Air compressors/Mounting Advice/recommendations

[BostonSasquatch]

This is actually how I first saw this compressor. Was hoping for more posts and videos of setup and wiring because their written instructions are pretty basic and definitely don’t discuss Bronco specific info.

I got mine last year nicely discounted on their Black Friday sale, and had it installed early this year by a Ford (dealer) tech on his own time. The Thor system is fast: I air up from 10->40 psi in under 4 minutes. I used to stand by the rear gate and watch my pressure on the manifold. Now I sit in the driver's seat, monitor the psi on the dash, and control it with my remote switch.
Their customer support is superb. I had a defective manifold, which they replaced pronto. Then they sent me an upgrade on the chucks. I don't know of any other permanent mount for the NAPA-based 2-cylinder 300 lpm compressor. And they now have a mount (a molle cage, called "the Refuge") for 2 door Broncos, too. It sits over the right rear wheel well.
One last thing: most NAPA 300 lpm compressors warn you against airing up single tires in general, and regular passenger tires in particular, because of excessive back-pressure. I'm not sure of how they rewired it, but the Thors people claim you can air single tires without risk, and provide a single-tire hose (with gauge) in their hose kit.
You can get the complete Thor setup for the price of the ARB compressor alone. If you go with Thors, call the owner Eric (Colorado) and tell them you were referred by "the Boston ex-cop" and maybe he'll give you a price break. I have no financial interest or participation in this.

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[WILDcardOD]

The Mishimoto CAI will not fit with the KR offroad underhood mount. It will work with the Roush CAI, but that is because it still uses the stock airbox.

I know this because I just replaced my Roush CAI with the Mishimoto CAI (along with their charge pipes and a whipple intercooler) and my underhood KR offroad twin ARB compressor mount would not work. The install video from Panda Motorworks shows the fitment issues at minute 3:15:



I relocated the compressor to a molle panel in my cargo area.

With that said, the KR offroad mount was great. Easy to install and looked great.

I think you helped me in another thread, but thank you again!

 

[WILDcardOD]

I got mine last year nicely discounted on their Black Friday sale, and had it installed early this year by a Ford (dealer) tech on his own time. The Thor system is fast: I air up from 10->40 psi in under 4 minutes. I used to stand by the rear gate and watch my pressure on the manifold. Now I sit in the driver's seat, monitor the psi on the dash, and control it with my remote switch.
Their customer support is superb. I had a defective manifold, which they replaced pronto. Then they sent me an upgrade on the chucks. I don't know of any other permanent mount for the NAPA-based 2-cylinder 300 lpm compressor. And they now have a mount (a molle cage, called "the Refuge") for 2 door Broncos, too. It sits over the right rear wheel well.
One last thing: most NAPA 300 lpm compressors warn you against airing up single tires in general, and regular passenger tires in particular, because of excessive back-pressure. I'm not sure of how they rewired it, but the Thors people claim you can air single tires without risk, and provide a single-tire hose (with gauge) in their hose kit.
You can get the complete Thor setup for the price of the ARB compressor alone. If you go with Thors, call the owner Eric (Colorado) and tell them you were referred by "the Boston ex-cop" and maybe he'll give you a price break. I have no financial interest or participation in this.

I actually went ahead an ordered the thor system. I chatted with someone first and they pretty much told me unless I was military or first responder there was no discount. Which was fine since it’s already cheaper than the competition. I was gonna wait till Black Friday but I want to be up in the dunes long before then.

 

[BostonSasquatch]

I actually went ahead an ordered the thor system. I chatted with someone first and they pretty much told me unless I was military or first responder there was no discount. Which was fine since it’s already cheaper than the competition. I was gonna wait till Black Friday but I want to be up in the dunes long before then.

You won't be disappointed. As I said, their price for the full package is less than the ARB two-cylinder compressor alone.
On the install: the cage ("Refuge") will utilize the bolts which secure the rear-most ("cabinet") roof section. Since those bolts also secure my TrailRax PakRax (Side) gear mounts, I am resigned to not removing that roof section, ever. But the cage also provides a handy molle surface for other stuff.
The kit comes with all the 50amp wire you'll need. My guy ran it from the battery to the rear of the engine compartment, across the firewall, then dropped it to the right undercarriage and back. Very straightforward.
Consider adding an on/off remote, easy to add and provides a big convenience. The hose bag squeezes in very nicely between the rollbar strut and the rear window. Keep gloves in it. This gets hot, especially if you air up a 2nd truck.
Do a few dry-runs in the driveway to make sure there aren't any glitches in the field. As I mentioned, I had a defective manifold, which they replaced promptly, and wouldn't have wanted to work around that on a trailhead.

