Some stock suspension calculations and measurements

[zuke]

Also, Are you going to be running 9" wide rims? If you go down to an 8.5, that cuts the backspace so the tire is only about 8~12mm further in the wheel well than mine...

If you go with a 37x11.5r17, You could even drop down to an 8 inch rim... But there aren't a lot of choices in that size...

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[Fordified1]

My future plan (at least a year away) is the max clearance kit and 1.5” body lift for 37’s with 0 offset. Though I may try my current +13 offset 17x9”wheels first. Hoss 3.0 rack would come first.

 

[mpeugeot]

My future plan (at least a year away) is the max clearance kit and 1.5” body lift for 37’s with 0 offset. Though I may try my current +13 offset 17x9”wheels first. Hoss 3.0 rack would come first.

I think with the max clearance kit that you will be good to go (based on the experiences of others). I was planning on trying 37s on my 17x9 +30 RTR rims, because with just the Badlands shocks and springs, I have more than enough room for 35s already (my 33.5 inch tires have all sorts of room to flop about) adding another 2-3" of lift and a 2" body kit seems like overkill, although I might need a zero offset rim.

 

[Fordified1]

I think with the max clearance kit that you will be good to go (based on the experiences of others). I was planning on trying 37s on my 17x9 +30 RTR rims, because with just the Badlands shocks and springs, I have more than enough room for 35s already (my 33.5 inch tires have all sorts of room to flop about) adding another 2-3" of lift and a 2" body kit seems like overkill, although I might need a zero offset rim.

Was thinking I’d adjust the springs down an inch. Idea in my head was keep axle and steering angles better and get ground clearance with the tires and fender clearance with a small body lift. It sucks when you think you have plenty of tire clearance and then you flex it out in a tough place turning close to full-lock and a tire is eating up a fender, and the jeep behind you wonders why you have to back up lol, or power through and straighten sheet metal later lol.

 

[Fordified1]

You really need to find someone already running the setup you propose, and that's always a challenge.

And has that person really flexed it out with the sway bar disconnected. I see lots of posts “I have such and such with this and that and no rub”. But has it really ever been in the rocks with no sway bar?

 

[Merc4x4]

RE: track bar and lift
After putting on an Icon lift I get annoying rear bump steer. I don't have a track bar riser bracket yet, but it is my next mod. This is something I feel every day, every drive. The more I read, the more I understand most people with lifts experience this. I run 1 click harder in the rear to tame it down some. People around here say the riser bracket helps a lot.
Bilsteins are usually progressive valved, that may tame it more than the Fox/King/Icon.
If the riser bracket doesn't help enough, I will go with the triangulated 4 link conversion if the reviews are solid.

RE: wheel offset / fitting 37's
Carli found stock Sasquatch offset (+30mm) fit better with 37's than 0mm offset. But they had already fit the ADV fenders.
https://www.carlisuspension.com/ford-bronco-rd/

Bradley Thornton took a lot of pics fitting 37's, tried a couple sizes of wheel spaces. (I need to re-read this thread)
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...asquatch-badlands-no-lift-build-thread.26479/

If your shocks compress more than stock Sasquatch, you'll also need to worry about hitting the top of the fender. I think a small body lift might be the easy solution there.

I decided on the Lobo crash bar delete kit, as it also braces the bumper mount. It doesn't include the bracket for the rear of the fender when removing the plastic piece, though, like the JKS kit does.
https://lobooffroad.com/product/crash-bar-erase-brace-kit-bronco/

So many posts on 37's yet there doesn't seem to be a consensus on what "fits". I'm going to try the Sasquatch wheels and MT Baja Boss AT's, the Lobo crash bar delete and see what rubs. I don't want to go wider with offset or spacer if I don't have to.
I may end up with a 1" body lift to retain all the up travel of the Icons.

 

[87-Z28]

RE: track bar and lift
After putting on an Icon lift I get annoying rear bump steer. I don't have a track bar riser bracket yet, but it is my next mod. This is something I feel every day, every drive. The more I read, the more I understand most people with lifts experience this. I run 1 click harder in the rear to tame it down some. People around here say the riser bracket helps a lot.
Bilsteins are usually progressive valved, that may tame it more than the Fox/King/Icon.
If the riser bracket doesn't help enough, I will go with the triangulated 4 link conversion if the reviews are solid.

RE: wheel offset / fitting 37's
Carli found stock Sasquatch offset (+30mm) fit better with 37's than 0mm offset. But they had already fit the ADV fenders.
https://www.carlisuspension.com/ford-bronco-rd/

Bradley Thornton took a lot of pics fitting 37's, tried a couple sizes of wheel spaces. (I need to re-read this thread)
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...asquatch-badlands-no-lift-build-thread.26479/

If your shocks compress more than stock Sasquatch, you'll also need to worry about hitting the top of the fender. I think a small body lift might be the easy solution there.

