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Factory Sub Replacement - 2ohm or 4ohm?

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Purchasing a Kicker 6.75 subwoofer, but based on the factory wiring, which I intend to duplicated, not sure if I should be purchasing the DVC 2ohm or DVC 4ohm.

Unless I'm mistaken, the factory sub appears to be wired in parallel for 2ohm?
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Purchasing a Kicker 6.75 subwoofer, but based on the factory wiring, which I intend to duplicated, not sure if I should be purchasing the DVC 2ohm or DVC 4ohm.

Unless I'm mistaken, the factory sub appears to be wired in parallel for 2ohm?
The DVC 4ohm wired positive to positive, negative to negative will give you a 2 ohm load to the amp
 
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The DVC 4ohm wired positive to positive, negative to negative will give you a 2 ohm load to the amp
Thanks!

Safe to assume that wiring PP / NN on a DVC 2ohm would result in a 1ohm load to the amp? I ask because there are people out there purchasing the DVC 2ohm sub, and correct me if I'm wrong, but those can only be wired for 1ohm or 4ohm load to the amp.
 

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Thanks!

Safe to assume that wiring PP / NN on a DVC 2ohm would result in a 1ohm load to the amp? I ask because there are people out there purchasing the DVC 2ohm sub, and correct me if I'm wrong, but those can only be wired for 1ohm or 4ohm load to the amp.
correct
 

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Purchasing a Kicker 6.75 subwoofer, but based on the factory wiring, which I intend to duplicated, not sure if I should be purchasing the DVC 2ohm or DVC 4ohm.

Unless I'm mistaken, the factory sub appears to be wired in parallel for 2ohm?
Can we get a few more details? What sub? How's it sound? A picture of the wiring when you're done? Highly interested since the stock sub suuuucks.
 

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Unless I'm mistaken, the factory sub appears to be wired in parallel for 2ohm?
I’m not convinced this is the case. If someone has taken the amp apart to verify then ok, I just haven’t done that or seen it done.

The factory amp has 2 outputs, and each coil on the sub is wired to its own output.

The factory sub is 2 ohms dual coil, and it’s a 110W unit.

But there is nothing indicating how the amp handles those two outputs internally that is obvious. It would be unusual for an amp to drive a 1 ohm load - most I am familiar with are set up assuming 2-8ohms. Doesn’t mean it’s impossible, just would be unusual.

I think it’s more likely they are either kept separate and driven like a 2-channel or internally wired in series. But that’s just a hunch.

Anyway — if you are replacing the OEM amp, then look at what input ohms your replacement is made for. Many aftermarket amps are flexible with input impedance and either the 2 or 4 ohm versions will work. If you are using the factory amp, stick with 2 ohms and wire the coils individually like the factory speaker does.
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