Fire Extinguisher & Tested / Approved Electrical Parts Compilation Thread

[nolimits]

Some additional sources for weatherpack connectors and SXL wiring.

https://www.wiringdepot.com/2231f-weather-pack-single-cavity-project-kit-14-16ga-2-sets.aspx

https://www.wiringdepot.com/store/c/175-SXL-Cross-Linked-Wire.aspx

Good for many different things but I’m using the weatherpacks for the AUX wiring. I just preferred this to a distribution box yet keeps it easy to swap things around as your build grows & changes. These suckers are pricey if you order in kits from different suppliers but if you don’t mind to make up your own they are only a couple bucks each.

The SXL wire is all copper with good heat & abrasion resistance for smaller gauge wire needs (10-22awg).

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[nolimits]

In my quest to wrap up some projects I needed some fasteners I couldn’t find locally. These guys have a good selection in both metric and standard sizes and have found them pleasurable to work with as well.

https://boltsandnuts.com/

You can buy BY THE PIECE as opposed to packages, if you prefer, or use varying bulk sizing to drive prices lower.

 

[SierraBronco]

In my quest to wrap up some projects I needed some fasteners I couldn’t find locally. These guys have a good selection in both metric and standard sizes and have found them pleasurable to work with as well.

https://boltsandnuts.com/

You can buy BY THE PIECE as opposed to packages, if you prefer, or use varying bulk sizing to drive prices lower.

I actually need a couple bolts I’m having a hard time finding. They’re verified on the grading and not counterfeit?

 

[CalvinT]

I actually need a couple bolts I’m having a hard time finding. They’re verified on the grading and not counterfeit?

I'd also consider mcmaster-carr, www.mcmaster.com. They're my goto if I can't find what I want locally.

 

[nolimits]

I actually need a couple bolts I’m having a hard time finding. They’re verified on the grading and not counterfeit?

Certs are available on request.

They seem legit. I did call and ask a few other questions as this was my first go round with them. Real humans that pick up the phone, have a brain, speak fluent English, etc. They are based out of OH.

Fun video around the 16:20 mark showing a pretty cool setup they did.

I'd also consider mcmaster-carr, www.mcmaster.com. They're my goto if I can't find what I want locally.

Yup, they have most stuff. In my situation I needed about $25 of misc crap. Buying even in small packs through them meant spending way more because I couldn’t buy individual pieces.

One of the quirky things I had a tough time finding locally:

Stainless M6 flange nylok nut
> BN = $0.39/ea
> MC = $14.52 10-pack only ($1.452 ea)

COO for MC is all foreign countries but assume their suppliers still meet certs. BN states they use both domestic and global suppliers but don’t have a COO portion on their website.

https://boltsandnuts.com/shop/m6-1-0-a2-70-stainless-steel-nylon-insert-hex-flange-lock-nuts-386666

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/94710A103

 

[SierraBronco]

Certs are available on request.

They seem legit. I did call and ask a few other questions as this was my first go round with them. Real humans that pick up the phone, have a brain, speak fluent English, etc. They are based out of OH.

Fun video around the 16:20 mark showing a pretty cool setup they did.

Yup, they have most stuff. In my situation I needed about $25 of misc crap. Buying even in small packs through them meant spending way more because I couldn’t buy individual pieces.

One of the quirky things I had a tough time finding locally:

Stainless M6 flange nylok nut
> BN = $0.39/ea
> MC = $14.52 10-pack only ($1.452 ea)

COO for MC is all foreign countries but assume their suppliers still meet certs. BN states they use both domestic and global suppliers but don’t have a COO portion on their website.

https://boltsandnuts.com/shop/m6-1-0-a2-70-stainless-steel-nylon-insert-hex-flange-lock-nuts-386666

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/94710A103

I’ve used McMaster before but I’ll look at these guys. Thanks man!

 

[userdude]

Bolts and Nuts did the storage rack and system for Matt's Off Road Recovery new shop, I believe. Looked pretty nice.

 

[SierraBronco]

Bolts and Nuts did the storage rack and system for Matt's Off Road Recovery new shop, I believe. Looked pretty nice.

