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Adding a distribution block to positive side - Pics and Part links appreciated

SierraBronco

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I just looked at the SDHQ description on their website.

If someone is thinking about buying their kit I suggest holding off until I have time to post my thoughts. I have several issues with what they're selling.
My man

Their response reminds me of the answers from portal retailers when asked what the disadvantages are. "You'll need to change the oil on them, but besides that there are no downsides! You really expect us to say anything bad about the thing we are selling? What are you, crazy? Now let's get that credit application filled out."
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centja1

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I made a 1/8" thick aluminum plate that I mounted above the battery with a high amp fuse block so I could power my under-hood compressor. I included a 6 relay fuse box as well and extended the aux switches from the firewall to the plate so I wouldn't be current limited on future accessories.

I'm feeding it through a 200 amp terminal mount fuse that you see on the M6 battery terminal.

Happy to share part links for anything in the picture, but here is the fuse block that is rated for 400 amps continuous, with each of the four MIDI terminals rated for 200 amps continuous.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CND9WKGM

Ford Bronco Adding a distribution block to positive side - Pics and Part links appreciated PXL_20250520_171552132
 
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Shrek27

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I made a 1/8" thick aluminum plate that I mounted above the battery with a high amp fuse block so I could power my under-hood compressor. I included a 6 relay fuse box as well and extended the aux switches from the firewall to the plate so I wouldn't be current limited on future accessories.

I'm feeding it through a 200 amp terminal mount fuse that you see on the M6 battery terminal.

Happy to share part links for anything in the picture, but here is the fuse block that is rated for 400 amps continuous, with each of the four MIDI terminals rated for 200 amps continuous.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CND9WKGM

PXL_20250520_171552132.jpg
Not gonna lie, my head exploded 🤯 when I first saw this, but I think I just might be catching on.

This is impressive! I do like the MIDI fuse block idea. Thanks for the link and pic. I ordered the OEM replacement for the positive terminal so this would allow me to keep the winch direct to the battery on the M6 and run a block for lower amperage devices off the M5 terminal.

Glad this thread also turned into a review of SDHQ's block. There is definitely a void in this space for upgrading this component. Awaiting thoughts from @CalvinT
 

centja1

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Admittedly, there is a bit you can't see that might connect the dots. I made a wiring harness using 6 pin Deutsche connectors and connected it to the 6 Aux wires near the firewall. These six wires go into the 6 relay connectors to switch the relays on an off.

I already have the compressor switch being controlled by Relay 6/Aux 6. The other 5 are empty at the moment

Ford Bronco Adding a distribution block to positive side - Pics and Part links appreciated PXL_20250520_175027754
Ford Bronco Adding a distribution block to positive side - Pics and Part links appreciated PXL_20250520_174852036
Ford Bronco Adding a distribution block to positive side - Pics and Part links appreciated PXL_20250520_174920138
 

Chrome_Pony

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I do remember looking at SDHQ for something but apparently not buying.

I ended up getting a temporary set of terminal adapters from KnuKonceptz. If there's one subset of car enthusiasts who absolutely demand solid electrical connections and transmission lines, its the bassheads. Ended up being temporary because I changed the entire setup later to allow for a 1/0 AWG run upgrade from factory wiring.

https://www.knukonceptz.com/category/battery-terminals/

As a retailer, you could probably get away for years with selling cheapass connections to "overlanders" whose winch might unspool twice in its entire life, but a basshead's car will immediately self-immolate.
 

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Brian_B

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And only rated for 100 amps 😬
Honestly, for a distribution block - that's not bad. You want really high amperage loads to go straight to the battery block anyway, the distribution block just makes it cleaner to tie in the multiple low amp loads (all those lights, radios, etc). Take your winch straight to the battery on one of the 6mm studs, take your air compressor to the 5mm, then pull this 100A bus block off on the second 6mm stud. Then everything else pulls from the block.

That said, you can get 3 600A plated copper blocks from Blue Sea Systems for the same price...
 
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Shrek27

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Some beefier wire and one of the HD blocks you posted will get you right. And an inline fuse.

I just posted it for “inspiration”
I do really like that location for a couple bus bars. Now that I'm repairing the OEM block and leaving the winch direct to that, something like this looks really convenient for adding devices down the road. Even better if I can fit one of those MIDI fused style blocks like @centja1 used over there to tailor the amps per device! Thanks for posting.
 

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Shrek27

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Honestly, for a distribution block - that's not bad. You want really high amperage loads to go straight to the battery block anyway, the distribution block just makes it cleaner to tie in the multiple low amp loads (all those lights, radios, etc). Take your winch straight to the battery on one of the 6mm studs, take your air compressor to the 5mm, then pull this 100A bus block off on the second 6mm stud. Then everything else pulls from the block.

That said, you can get 3 600A plated copper blocks from Blue Sea Systems for the same price...
Agreed, leaning this way once I have the new OEM terminal installed. It only has one M6 and one M5 empty from the factory though. So are you saying to double up somewhere? I won't have onboard air but was planning to wire up an alternator charger and think that should also be on the battery direct. I think it has a 60A fuse (max 50A input to device). I had always thought bus bars were best for low amp loads as well, but seeing dual winches off a 500A bar got me thinking differently and opened up some options.
 
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Shrek27

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Borne product install. At 2:24 they attach to a terminal on the fuse box? Is that another viable direct connection point I've been missing all along??
 

Brian_B

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Agreed, leaning this way once I have the new OEM terminal installed. It only has one M6 and one M5 empty from the factory though. So are you saying to double up somewhere? I won't have onboard air but was planning to wire up an alternator charger and think that should also be on the battery direct. I think it has a 60A fuse (max 50A input to device). I had always thought bus bars were best for low amp loads as well, but seeing dual winches off a 500A bar got me thinking differently and opened up some options.
I don't always remember so good.

No one ever recommends doubling up but, I look at my rig and... I've got no problem doing it myself. triple+ and up, I start to get hesitant though.
 
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Shrek27

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I don't always remember so good.

No one ever recommends doubling up but, I look at my rig and... I've got no problem doing it myself. triple+ and up, I start to get hesitant though.
I think we bounced this around on another battery terminal thread haha you can see I’m over thinking it!

Did you watch that Borne install vid with the fuse box terminal? I never noticed that + sign on there and even if I did woulda felt like a no-no to hook up to it…
 

Brian_B

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Did you watch that Borne install vid with the fuse box terminal? I never noticed that + sign on there and even if I did woulda felt like a no-no to hook up to it…
Have to admit I did not. If you know the timestamp I can go take a look.

That location where they install the bus bars is a great one, I've seen a lot of folks here do very similar things. Mine is wadded up with in-line fuses and zip-tied wire bundles and looks like a cat's butt hole.
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