CarbonSteel's 2023 Wildtrak Build + Maintenance Journal (Filters, Fluids, Oil Changes Etc)

[CarbonSteel]

So you also would with the 3.0? I'm torn on the topic. It's very divisive with reasonable arguments on both sides. Any particular brands you like? TIA bud!

Yes; I would because unlike the 2.7L, the 3.0L only has direct injection. I really like the Ford catch can because it appears to be relatively easy to dump/clean.

I have used UPR in the past on my 2019 Wrangler, but I would not recommend them due to the crappy hoses they supply that crack and start leaking.

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[CarbonSteel]

The 3.0 is basically a bored out 2.7. The fuel injection system is the same. (DI and port) In other words, no catch can really necessary like a DI-only FI engine.

Everything that I have read says that unlike the 2.7L upon which the 3.0L is based, the 3.0L is DI only and does not have both MPI and DI.

My sources could be wrong though--do you have any sources that show it has both types of injection?

https://tuningpro.co/the-3-most-common-ford-3-0-ecoboost-engine-problems/

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

Everything that I have read says that unlike the 2.7L upon which the 3.0L is based, the 3.0L is DI only and does not have both MPI and DI.

My sources could be wrong though--do you have any sources that show it has both types of injection?

https://tuningpro.co/the-3-most-common-ford-3-0-ecoboost-engine-problems/

You're right! Braptor is DI only. How silly... Today I learned!

 

[swamp2]

I really like the Ford catch can because it appears to be relatively easy to dump/clean.

Thanks. It looks like FP doesn't make any models for any Broncos. I went with J&L with the oversize can option. I didn't see a lot of reviews but they seem like high quality hoses, nice factory style connectors and a billet can.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Thanks. It looks like FP doesn't make any models for any Broncos. I went with J&L with the oversize can option. I didn't see a lot of reviews but they seem like high quality hoses, nice factory style connectors and a billet can.

???

2.3L = https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-B23

2.7L = https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-B27

3.0L = https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-BW30

 

[Big Pony]

???

2.3L = https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-B23

2.7L = https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-B27

3.0L = https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-BW30

I think some people forget the technical name for these things is “air/oil separator” . Then again, Ford calls skid plates “bash” plates too!

 

[huey]

to those that buy amsoil online.......are you going right to amsoil? I picked an amazon vendor and ordered November 1st. Still don't have the oil.

Can't find the oil locally either

 

[CarbonSteel]

to those that buy amsoil online.......are you going right to amsoil? I picked an amazon vendor and ordered November 1st. Still don't have the oil.

Can't find the oil locally either

I do not use Amsoil engine oil as only the lowest tier carries any certifications, but I do use their gear oil and UOA test kits. I buy those directly from Amsoil via a preferred membership. If you buy a few things a year, the cost of the membership pays for itself.

 

[huey]

I do not use Amsoil engine oil as only the lowest tier carries any certifications, but I do use their gear oil and UOA test kits. I buy those directly from Amsoil via a preferred membership. If you buy a few things a year, the cost of the membership pays for itself.

thx - I'm just looking for the gear oil as well
Not sure why that product is so hard to come by in local stores

 

[CarbonSteel]

thx - I'm just looking for the gear oil as well
Not sure why that product is so hard to come by in local stores

The only auto parts store I have even seen Amsoil in on a regular basis is NAPA, but it is quite a bit more than buying it directly from Amsoil. I typically wait and do bulk purchase and get free shipping that sweetens the deal a bit.

 

[Big Pony]

I do not use Amsoil engine oil as only the lowest tier carries any certifications, but I do use their gear oil and UOA test kits. I buy those directly from Amsoil via a preferred membership. If you buy a few things a year, the cost of the membership pays for itself.

What is your ‘go to’ engine oil for your 2.7L? I was under the impression their signature series engine oil was certified and exceeded OEM specs…

 

[CarbonSteel]

What is your ‘go to’ engine oil for your 2.7L? I was under the impression their signature series engine oil was certified and exceeded OEM specs…

Only Amsoil OE carries any official approvals (their cheapest oil). You have to watch for "weasel words" that Amsoil and a few others use such as "Use AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil in applications that require any of the following specifications" which does not mean approved by or meets the requirements of the following specifications. They give a really lame answer as to why all of their oils are not API licensed:

If all AMSOIL motor oils were API licensed, the company could not source new raw materials from multiple suppliers, which would greatly increase the threat of supply disruption and the likelihood of extraordinarily high prices. To solve this problem, the API must establish base stock interchange guidelines for synthetic base stocks just as they have for other base stocks, as well as develop interchange guidelines for other components too. Furthermore, licensing formulas limits the ability to quickly adopt new technologies as they are discovered; each variation from the originally licensed formula requires re-submission for complete engine testing.

Funny how all other oil manufacturers and even "rebottlers" have API certifications on their oil. Even the cheapest SuperTech at Walmart has it so, that answer leaves me questioning Amsoil's true intentions.

