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That’s the other issue, all the conflicting info regarding the ride with perch collars, most I’ve heard the do make a difference and I e even here people say it was bad enough that they removed them.
I do know these Fox shocks are position sensitive so regardless if you notice most of the time it does affect the shocks to push them out of their intended ride zone. You do need negative travel for your wheels to conform to dips in the road/trail, perch collars remove down travel that you need.
I do know these Fox shocks are position sensitive so regardless if you notice most of the time it does affect the shocks to push them out of their intended ride zone. You do need negative travel for your wheels to conform to dips in the road/trail, perch collars remove down travel that you need.
Most people don’t realize that most 35s and 37s are load d and e rated tires. Meant for heavy big 250 and 350 trucks. Those are like Rolling Stones on a light weight small truck. You have to run then at low psi or rattle your teeth out. That’s specifically why the bfg ko2 37 on the raptor bronco and truck is a c rated tire. And specifically made for them. It makes a big difference. The rpg collar in the front is barely a half inch thick. The rear is under a half inch. It’s not a ton of preload.
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True, this is another thing I’m looking at closely as I have new wheels and even though I’m sticking with 35’s I want something a bit more aggressive looking than the stock SAS Goodyears, those Goodyears are the lightest 35” equivalent tire you can find, most of the Mud terrain tires are 20+ lbs heavier, it’s hard to find something that is going to match the ride quality of these on a Bronco. That extra weight definitely affects the suspension damping, too much extra weight it’s going to ride bad just due to that.
run the bfg k02 37. Ita tad larger then an 35 but not by much. I ran them with no lift on 0 offset wheels had 0 rub. Other then that the only agressive c rated 35 I know of is made by general and I think they make the bfg mud terrain in a c.
I would endorse this if you really don’t want to go big. Run these in a C load rating and still chalk test the tires. You’ll be surprised how much of a difference the psi makes and how little you need relative to the door jam.
You can start with any tire by calculating the load distribution numbers published by the manufacturer per psi. Use your GVW and work backwards. Start with that and then still chalk test for even wear.
My Falken WildPeak AT3Ws in a 37/12.5/17 D load range are happiest at about 27/28 up front and 25/26 out back depending on the cargo weight. Off road is a totally different story. You can easily drop those numbers and have a crazy plush ride. The increased tire size helps a lot when you have the extra sidewall and stiffness to work with.
Yea I hear the same. Maybe it's because 8m a racecar and buggy 4x4 guy and very in tune with the way my vehicles feel\sound, or maybe something's weird about my collars, who knows.
Yea fox, factory 35's still. 36ish #.
Like I said, on road, zero changes, but when I cross railroad tracks or go over a speed bump with some speed, can definitely tell a difference
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I’m with you… The Fox’s rode great STOCK, as that’s what they are tuned for. However, once I added a winch bumper, rock sliders, rear bumper/tire carrier, and skids my WT rode like an old Cadillac and sagged nearly 1”. It floated about in slow-mo and hit the bump stops on anything moderate. I could tell I was out of the sweet spot the Fox’s/springs were tuned for. It was only going to get worse with perch collars.
Maybe I’m more in-tune with my butt-o-meter too
, given the various rides I’ve built before… The collars are probably fine for looks or if you’re leaving it completely stock.Otherwise, you might be able to experiment per your setup and fit new HD springs from Eibach or Dobinsons, several have, and get it where you like it. I didn’t want to experiment, removing the Fox’s multiple times and trial/error of trying different springs for my setup. I went with ADS coilovers and have been really happy with the functionality and ride. I can adjust them without removing, just have to remove a wheel and droop the suspension to relieve pressure, then adjust with spanner. Ride is better than the Fox’s were when It was stock, was too soft in the rear and would squat on hard acceleration in Sport or with hardly any weight. With ADS I can adjust height for the perfect rake (or no rake) and weight, as well as tune the ride further with the adjusters on the resi’s. The true dual rate spring in the rear is key, they’re not cheap though…
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I think if you’re modding like this you should definitely avoid the collars- completely agree. The weight is a huge issue and there are a variety of others.I’m with you… The Fox’s rode great STOCK, as that’s what they are tuned for. However, once I added a winch bumper, rock sliders, rear bumper/tire carrier, and skids my WT rode like an old Cadillac and sagged nearly 1”. It floated about in slow-mo and hit the bump stops on anything moderate. I could tell I was out of the sweet spot the Fox’s/springs were tuned for. It was only going to get worse with perch collars.
Maybe I’m more in-tune with my butt-o-meter too
Otherwise, you might be able to experiment per your setup and fit new HD springs from Eibach or Dobinsons, several have, and get it where you like it. I didn’t want to experiment, removing the Fox’s multiple times and trial/error of trying different springs for my setup. I went with ADS coilovers and have been really happy with the functionality and ride. I can adjust them without removing, just have to remove a wheel and droop the suspension to relieve pressure, then adjust with spanner. Ride is better than the Fox’s were when It was stock, was too soft in the rear and would squat on hard acceleration in Sport or with hardly any weight. With ADS I can adjust height for the perfect rake (or no rake) and weight, as well as tune the ride further with the adjusters on the resi’s. The true dual rate spring in the rear is key, they’re not cheap though…
Yea agreed on all points. In hindsight, if I had to do it again, I would've just went with a badlands and replaced the suspension. But given I have the fox setup, I'm having issues justifying replacing it. Feels like wasting money. So I'm hopeful someone will come up with a viable solution that's not going to preload the system and limit travel yet allow me to run 37's. I figured for sure some companies would've come up with good solutions by now.I’m with you… The Fox’s rode great STOCK, as that’s what they are tuned for. However, once I added a winch bumper, rock sliders, rear bumper/tire carrier, and skids my WT rode like an old Cadillac and sagged nearly 1”. It floated about in slow-mo and hit the bump stops on anything moderate. I could tell I was out of the sweet spot the Fox’s/springs were tuned for. It was only going to get worse with perch collars.
Maybe I’m more in-tune with my butt-o-meter too
Otherwise, you might be able to experiment per your setup and fit new HD springs from Eibach or Dobinsons, several have, and get it where you like it. I didn’t want to experiment, removing the Fox’s multiple times and trial/error of trying different springs for my setup. I went with ADS coilovers and have been really happy with the functionality and ride. I can adjust them without removing, just have to remove a wheel and droop the suspension to relieve pressure, then adjust with spanner. Ride is better than the Fox’s were when It was stock, was too soft in the rear and would squat on hard acceleration in Sport or with hardly any weight. With ADS I can adjust height for the perfect rake (or no rake) and weight, as well as tune the ride further with the adjusters on the resi’s. The true dual rate spring in the rear is key, they’re not cheap though…
I guess time will tell. I might eventually bite the bullet and do aftermarket coilovers, but gonna hold onto hope for a little longer
I considered that too, but for full clearance you'd need the broncbuster 3", and that just seems like a lot to me for a body lift
My research has me believing that JKS max tire and 1.5 body lift. (No additional weight from bumpers, carriers, winch etc.) will clear 37’s and still have full articulation of the suspension and steering. Is this wrong?
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