Rear shock skids... which ones?

[GroovyGeek]

I have these, no complaints. I like the extra LCA coverage.

These have all the downsides of having to mess with the strut bolt and it's insane torque spec without any of the upsides. They are also thinner metal. I had purchased them but will return.

W

ASFIR are less expensive and easy to install. That's what I have, although I'd rather have NVM.

ASFIR are the most expensive of the bunch $300+ and are fugly red. I have ordered their tranny and control arm skids but will not touch anything in clown colors.

At this time I am tendibg towards the JKS - some protection both in the forward and reverse direction. 3/16 metal. Or the NVM which are self install (I don't have breaker bars, heavy duty impact or torque wrenches).

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[Tricky Mike]

These have all the downsides of having to mess with the strut bolt and it's insane torque spec without any of the upsides. They are also thinner metal. I had purchased them but will return.

They are still thick enough, I have yet to dent one. I didn't use a torque wrench, german tight is just fine here.

 

[Cygnusx1]

Bought them more than a year ago, didn't remember them being that expensive. Another reason to go NVM.

 

[sportcoupe]

The lower shock mount

Highly unlikely.

Lower shock mount is only 240 ft-lb

 

[the poacher]

NVM makes awesome stuff. Try these: https://nextventuremotorsports.com/...co-u725-2021/products/bronco-rear-shock-skids

That is a hefty price attached to them, wow...

 

[GroovyGeek]

Highly unlikely.

Lower shock mount is only 240 ft-lb

Most places say 350, some say 240
https://www.levelupsuspension.com/pages/2021-ford-bronco-torque-specs

 

[StuB]

Hi,
I went with the Lobo Off Road rear shock skids for the 2023 WT Hoss/Fox suspension.
Admittedly, my wrench skills are not great, and I did struggle a bit with some of the bolts, but Lobo seemed to be the simplest option. I've also installed the Ford OEM skids, a RCI differential skid, and a LOD cross member skid. I'm not a rock crawler, the purpose was to protect the expensive bits from myself. Good luck!

 

[GroovyGeek]

Hi,
I went with the Lobo Off Road rear shock skids for the 2023 WT Hoss/Fox suspension.
Admittedly, my wrench skills are not great, and I did struggle a bit with some of the bolts, but Lobo seemed to be the simplest option. I've also installed the Ford OEM skids, a RCI differential skid, and a LOD cross member skid. I'm not a rock crawler, the purpose was to protect the expensive bits from myself. Good luck!

I think that the simplest options to install are Barnes, Valkyrie, ASFIR, TrueNorth and NVM since they do not involve touching the lower strut bolt. The next simplest ones are DV8 and JCR that require loosening but not removing the strut bolt. That is not much of a benefit relative to full removal of the bolt.

Everything else (JKS, Wild Horses, RCI, Skyjacker, BroncoBuster, Fitz, MetalCloak) uses the strut bolt and is probably the most robust. However by the time you factor in charges for labor those become quite spendy. Currently vacillating between NVM and Barnes. NVM has a 15% sale till tonight but they feel like such a dramatic overkill for my needs and shopping is $30. Barnes is not nearly as robust but actually seems to have the lowest loss of clearance of the bunch since the shock can protrude a bit in the cutout. Likely no more than 1/4 inch savings though so not much of a benefit.

 

[VoltageDrop]

Most places say 350, some say 240
https://www.levelupsuspension.com/pages/2021-ford-bronco-torque-specs

FWIW, the 22 Bronco service manual says:

NOTE: Do not fully tighten the shock absorber mounting bolts. Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the suspension loaded or with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, otherwise incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur.

All vehicles 3. NOTE: Make sure a new nut and bolt is installed. Install the new rear shock absorber and shock absorber lower bolt and nut. Torque: 350 lb. ft (475 Nm)

I would address the trailing arm mounts at the frame before worrying about the shock armor, especially if you have the non-reinforced ones from the factory like my base. Those things take a beating on rock shelves. I have the JCR skids that look beefy and smooth the transition but I haven't gotten around to installing them yet.

 

[GroovyGeek]

FWIW, the 22 Bronco service manual says:

NOTE: Do not fully tighten the shock absorber mounting bolts. Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the suspension loaded or with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, otherwise incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur.

All vehicles 3. NOTE: Make sure a new nut and bolt is installed. Install the new rear shock absorber and shock absorber lower bolt and nut. Torque: 350 lb. ft (475 Nm)

The JCR install video highlighted the same thing - the strut lower bolt should be torqued only with the full weight of the vehicle resting on it. Yet I see all these shock skid install videos where the retorque is done with wheels up in the air.

Unfortunately I have the Black Diamond with the (mildly) reinforced forward rear CAs. I think that the only option for putting skids on them is Foutz, but man are those pricey. Will take care the the tranny, cross members, and shocks for now.

 

[sportcoupe]

Most places say 350, some say 240
https://www.levelupsuspension.com/pages/2021-ford-bronco-torque-specs

FWIW, the 22 Bronco service manual says:

NOTE: Do not fully tighten the shock absorber mounting bolts. Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the suspension loaded or with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires, otherwise incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur.

All vehicles 3. NOTE: Make sure a new nut and bolt is installed. Install the new rear shock absorber and shock absorber lower bolt and nut. Torque: 350 lb. ft (475 Nm)

I would address the trailing arm mounts at the frame before worrying about the shock armor, especially if you have the non-reinforced ones from the factory like my base. Those things take a beating on rock shelves. I have the JCR skids that look beefy and smooth the transition but I haven't gotten around to installing them yet.

Groovy,
I eat my words. Looks like that bolt is a torque to yield bolt at 350 ft-lb. It's also throwaway, no reusing it after the stretch per Ford.

The 240 ft-lb spec is probably the unofficial "reuse" torque of that bolt.

 

[RP80]

I used the Foutz and they are amazing. I like how the bash plate extends past the side plates thus covering/protecting the weld connection. Mounting directly to the lower shock mount feels like the most robust design, albeit a challenge with the 350 ft-lb torque spec. I'd say a 30-minute install.

 

[chtucker]

I had zero problems getting the shock bolts out with my Milwaukee 2620 impact. The biggest challenge I see with getting them back in torqued is enough clearance to get leverage when the vehicle is on the ground. I was fortunate that I have DIY garage where you can rent garage space in 1 hour increments. They have both 2 post and four post lifts. The four post made it easy...

 

[GroovyGeek]

I used the Foutz and they are amazing. I like how the bash plate extends past the side plates thus covering/protecting the weld connection. Mounting directly to the lower shock mount feels like the most robust design, albeit a challenge with the 350 ft-lb torque spec. I'd say a 30-minute install.

These images explain one mystery for me. Some of the shock skid install videos say to add washers on the inside of the skid to enable proper torque against a flat surface, others don't. The images above show that the Foutz ones clearly have the washers built in, which makes them easier to install. The MetalCloak and BroncBuster ones do not, and the install videos I have seen make no mention of spacer washers. The JKS and JCR install videos call out the need to add spacer washers.

 

[Fishwrinkle]

jks supplies the inner and outer washers

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