With that said, it is good oil and I have never heard of any engine failures running Amsoil oil, but I do not see the value proposition in paying $16 per qt for an oil that will have to be changed in 5K or so miles due to fuel dilution.

I run Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 year round. It is an European type oil that carries many stringent approvals including MB, Porsche, and VW, meets API SP and ACEA C3. It has held up very well to the fuel dilution my 2.7L produces and remains in grade (i.e. stays a xW-30 viscosity) for the entire run unlike Motorcraft 5W-30 that was an xW-20 in less than 1,000 miles.

 

[Big Pony]

Only Amsoil OE carries any official approvals (their cheapest oil). You have to watch for "weasel words" that Amsoil and a few others use such as "Use AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil in applications that require any of the following specifications" which does not mean approved by or meets the requirements of the following specifications. They give a really lame answer as to why all of their oils are not API licensed:

If all AMSOIL motor oils were API licensed, the company could not source new raw materials from multiple suppliers, which would greatly increase the threat of supply disruption and the likelihood of extraordinarily high prices. To solve this problem, the API must establish base stock interchange guidelines for synthetic base stocks just as they have for other base stocks, as well as develop interchange guidelines for other components too. Furthermore, licensing formulas limits the ability to quickly adopt new technologies as they are discovered; each variation from the originally licensed formula requires re-submission for complete engine testing.

Funny how all other oil manufacturers and even "rebottlers" have API certifications on their oil. Even the cheapest SuperTech at Walmart has it so, that answer leaves me questioning Amsoil's true intentions.

With that said, it is good oil and I have never heard of any engine failures running Amsoil oil, but I do not see the value proposition in paying $16 per qt for an oil that will have to be changed in 5K or so miles due to fuel dilution.

I run Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 year round. It is an European type oil that carries many stringent approvals including MB, Porsche, and VW, meets API SP and ACEA C3. It has held up very well to the fuel dilution my 2.7L produces and remains in grade (i.e. stays a xW-30 viscosity) for the entire run unlike Motorcraft 5W-30 that was an xW-20 in less than 1,000 miles.

Appreciate the great answer, as usual! Very true about their ridiculous high prices too. You’d think with their reputation the least they could do is certify all their lubricant products and not cherry pick which ones get the certification. Guess it’s all about the money!

PS: That AMSOIL explanation quoted left me with fewer neurons lol. Geez

 

[TideTurner]

I did 6 plus 5 ounces of LubeGrad Red. On a cold fill, that put me right at 4 on the dipstick. When I started the project, car was cold, and checked the fluid level.... It was right on the #2 mark! So...two diff's and a transfer case undefiled, and a transmission overfilled. It's driving / rolling extremely well now. Just glides along, barely any pressure on the gas peddle and off she goes. I'm talking pinky toe pressure on the gas, and it goes. Shifts smooth as glass now (not that it wasn't before, but more-so now). I can tell you the filter was pretty nasty looking.

Replacing the pan is a process for sure. Just tight in certain areas, and prone to a massive mess of fluid, bit of a juggling act. Torqued the bolts back on with the new pan at 9lbs (manual called for 8-10lb, split the middle). Absolutely be careful on torquing!! You can just feel how badly they want to strip out if you're too aggressive.

Will need to remove the two bolts on the transmission mount, and raise up the transmission via floor jack (I added 3 2x4's pieces screwed together for leverage). I raised it via the transfer case maybe 2-3 inches to get the PPE pan to go on. It won't fit without raising it due to the exhaust pipe running along the back edge of the pan.

8MM, 10MM, 13MM, 19MM - are your bolt sizes for the whole job. Deep socket preferred, but shallow as well. 8MM flat wrench needed for the two corner bolts furthest towards the back of the car. The one on the driver's side is a royal pain to get at. If I had to do it again, I would raise it up first.

End of the day, I am very happy I did this. Cost probably around $600 all-in for fluids, tools, pan, etc. Plan now is every 15k miles (or so) to drain and fill. Now that the initial wear-in materials are out of the system and a new filter, I won't mess with a new filter for probably 50k miles, unless if the schedule calls for an earlier replacement cycle. Attached are photos of the old / new filter. The inside of the old was very "gritty".

Many thanks you guys for all of the info and guidance!!!

Getting ready to install the PPE deep pan but haven’t seen I would need to lift the trans to get the it in (I’ve read through the workshop manual specs for the stock pan but maybe there is something different about the PPE?) Did you do this to get the bolts in easier with the exhaust there or was there another reason. Would really like to avoid this if possible.

Thanks

 

[CarbonSteel]

Getting ready to install the PPE deep pan but haven’t seen I would need to lift the trans to get the it in (I’ve read through the workshop manual specs for the stock pan but maybe there is something different about the PPE?) Did you do this to get the bolts in easier with the exhaust there or was there another reason. Would really like to avoid this if possible.

Thanks

You simply need to let the front of the pan drop down and then rotate it to get it out.

You do not have to lift the transmission.

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