CarbonSteel's 2023 Wildtrak Build + Maintenance Journal (Filters, Fluids, Oil Changes Etc)

[Nc211]

7 quarts at least on a pan/filter refill?

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[Nc211]

Should I be concerned there were shards of metal in my old pan with only 4k miles on the car? Or chalk it up to break-in? Not abused by any means.

 

[Nc211]

@CarbonSteel where can I find the Ford "candycane" transmission filler tool? I've found a few similar but want to make sure the curve isn't too high to get in the fill.

I bought mine from the link below. Saved a couple of bucks and bought a used one instead of a new one. Took about a week to get to me. https://www.freedomracing.com/transmission-fill-tube-307-570-u.html

I got a lot more google hits when I searched for "307-570u" to find suppliers.

If you go to Lowes and buy some 5/16th clear tubing, it will fit perfectly over the bottom the candy cane to make it much easier to use from whatever pressurized fill container you choose.

 

[CarbonSteel]

7 quarts at least on a pan/filter refill?

Give or take --depends on how long it drains.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Should I be concerned there were shards of metal in my old pan with only 4k miles on the car? Or chalk it up to break-in? Not abused by any means.

Likely normal break-in metal, but good reason to do a dump and fill.

 

[Nc211]

Give or take --depends on how long it drains.

I did 6 plus 5 ounces of LubeGrad Red. On a cold fill, that put me right at 4 on the dipstick. When I started the project, car was cold, and checked the fluid level.... It was right on the #2 mark! So...two diff's and a transfer case undefiled, and a transmission overfilled. It's driving / rolling extremely well now. Just glides along, barely any pressure on the gas peddle and off she goes. I'm talking pinky toe pressure on the gas, and it goes. Shifts smooth as glass now (not that it wasn't before, but more-so now). I can tell you the filter was pretty nasty looking.

Replacing the pan is a process for sure. Just tight in certain areas, and prone to a massive mess of fluid, bit of a juggling act. Torqued the bolts back on with the new pan at 9lbs (manual called for 8-10lb, split the middle). Absolutely be careful on torquing!! You can just feel how badly they want to strip out if you're too aggressive.

Will need to remove the two bolts on the transmission mount, and raise up the transmission via floor jack (I added 3 2x4's pieces screwed together for leverage). I raised it via the transfer case maybe 2-3 inches to get the PPE pan to go on. It won't fit without raising it due to the exhaust pipe running along the back edge of the pan.

8MM, 10MM, 13MM, 19MM - are your bolt sizes for the whole job. Deep socket preferred, but shallow as well. 8MM flat wrench needed for the two corner bolts furthest towards the back of the car. The one on the driver's side is a royal pain to get at. If I had to do it again, I would raise it up first.

End of the day, I am very happy I did this. Cost probably around $600 all-in for fluids, tools, pan, etc. Plan now is every 15k miles (or so) to drain and fill. Now that the initial wear-in materials are out of the system and a new filter, I won't mess with a new filter for probably 50k miles, unless if the schedule calls for an earlier replacement cycle. Attached are photos of the old / new filter. The inside of the old was very "gritty".

Many thanks you guys for all of the info and guidance!!!

 

[CarbonSteel]

I did 6 plus 5 ounces of LubeGrad Red. On a cold fill, that put me right at 4 on the dipstick. When I started the project, car was cold, and checked the fluid level.... It was right on the #2 mark! So...two diff's and a transfer case undefiled, and a transmission overfilled. It's driving / rolling extremely well now. Just glides along, barely any pressure on the gas peddle and off she goes. I'm talking pinky toe pressure on the gas, and it goes. Shifts smooth as glass now (not that it wasn't before, but more-so now). I can tell you the filter was pretty nasty looking.

Replacing the pan is a process for sure. Just tight in certain areas, and prone to a massive mess of fluid, bit of a juggling act. Torqued the bolts back on with the new pan at 9lbs (manual called for 8-10lb, split the middle). Absolutely be careful on torquing!! You can just feel how badly they want to strip out if you're too aggressive.

Will need to remove the two bolts on the transmission mount, and raise up the transmission via floor jack (I added 3 2x4's pieces screwed together for leverage). I raised it via the transfer case maybe 2-3 inches to get the PPE pan to go on. It won't fit without raising it due to the exhaust pipe running along the back edge of the pan.

8MM, 10MM, 13MM, 19MM - are your bolt sizes for the whole job. Deep socket preferred, but shallow as well. 8MM flat wrench needed for the two corner bolts furthest towards the back of the car. The one on the driver's side is a royal pain to get at. If I had to do it again, I would raise it up first.

End of the day, I am very happy I did this. Cost probably around $600 all-in for fluids, tools, pan, etc. Plan now is every 15k miles (or so) to drain and fill. Now that the initial wear-in materials are out of the system and a new filter, I won't mess with a new filter for probably 50k miles, unless if the schedule calls for an earlier replacement cycle. Attached are photos of the old / new filter. The inside of the old was very "gritty".