 

[WILDcardOD]

You won't be disappointed. As I said, their price for the full package is less than the ARB two-cylinder compressor alone.
On the install: the cage ("Refuge") will utilize the bolts which secure the rear-most ("cabinet") roof section. Since those bolts also secure my TrailRax PakRax (Side) gear mounts, I am resigned to not removing that roof section, ever. But the cage also provides a handy molle surface for other stuff.
The kit comes with all the 50amp wire you'll need. My guy ran it from the battery to the rear of the engine compartment, across the firewall, then dropped it to the right undercarriage and back. Very straightforward.
Consider adding an on/off remote, easy to add and provides a big convenience. The hose bag squeezes in very nicely between the rollbar strut and the rear window. Keep gloves in it. This gets hot, especially if you air up a 2nd truck.
Do a few dry-runs in the driveway to make sure there aren't any glitches in the field. As I mentioned, I had a defective manifold, which they replaced promptly, and wouldn't have wanted to work around that on a trailhead.

Thank you, and you’re talking wireless remote as opposed to using the on unit switch? I plan on utilizing their wiring quick disconnect and removing the unit when I’m not doing any dune stuff and have the top off anyway. But will just leave it in there in the winter with the hardtop.

 

[BostonSasquatch]

Thank you, and you’re talking wireless remote as opposed to using the on unit switch? I plan on utilizing their wiring quick disconnect and removing the unit when I’m not doing any dune stuff and have the top off anyway. But will just leave it in there in the winter with the hardtop.

Did your purchase include the mounting system, "the Refuge" cage? And are you going to use that? I tried installing it but not bolting the compressor into it, and it rattled around a lot--very annoying, and probably not good for the compressor. So I got my guy (a Ford dealer tech on his own time) to rework it: you remove the bottom plate of the compressor, then screw bolts through the Refuge bottom into the compressor bottom, and it's all tight, all provided in the package. Then the on/off remote is feasible. But you lose portability.
If you want to keep it portable, use the carry bag (or buy a suitable case) and go with the battery clamps. For the permanent install, you'll cut off the battery clamps to connect the power cable and ground.
Nothing about it is rocket science, but I don't do electrical, so I hired a guy who does.
"Keep it simple," you know!

 

[WILDcardOD]

Did your purchase include the mounting system, "the Refuge" cage? And are you going to use that? I tried installing it but not bolting the compressor into it, and it rattled around a lot--very annoying, and probably not good for the compressor. So I got my guy (a Ford dealer tech on his own time) to rework it: you remove the bottom plate of the compressor, then screw bolts through the Refuge bottom into the compressor bottom, and it's all tight, all provided in the package. Then the on/off remote is feasible. But you lose portability.
If you want to keep it portable, use the carry bag (or buy a suitable case) and go with the battery clamps. For the permanent install, you'll cut off the battery clamps to connect the power cable and ground.
Nothing about it is rocket science, but I don't do electrical, so I hired a guy who does.
"Keep it simple," you know!

yeah I bought the whole package and planned on mounting it with the cage, and after talking to a rep and someone else I was under the impression I would be able to still remove the cage and compressor and shelve it but maybe I misunderstood or they misunderstood me but I guess I’ll find out when it gets here

 

[BostonSasquatch]

yeah I bought the whole package and planned on mounting it with the cage, and after talking to a rep and someone else I was under the impression I would be able to still remove the cage and compressor and shelve it but maybe I misunderstood or they misunderstood me but I guess I’ll find out when it gets here

Okay, I think I understand what you want: to 1) use it with (long-term, dune-driving season) the cage, and without (non-dune-driving season). You also want to take your MIC off entirely for dune driving--with the Thor compressor in the cage? Here are my thoughts, starting with equipment.

1) You'll want easy-on/off hardtop install bolts--see RockWorkx, $89. You can hand-tighten these without needing the Torx in your glove box. It's important that you never over-tork these bolts. Remember that. They break. You'll need two identical electrical quick connects: 1 for the hardwire, and 1 for your battery clamp cable. You'll remove the compressor's bottom plate when you mount it in the cage, but save it for later use. Just dropping it into the cage without bolting doesn't work--it bounces and rattles a lot -- even when strapped in tight.

2) Run your 200amp hardwire (provided) from your battery or fuse box to the rear and bring up at the right-rear wheel well (see post above). Leave two extra feet (maybe less) at the end. Attach the female quick connect here. Make sure you keep your polarity straight!

