Current updated settings.
Do you get a good amount of kick bass/mids from the gs42 in the rear? I have these up front in the dash but I just bought gs 60’s for the kick panel, and really want to do the gs10 tweeters for the dash. The 42’s are hella expensive and better then the crappy kickers I have in the pods right now so I would rather replace them with the 42’sNother stereo thread. This won’t be a install, just products used, wiring method, and settings in amp dsp. Should be easy tuning if you use the same equipment and settings.
-Front 4” Audio frog GS42 $299
-Back 4” Audio frog GS42 $299
-Kick panels Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 MKII $329
-Metra 72-5602 Speaker Wiring Harness - Front x2 $12.99
-JL Audio VX700/5i $1399
- JL Audio CS110LG-TW1-2 $449
- JL Audio DRC-205
- RCA connector to speaker wire adapter. 3 set or 6 ends total 9.99 set
- speaker wire I went with 14ga. Takes about 120’ total for install.
- 4ga wiring kit. Has to be 4 ga. Anything smaller will cut out. I tried. I did not use any butt connectors. Everything was soldered and shrunk
Comes in right at the 3k mark. I also added killmat for sound deadening while I had the rear apart. Takes 3 18sqft kits. Can also add some of this inside all the speaker housings with some floss too. Really helps the sound out. My usual is mat on whats flat I can reach. Floss tight around the sides, then some loose in the middle.
I mounted my amp and sub on the rear tailgate so wire length may very. I mounted both to the tail gate table. Reason I did this is so it can be removed in 5 minutes if wanted. Plus with the amp as far back as can be relocating will require cutting no wires. If I decide I want to drop it behind a panel
I ran individual new wires to all speakers installed. Bypassed all of fords wiring.
To start, strip the interior from kick panels to Ass end both sides. Pretty easy to do. Takes about 20 minutes.
To wire the rears I pulled the plastic air bag curtain covers off, then the rear bar plastic. I then ran new wire across the cage and drilled a 1/2” hole in the side, metals thick, will take a minute. Then dropped both those down so they popped out by the tail light. On the speaker housing itself I removed fords wiring harness. Cut the cone shaped rubber plug down the side to remove the original wire. Then tied a knot in the speaker cable, sat that back into the grommet and reinstalled that back into the rear housings.
Audio frogs were installed in fronts and rears. Front and backs tied together. So that cover 4 speakers on channel 1 and 2. Had to use clips to mount the 4” properly. Channel 3 and 4 will be run to the morels in the kick panels. When mounting the morels you will need to trim the circle plastic on the back of the grill covers. It trims right off with a razor knife, 5 and 6 to the sub.
For inputs I used the kick panel speakers with the white and black speaker harness adapters. For termination wire 3 rca’s per to split the signal for the channels. So that’s 3 rca’s coming off 1 input wire. Remote wire was hooked up to the white and orange stripe behind the side rear panel in front of the tail light. Is accessory switched.
205 (amp remote) is highly recommended to adjust base on the fly. For that I pulled the window switches out, drilled a 5/8 hole then brought the wire in under the rubber flooring into the rear of the console, it’s open under it.
Once that done we’re gonna grab the computer and set the amp up. When it asks select 5/1 mode. In inputs set them at 2 for all 3. Default is 7. This is the strength of the incoming signal. Then match gains and cross over setting in the pics and you should be good to go. Specifically looking at cross over frequency and gain adjustments in the pics.
Also the 205 remote ring color is changed thru the preset button in the top left corner in the tun 4 program. Default is red, select a different preset color to change the ring color. Remember to save to amp after that.
Overall I am extremely happy with this setup. Loud and bright with mids and snap you can feel. Bass is not overly boomy with the sealed 10 and can tweak that on the 205 dial for whatever music you’re listening to. I would not hesitate to recommend this set up for the price. I know everyone has their favorite brand, this is just what I picked out.
It has a open feel to it with this setup. My burban with its bose system can seem stuffy at times. If my bose system is a 10 the bronco system would be a 16. Stock bronco 6 speaker would rate a 2-3. Also remember. With tops and roof off most the bass will blow out the back. So it may sound bass weak in the drivers seat but that bass is now following behind the bronco.
I wouldn’t say good bass but they sound full. They have kick to them. Much as they would take per the adjustments in the amp. Fronts are hooked to the rears for 2 channel setup. Sounds balanced.
When you say fronts are hooked to rears is the dash speaker that are hooked to rears or both fronts are hooked to the rears?that’s an intriguing setup. Did you wire the dash and rears in parallel ?
I ran new wires for everything on a 5.1. So the right front and rear are on channel 1, left side channel 2, kicks on 3 and 4 since they were capable of holding a lot more power. Then pulled signal from the kicks for the amp.
Should work. Matches the specs.
Would be great for making drinks while tailgating. Lower the table and play some Dynamix II
Alright last question. Appreciated your responses. Would you see any value in an 8 channel amp powering all the speakers and bridging 7-8 for a sub? I like your idea but wiring the front dash’s to the pods seems rather involved. May end up doing it anyways since the amp I am looking at is 100 per channel so better speaker wire would probably need to be upgraded from the stock
Yeah. Would give you more control. And I did bigger wire all the way around
Would you say the dsp is worth it? The 8 channel I’m looking at has no dsp and adding one is big cost. The 6 channel with a dsp might be a better option if the dsp makes a difference
Dsp made all the difference in the world. I could adjust each channel and every detail of it.
Time alignment on its own is worth the price of entry...
