What offset for this wheel should I order?

[nc-hiker]

I'm planning to upgrade the suspension, wheels, and tires on my 2025 Big Bend and I am curious about how I can figure out which offset I need.

I'm currently thinking to upgrade to the Bilstein B8 6112 (part numbers 47-313996 for front and 47-314009 for rear). I'm thinking to use the Nomad 501SB wheel:

https://www.nomadwheels.com/products/501-convoy-satin-black?variant=42205866590389

I think our Bronco's need the lug pattern 6x139.7 and then I am seeing they come in different offsets of -25, 0, and +10. I understand from prior reading that a positive offset means the wheel is tucked in more than factory and the negative offset means the wheel "pokes" out more than factory. I'm not looking for much if any "poke" and I prefer that my fenders cover the tire. I'd be willing to order the "sasquatch" fenders if necessary.

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[Lowcountry Bronco]

I think you have the offsets backwards:

Sasquatch wheels are +30 for reference.

 

[MachOne]

Wheel offset, wheel width, tread width and flare width will determine how much poke you will have. I just upgraded my Black Diamond to 35x11.5x17 on 8.5 +10 wheels. Stock suspension, no lift, removed crash bars, added Sasquatch flares. Tread is covered with a bit of sidewall poke. Exactly what I wanted.

 

[JL8jeff]

Yeah, it looks like you got the offsets backwards, they show +25, 0 and -10. If you want them tucked in like stock Sas you need the +25. You might need the Sas flares even with those. The 0 offset will give you some poke with the Sas flares and the -10 is around 3/8" more poke than the 0.

Here is 17x8.5 with -10 offset with Sas flares.

Here is 17x9 with 0 offset with Sas flares so 8.5 would be tucked in a little bit more (1/4" more tucked in).

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Wheel width has very little effect on tire poke.
The tiresize.com calculater doesn't even ask for wheel width.

The tread width will be whatever width it is regardless of where the beads land.... within normal wheel parameters.
The placement of the center line in respect to the wheel mounting surface is everything.

Factory is +55mm
Sasquatch is +30mm



If you don't want poke, the +25 will be your best bet.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...no-lift-method-703s-toyo-35-x-11-5-17s.32232/

35 x 11.5
17 x 8.5 +35mm offset

 

[nc-hiker]

Wheel offset, wheel width, tread width and flare width will determine how much poke you will have. I just upgraded my Black Diamond to 35x11.5x17 on 8.5 +10 wheels. Stock suspension, no lift, removed crash bars, added Sasquatch flares. Tread is covered with a bit of sidewall poke. Exactly what I wanted.

What wheel and tire is that?

 

[MachOne]

35x11.5x17 Toyo Open Country 3 AT, load range C, on 17x8.5 +10 Fuel Hype machined wheel.

 

[nc-hiker]

Could I use a narrower tire and thus a zero offset?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Could I use a narrower tire and thus a zero offset?

I provided a link in my post above that gives you a great visual representation as well as descriptive measurements with regards to before/after comparisons.

I strongly suggest you research and learn the technical aspects of this $3000+ custom modification you are about to attempt.


In the mean time .... click, zoom , read ... you tell me what all of this means.
What happened to the outer sidewall of the tire?

I'd also run the same comparison using factory specs as the "original setup" to give you a true baseline of what the various changes are doing.

 

[Jakethesnake]

Wheel offset, wheel width, tread width and flare width will determine how much poke you will have. I just upgraded my Black Diamond to 35x11.5x17 on 8.5 +10 wheels. Stock suspension, no lift, removed crash bars, added Sasquatch flares. Tread is covered with a bit of sidewall poke. Exactly what I wanted.

The more I see chrome wheels the more I want a set. Who makes them

 

[Jakethesnake]

-25
&
+44 wheels

 

[MachOne]

nc-hiker, it would depend on what you want the tire/ wheel combination to look like. If you are looking for a specific amount of poke, or lack thereof, all of the factors I mentioned earlier do, in fact, come into play. Yes, tire tread width is constant, but I do not agree that offset is everything; it is almost everything. I agree that wheel width has little effect, but it can have a slight effect, and when you are chasing 10 or 15 millimeters to achieve your desired look, the centerline between a 7.5" and a 9" wheel definitely has an effect, albeit a minor one.

JL8Jeff's post above clearly illustrates the difference a ½" wheel width and 10 mm offset can make.

If you are wanting to run a 0 offset wheel with the narrow flares, and do not want any poke, I do not think it is possible regardless of the tire.

 

[MachOne]

Jake the snake, if you were asking about the wheels on my pepper red rig, they are aluminum machined 17x8.5 (10mm offset) made by Fuel wheels. That model is called Hype. Most manufacturers have a machined version of most of their wheels, and most of them are clearcoated.

 

[RedWhite&Blue]

I have Nomad Arvo's in 0 offset with 285/75 tires. There is just enough poke for my liking but you could always add the SAS flares if you want the tires to be more flush with the flares. Its all personal preference. The Convoys are pretty nice though...

 

[nc-hiker]

I think you have the offsets backwards:

Sasquatch wheels are +30 for reference.

You're right I copied them wrong. It's +25, 0, and -10 available.

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