3) Cut off the battery clamp cable about six inches from the compressor, save for future use. Attach the male quick connect here. (Check your polarity!)

4) The tricky part--if I understand you right. Remove the Torx bolts from MIC rear-most hardtop. Hitting the dunes? Remove the entire hardtop, then. Use the RockWorkx bolts to bolt down the Refuge cage, with or without the hardtop. Take off the compressor's bottom plate and bolt the compressor through the bottom of the cage, and the long bolt into the right-rear rollover strut (important to stabilize). Consider adding lock washers. Plug the compressor into the hardwire you installed. You should be good to go now.

4A) You'll do this whenever you want to take the top off and use the cage install. A bit of work, but heck, this is a hobby, right? The provided cover probably won't fit when the compressor is installed in the cage. Maybe the carry bag, upside down, or something of your own invention. Protect it from all that sand. I keep my rear MIC section on permanently (it has a full-length Trailrax, too).

4B) Remember not to overtork, over-use, or abuse those RockWorkx bolts.

5) For those times you don't want to bother with the install: Attach the other quickconnect to the battery clamp cable and bring with you. You can just throw the compressor (with the bottom plate back on) into the back, and plug it into either the permanent hardwire, or lift the hood and connect to the battery. Handy if you're going to airup a buddy. Again--make sure you keep your polarity straight.

Thoughts on usage: when you have the hardtop on, the hose bag fits nicely wedged between the rollover strut and the window. I keep all my pneumatic stuff there, in a Ziplock: spare valves and caps, tire-plug kit, manual air gauge, adapters for air mattresses, gloves, etc. Reaching the on-off switch through the molle cage is a little awkward; my remote really simplifies that. Remember to keep your engine on when using the compressor, it's a heavy draw. Once you've aired down and up a few times, you'll be on the trail or pavement in no time at all.

If you're close to dunes--I envy you! I spent $150 for my Cape Cod Seashore year permit, and right now it's closed to vehicles because of nesting birds. But on a raw day in April, nobody around, I did some Baja type runs, 55+ mph, that was fun! I'm organizing a group meet in September when the hatchlings have gone.

Hope this helps!

 

[WILDcardOD]

Okay, I think I understand what you want: to 1) use it with (long-term, dune-driving season) the cage, and without (non-dune-driving season). You also want to take your MIC off entirely for dune driving--with the Thor compressor in the cage? Here are my thoughts, starting with equipment.

1) You'll want easy-on/off hardtop install bolts--see RockWorkx, $89. You can hand-tighten these without needing the Torx in your glove box. It's important that you never over-tork these bolts. Remember that. They break. You'll need two electrical quick connects: 1 for the hardwire, and 1 for your battery clamp cable. You'll remove the compressor's bottom plate when you mount it in the cage, but save it for later use. Just dropping it in without bolting doesn't work--it bounces and rattles a lot -- even when strapped in tight.

2) Run your 200amp hardwire (provided) from your battery or fuse box to the rear wheel well (see post above). Leave two extra feet (maybe less) at the end. Attach the female quick connect here. Make sure you keep your polarity straight!

3) Cut off the battery clamp cable about six inches from the compressor, save for future use. Attach the male quick connect here. (Check your polarity!)

4) The tricky part--if I understand you right. Remove the Torx bolts from MIC rear-most hardtop. Hitting the dunes? Remove the entire hardtop, then. Use the RockWorkx bolts to bolt down the Refuge cage, with or without the hardtop. Take off the compressor's bottom plate and bolt the compressor through the bottom of the cage, and the long bolt into the right-rear rollover strut (important to stabilize). Consider adding lock washers. Plug the compressor into the hardwire you installed. You should be good to go now.

4A) You'll do this whenever you want to take the top off and use the cage install. A bit of work, but heck, this is a hobby, right? The provided cover probably won't fit when the compressor is installed in the cage. Maybe the carry bag, upside down, or something of your own invention. Protect it from all that sand.

4B) Remember not to overtork, over-use, or abuse those RockWorkx bolts.

5) For those times you don't want to bother with the install: Attach the other quickconnect to the battery clamp cable and bring with you. You can just throw the compressor (with the bottom plate back on) into the back, and plug it into either the permanent hardwire, or lift the hood and connect to the battery. Handy if you're going to airup a buddy. Again--make sure you keep your polarity straight.