So much nicer than the two drawers of random nuts/bolts accumulated over 25 years. “It’s in here somewhere but only if I can find it”

 

[userdude]

So much nicer than the two drawers of random nuts/bolts accumulated over 25 years. “It’s in here somewhere but only if I can find it”

I still have the roofing nail tub (no lid) that I used when I did electrical, uh, twenty years ago . Occasionally I'll dig through it, one time even found what I was looking for! One of those, why haven't I thrown this away yet?!? things that take up space in my garage.

 

[nolimits]

My misc order from BoltsandNuts.com came in. Overall good experience. I was a little surprised to open up and see everything in their own small packs complete with sticker labels and QR codes like the fancy big boy stuff.

FYI, the M8 bolt & nut is for the spare hole on the negative battery terminal. Fits perfect.

 

[SierraBronco]

For the “too long, didn’t read” crowd-set screws for electricity are bad. Get rid of them.

Did some voltage testing while airing up our 40’s before pulling the set screw distribution block in the back and had interesting results. All the set screws were tight, and we lost almost one volt just through that block! That really kind of blew my mind. We caught temperatures on the fuses when airing up and saw 172 degrees max. The compressor hit 204 degrees max temp at the outlet.


The distribution block itself didn’t warm up significantly, (you can see it on the right in the second picture) but the temperature on the fuses make sense when you look at how much voltage was lost.

We replaced the set screw block with a simple terminal style and tested everything again. Voltage loss was negligible and the fuses were about 80 degrees after airing up again. The compressor also dropped significantly in operating temperature. After swapping out the block max compressor teml was 180 after airing up five 40’s. (Buddy had a four hose malfunction so we helped him out)

 

[nolimits]

LOL, never thought I would research wire loom/sleeving in my life. But here we are.

I also stumbled onto this by MGI SpeedWare. They look to be a more direct competitor to Painless and have all sorts of doo hickeys for race car and other auto needs. Their woven sleeve looks really similar to the Painless ClassicWeave. Tighter weave seems like it would be more abrasion resistant but that’s just redneck engineering.

https://mgispeedware.com/product/woven-wire-loom/

Like Painless you can order their stuff online. Unless you need 1,250’ and then you can buy direct. I pray to the car gods I never have any wiring projects that need 1,250’ of sleeving.

https://a.co/d/4Df8RrR

Man this stuff worked out great. I will buy more for any future projects. Used with the Tesa tape I was really pleased and it gave a nice finished factory look to boot.

 

[SierraBronco]

Man this stuff worked out great. I will buy more for any future projects. Used with the Tesa tape I was really pleased and it gave a nice finished factory look to boot.

Nice man! That looks great!

 

[nolimits]

Nice man! That looks great!

Thanks, I appreciate that. I was really happy with everything. Stole your idea of the liquid electrical tape on the relay. I was going to use boots but it wasn’t just very practical. Actually many ideas came from several threads we discussed all this. Appreciate the share of info, it helped a bunch!

FYI, no big fuse in this setup. I’m scheming about onboard air and a rear winch but those are later down the road and when I plan to implement that protection.

Absolutely love having the winch switched so it’s dead until I want/need it.

Here’s a zoomed out view.

 

[SierraBronco]

Thanks, I appreciate that. I was really happy with everything. Stole your idea of the liquid electrical tape on the relay. I was going to use boots but it wasn’t just very practical. Actually many ideas came from several threads we discussed all this. Appreciate the share of info, it helped a bunch!

FYI, no big fuse in this setup. I’m scheming about onboard air and a rear winch but those are later down the road and when I plan to implement that protection.

Absolutely love having the winch switched so it’s dead until I want/need it.

Here’s a zoomed out view.

First thing I saw on that relay was the liquid tape Shit is annoying to apply but once you get a good five coats on there it feels pretty safe.

The relay certainly has a reassuring clunk to it when that sucker turns on. Something I thought of while researching 500A diodes-I built a little jumper lead that can bypass the relay and fuse if need be, just in case either of them goes down and we still need the winch. Just 1/0 that can reach from the terminal block to the discharge side of the fuse. Keep it in the bronco toolkit, just in case.

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