I decided on the Lobo crash bar delete kit, as it also braces the bumper mount. It doesn't include the bracket for the rear of the fender when removing the plastic piece, though, like the JKS kit does.
https://lobooffroad.com/product/crash-bar-erase-brace-kit-bronco/

So many posts on 37's yet there doesn't seem to be a consensus on what "fits". I'm going to try the Sasquatch wheels and MT Baja Boss AT's, the Lobo crash bar delete and see what rubs. I don't want to go wider with offset or spacer if I don't have to.
I may end up with a 1" body lift to retain all the up travel of the Icons.

lots of good info here. Thanks.

 

[Fordified1]

Have any of y’all completely removed your front sway bar?

 

[87-Z28]

I did for a couple days. Did not like it. I actually like the response of the heavy OEM bar on the road. Maybe I drive to fast.

I am thinking about adding a rear sway bar and one of the lighter bars upfront to get a bit more articulation in the front. Not sure how this would feel on the road.

 

[Fordified1]

I did for a couple days. Did not like it. I actually like the response of the heavy OEM bar on the road. Maybe I drive to fast.

I am thinking about adding a rear sway bar and one of the lighter bars upfront to get a bit more articulation in the front. Not sure how this would feel on the road.

That’s probably a good plan.
Our Gladiator felt really wonky with the front sway bar disconnected, almost dangerous. I have gotten used to the Bronco with the front sway bar gone pretty quickly. The wife didn’t even notice the difference but she has only a few miles behind the wheel. I agree, if you like fast corners and quick lane changes a sway bar feels more stable, although I also drive fast, it just takes getting used to. We just don’t daily drive this so, I took it all the way off after testing it disconnect for a couple days, and damn it’s heavy.

 

[87-Z28]

Yeah. I am 90% on the road. My German shepherd comes along 75% of the time. He likes to straddle the center counsel to look out the front window. It was a good old time with the sway bar off. I really like the oem on road driving response. That is main reason I didn’t get a Jeep.

Trying to balance oem response and improved off road response. So I have been trying to get better understanding of ford design thresholds. If I was 50/50 on/off road I would have a different strategy.

 

[Merc4x4]

I did for a couple days. Did not like it. I actually like the response of the heavy OEM bar on the road. Maybe I drive to fast.

I am thinking about adding a rear sway bar and one of the lighter bars upfront to get a bit more articulation in the front. Not sure how this would feel on the road.

I forget about all the different suspension configurations. I also don't have a rear sway bar and am thinking adding one might tame the bump steer a bit.

Carli is running Kings with their tune, no track bar riser bracket, and no rear sway bar. They say they don't feel the need for a track bar riser.
Maybe I'm just being super picky. lol

 

[tobyw]

This is a FANTASTIC thread... Thank you to those that have done the math and reported actual conditions to help verify and back into it!!

Here is my current status and results: 2022 4-door Wildtrak with SVC perch collars and a 3/8" top hat spacer. The SVC perch collars measure 1.5", so quick math says they should net around 2-1/4" over stock (1.5" x 1.5 ratio = 2.25"). The 3/8" top hat spacer, which is just half of a cheap Amazon spacer lift, should net 9/16" over stock (0.375" x 1.5 ratio = 0.5625"). So my total lift should be 2.25" + 0.5625" = 2.8125", or 2-13/16". In reality, I'm seeing 3-3/4"

I also fabricated a diff drop that drops the CV centerline approximately 1", but that doesn't impact lift height obviously, just the CV angle measurement seen below... Here are my current angle measurements at right height (pay no attention to the color and stickers on the struts, mine just needed repainted but they are OEM Wildtrak):

And my before/after front fender measurements for additional overall context:

I haven't bothered shopping for an alignment shop yet because I need to get things sorted out here... I'm OK with the CV angle at ride height, but I have almost NO droop travel available based on the TR angle I'm seeing, and quite honestly I'm stumped as to why my 1.5" tall perch collars are giving me over 3" lift...

 

[87-Z28]

I suppose you had to pull the springs off to get the collars on and apply the preload. Probably just needs to seat the springs and settle a bit. When I put my 6100 bilsteins on they settled a good 1/2 - 3/4” after a few days. Did you just do this lift?

are the rear collars 2” tall? Did they give about 2” of lift?

 

[87-Z28]

Sorry forgot add you. @tobyw

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