Thoughts on usage: when you have the hardtop on, the hose bag fits nicely wedged between the rollover strut and the window. I keep all my pneumatic stuff there, in a Ziplock: spare valves and caps, manual air gauge, adapters for air mattresses, gloves, etc. Reaching the on-off switch through the molle cage is a little awkward; my remote really simplifies that. Remember to keep your engine on when using the compressor, it's a heavy draw. Once you've aired down and up a few times, you'll be on the trail or pavement in no time at all.

If you're close to dunes--I envy you! I spent $150 for my Cape Cod Seashore year permit, and right now it's closed to vehicles because of nesting birds. But on a raw day in April, nobody around, I did some Baja type runs, 55+ mph, that was fun! I'm organizing a group meet in September when the hatchlings have gone.

Hope this helps!

Thank you, I’ll be bookmarking this for when it arrives and I already have the Rockworkx screws, I had some thoughts as well prior to this haha.

 

[BostonSasquatch]

Thank you, I’ll be bookmarking this for when it arrives and I already have the Rockworkx screws, I had some thoughts as well prior to this haha.

Hope I'm helpful, and very glad if I am. Their instructions have very little in the way of diagrams or images. Since I don't know wiring, I felt it safest to hire a tech. Running the hardwire and ziptying it down was the most time-consuming part of the job. My guy did everything in about an hour and a half, maybe less. One thing I forgot: a little WD-40 on the valve chuck slide mechanism helps, especially since you'll be in a sandy environment.
ThorsLightning has been superb with customer support.

 

[WILDcardOD]

Hope I'm helpful, and very glad if I am. Their instructions have very little in the way of diagrams or images. Since I don't know wiring, I felt it safest to hire a tech. Running the hardwire and ziptying it down was the most time-consuming part of the job. My guy did everything in about an hour and a half, maybe less. One thing I forgot: a little WD-40 on the valve chuck slide mechanism helps, especially since you'll be in a sandy environment.
ThorsLightning has been superb with customer support.

I noticed that when I looked into the directions. Thankfully by brother is a mechanic and my dad does all sorts of wiring so with this and there knowledge I feel like it will all work out.

 

[BostonSasquatch]

I noticed that when I looked into the directions. Thankfully by brother is a mechanic and my dad does all sorts of wiring so with this and there knowledge I feel like it will all work out.

30 minutes to install, factor in 45 minutes arguing and debating, 30 minutes for beer, done!
You're fortunate to have that knowledgeable help. My guy did all sorts of little things to keep the job professional and neat, like clipping excess plastic off zip ties, protecting electrical connections with shrink wrap, soldering where crimping might have been sufficient, etc. Very happy with the product and my install.

 

[IwannaGOfast]

Just noticed today that Barnes 4wd has an engine mount at a very fair price.

https://barnes4wd.com/products/2021-present-for-bronco-arb-dual-compressor-mounting-bracket-kit

 

[WILDcardOD]

Did your purchase include the mounting system, "the Refuge" cage? And are you going to use that? I tried installing it but not bolting the compressor into it, and it rattled around a lot--very annoying, and probably not good for the compressor. So I got my guy (a Ford dealer tech on his own time) to rework it: you remove the bottom plate of the compressor, then screw bolts through the Refuge bottom into the compressor bottom, and it's all tight, all provided in the package. Then the on/off remote is feasible. But you lose portability.
If you want to keep it portable, use the carry bag (or buy a suitable case) and go with the battery clamps. For the permanent install, you'll cut off the battery clamps to connect the power cable and ground.
Nothing about it is rocket science, but I don't do electrical, so I hired a guy who does.
"Keep it simple," you know!

Do we know how he got it back up from underneath the vehicle?

 

[BostonSasquatch]

Do we know how he got it back up from underneath the vehicle?

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you--real life's been intruding big-time.

Can't help you much, I'm afraid. The power cable entered the cargo compartment through that rear grommet (mentioned above), just behind the B-pillar, close to the threshold, and disappeared under the flooring. It next showed up at (through) the removable (accessible) panel on the top of the interior housing of the wheel well, where he fed it to my on/off (remote) switch, and the compressor itself.

I do remember he pulled off interior panel(s?) at the forward side of the wheel well housing, so I conclude: from the grommet, underneath the flooring (not the mud mat!) of the rear seat, to the wheel well, under the wheel well's interior housing (but above the wheel well itself, natch) to the top of the the wheel well housing. I imagine this has to be done before the molle "Refuge" cage is attached to the (rear) hardtop bolts.

Email the ThorsLightning guys. They're very accessible. Hope that helps.

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