-trail expeditions.


First, the replacement main fuel tank has almost the same bottom height as the OEM fuel tank, and the bottom is reinforced with 5mm thickness.

For daily use and light to moderate off-road driving, there is no problem at all.


The replacement main tank uses all of the OEM mounting points.

To make it compatible with a new skid plate, the mounting layout would need to be redesigned — including new straps, new skid-plate brackets, and reassessing whether existing bolt holes can be reused.


I’ve listed two comparison photos:



The first shows the OEM fuel tank with a skid plate installed.
The second shows the 113L replacement tank without a skid plate.
Their clearance and positioning are nearly identical. If we were to add a skid plate on top of the 113L tank, it would further reduce the lowest point of the fuel tank.
After weighing all factors, we decided not to design a dedicated skid plate for the new replacement tank.
This ultimately comes down to a trade-off.
It’s very difficult to cover every possible usage scenario, so we chose the more balanced approach: reinforcing the tank with a thicker bottom while maintaining ground clearance.

Sharing their response to my question about the fuel tank.

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[swamp2]

Hmmm, "first" and "second" mixed up? The skid plate picture also isn't a Raptor. This just leads to more questions... How much lower is this tank compared to stock?

Either way, 5mm is right about 0.2" thick. Lots of aftermarket skid plates are 0.19 (3/16"). So it seems their choice was pretty reasonably thought out.

@SierraBronco would you be comfortable crawling with a fuel tank whose base is 0.2" thick aluminum? Specifically, would you expect it to dent more that fail and leak fuel?

 

[SierraBronco]

Hmmm, "first" and "second" mixed up? The skid plate picture also isn't a Raptor. This just leads to more questions... How much lower is this tank compared to stock?

Either way, 5mm is right about 0.2" thick. Lots of aftermarket skid plates are 0.19 (3/16"). So it seems their choice was pretty reasonably thought out.

@SierraBronco would you be comfortable crawling with a fuel tank whose base is 0.2" thick aluminum? Specifically, would you expect it to dent more that fail and leak fuel?

Hell-I don’t even know how thick the aluminum is on the NVM skids I currently have on wifey’s rig.

 

[22broncoraptor]

Hell-I don’t even know how thick the aluminum is on the NVM skids I currently have on wifey’s rig.

This is all I'm trying to determine is if there's enough clearance for the Next Venture Motorsports skid plate system to still fit with this aftermarket fuel tank. If so, I'm ordering one.

 

[Tye]

This is all I'm trying to determine is if there's enough clearance for the Next Venture Motorsports skid plate system to still fit with this aftermarket fuel tank. If so, I'm ordering one.

Same!

 

[swamp2]

It sounds to me from post #138 that the becuase of both the tank is lower and perhaps it's use of mounting holes, aftermarket skids will not fit. Maybe @rayofsi can clarify.

I too so want this tank but also don't want to be scared wheeling with it.

 

[gbub]

I saw that it is called an aluminum magnesium alloy. The good wrought alloys have magnesium in them so it is probably one of those. Probably 6061 because it is the least expensive.. In the T6 condition it is strong and fairly tough. In the T4 condition it is not as strong as the T6 but is tougher, meaning that it will deform more before it breaks. My guess is it is in the T4 condition because it is easier to form.

 

[swamp2]

@gbub, Mg is also used in 5000 series alloys which form substantially easier than 6061-T4. If I were a betting man I'd bet it is 5052-H32, a good balance of strength and formability. It forms and resists cracking when forming significantly better than 6061-T4. On the other hand 6061-T4 is significantly stronger.

 

[crenca]

Hmmm, "first" and "second" mixed up?

Yes, based on pics of the product on their website the first pic is their tank and the second is an (unknown to me) aftermarket skid.

@SierraBronco would you be comfortable crawling with a fuel tank whose base is 0.2" thick aluminum?

To answer that question for myself, no. It would take a hit and cave in to some degree within 10 minutes on the first level 5 trail I hit around here. My answer would (probably) be different if it was steel on bottom...

 

[RobWTX]

I have not read this thread in a while, catching up today. All this different "metal talk" of things like 5052-H32 and 6061 reminds me of the History Channel show, Forged in Fire.

 

[SierraBronco]

Yes, based on pics of the product on their website the first pic is their tank and the second is an (unknown to me) aftermarket skid.



To answer that question for myself, no. It would take a hit and cave in to some degree within 10 minutes on the first level 5 trail I hit around here. My answer would (probably) be different if it was steel on bottom...

The biggest thing that initially comes to mind with bare aluminum is how soft it is. Bad for sliding compared to steel and it gets hung up on stuff pretty easily. Steel or UHMW clad aluminum would be my preference.

 

[swamp2]

Looks like a market opportunity for FK or for someone else. I (I am also Engineered Off-Road Systems here on the forum) would be willing to tackle it (scan, design, refine, fabricate, sell). However, due to the very low volume, I would only do it with significant deposits. I would do 5052 with UHMW and all stainless steel hardware.

 

[orion]

Looks like a market opportunity for FK or for someone else. I (I am also Engineered Off-Road Systems here on the forum) would be willing to tackle it (scan, design, refine, fabricate, sell). However, due to the very low volume, I would only do it with significant deposits. I would do 5052 with UHMW and all stainless steel hardware.

Can you machine gears and such? We need someone who can machine a lower low gear ratio for our transfer cases! I don't really want to go higher than my 4.70 in the axles due to pinion size going down and becoming the weak link.

 

[SierraBronco]

Can you machine gears and such? We need someone who can machine a lower low gear ratio for our transfer cases! I don't really want to go higher than my 4.70 in the axles due to pinion size going down and becoming the weak link.

I might be mistaken, but I think @BigMeatsBronco figured out there simply isn’t enough room in the housing for bigger planetary gears in this t-case.

 

[swamp2]

Can you machine gears and such? We need someone who can machine a lower low gear ratio for our transfer cases! I don't really want to go higher than my 4.70 in the axles due to pinion size going down and becoming the weak link.

No. That's very specialized work in terms of materials, tooth geometry, heat treating, finishing, etc. I mean I'm sure by doing enough homework, I could design a successful TC gear, but there must be many who are "ready to make chips" (i.e. start machining).

I'd try pinging @5GENIDN (in another thread or DM ).

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