Many thanks you guys for all of the info and guidance!!!

Look at the metal on the filter magnet. Lifetime fill my a$$

 

[mikec426]

I did 6 plus 5 ounces of LubeGrad Red. On a cold fill, that put me right at 4 on the dipstick. When I started the project, car was cold, and checked the fluid level.... It was right on the #2 mark! So...two diff's and a transfer case undefiled, and a transmission overfilled. It's driving / rolling extremely well now. Just glides along, barely any pressure on the gas peddle and off she goes. I'm talking pinky toe pressure on the gas, and it goes. Shifts smooth as glass now (not that it wasn't before, but more-so now). I can tell you the filter was pretty nasty looking.

Glad no one defiled your diffs and transfer case. And what filter is this?

 

[Nc211]

Glad no one defiled your diffs and transfer case. And what filter is this?

Ha! "under-filled". Stupid autocorrect (and transmission fluid on fingers)!

The filter is a new one from the parts counter at the dealership. Was hesitant at first to replace mine since it was only 4,000 miles on the car in general, figured long from needing it, as it was $100. Then changed my mind and glad I did. Clear to me it filled up pretty quickly with gunk during break-in period.

Those black spots are indeed metal shavings attached to the magnet that is inside the filter. They wiped right off like sludge. The old pan had a magnet too, and it was pretty heavy in the sludge as well. But what was interesting to me is the glitter shavings / specs in the bottom of the old pan that did not attach to the magnet. Definitely didn't want those floating through the system unobstructed and clogging up shift solenoid screens (assuming solenoids have screens too?)

Can see the old pan magnet and what ½ a wipe looked like from it below..

 

[Nc211]

Look at the metal on the filter magnet. Lifetime fill my a$$

I agree! Lifetime is probably they're hope so then can soak thousands out of you later for repairs/replacements. Given how mine was either under-filled and/or over-filled, my tin foil hat self is beginning to wonder if not intentional. Diffs/transfer filled enough to operate fine for a while, and trans fluid filled to increase pressure on internal seals and whatnot. Hate to think like that though, but never forgot the nylon bearings in power steering pumps/alternators in the 90's from GM either.

Uncle was a serious pilot (747 captain for UPS). When he died two years ago, he still had perfectly running cars with over 500k on them from the 80's. A Chevy Astro minivan pulled a horse trailer for nearly 40 years. Always said to me "fluids are the key to all of it".

 

[Desertmountains]

Love this thread, thank you! Most of these photos don’t make any sense to me but the information is priceless.

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

I almost wish I didn't see the contents of this thread... I was happy installing the trans skid to protect it and not feeling the need to change trans pans. Now seeing the stuff inside...? Feeling different
To me the biggest PITA of trans fluid swap is the level checking. If it was just a fill till weep like differentials, I'd be a happy man.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I almost wish I didn't see the contents of this thread... I was happy installing the trans skid to protect it and not feeling the need to change trans pans. Now seeing the stuff inside...? Feeling different
To me the biggest PITA of trans fluid swap is the level checking. If it was just a fill till weep like differentials, I'd be a happy man.

It's not that bad if you have some kind of gloved gauntlet to put over your hand to protect your forearm and wrist from the exhaust pipe. The expansion rate though on the ULV fluid is pretty crazy so I would go to 5 on the dipstick; cold and idling in park. Let it warm up and check it it, it'll probably be between 4 and 3.

 

[Nc211]

I personally think the gunk I found in mine, is probably no different than any other brand new car. If you get it out at 5k or it stays in there for 50k+ miles, I think the majority of all of it happens in the initial few thousand miles for wear-in. I probably would not have done this if I didn’t really want a drain plug in my transmission pan in general. If it had come with one, then I doubt I would have ever opened it up and replaced the filter myself, I would’ve likely just done the drain/fill. Unless if I have a problem with the transmission in the future, I’ll likely not replace the filter again for many more years.

 

[Nc211]

One side-effect of project is the lingering stink. It's a mess of a project to drain the old fluid out, it gets everywhere......including across the top of an exhaust pipe that runs right underneath the back part of the pan. I wiped it all down with a rag and 409 the best I could when I was done, but still enduring the stink of transmission fluid residue on an exhaust pipe now. Just have to live with it until it finally burns itself off I guess. I did take the car this morning to a DIY car wash and put the wand underneath in the area the best that I could, hopefully that will help.

It's shifting perfectly now. Granted, she's no 4 speed Lexus, but I can't complain either for what she is. I think these days with these modern 7+ gear automatics, their true weakness is when you're puttering around at like 30mph or so....in 6th friggin' gear and going up/down the ladder all the time. Nothing terribly noticeable, but the occasional hiccup is felt. Same as before the change too. But when accelerating, I feel 0% on the gear shifts. Just the annoyingly even-level drone of the engine that makes you wonder if you're driving a CVT sometimes!

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