Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[ILoveToDrive]

Memphis vs otherwise? @SlvrSurfRidr suggestion and research/reviews. I always prefer nerdy hi-fi music components. I was also drawn to the fact that I was trying to get full range and enough low end w/o a sub. I’m pretty happy with my setup for $1200.

My key takeaway is you are talking about optimizing a “non-sub” soundstage. The sub element introduces disruption

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[Matt J.]

I haven't read all 80 pages of this thread, so apologies if this was already answered.

I'm looking at either Kit 11-2 or Kit 14 which both have the 17ft high level extension. Question for the peanut gallery, what is the source of the signal for the 17ft extension? The picture shows 4 wires which I assume are two channels only, but it doesn't say if it's the dumbed-down signal from the factory head unit or if it's the cleaned-up signal from the Kicker Key amp.

If it's the dumbed-down signal, then it seems like I have to get a DSP like the LC2i (kit 14) to clean up the signal before feeding it into the subwoofer amp, right?

Comments appreciated!

 

[gaaangs]

I'm not looking for big bass. I've got the sub giving me good low end. Where I'm suffering is the "muddiness" of the higher frequency of the bass range..even going into the midrange. I'm thinking that a higher quality kick panel speaker will provide more clarity. I'm assuming that will be the case when I take the pods up to 6" as well...even though I've got 4" kickers in the pods now. There's just not enough range coming out of the pods...even being driven by the Key amp.
I'm also thinking another limitation is the way the dash and kick panel speakers are wired. It's not a component setup, so the front feels a little "schizophrenic". Not sure how to get the best quality sound of the front given that setup.

727-01-01 382B 16F1 009A Front - Sp-Tw/Sp-Tw (600Hz bass blocker in dash 4")
Back - Tw / Tw-Sub Sub - Kicker 6.75/Fusion amp

727-01-02 0900 000D 0047

I don't think the pod speakers are on the key amp. Just the front four. I could be wrong, though.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

I don't think the pod speakers are on the key amp. Just the front four. I could be wrong, though.

@RagnarKon I'm pretty sure the harness that @plugnplaykits ships with the 11 kit hooks into the pods and the fronts.

 

[RagnarKon]

I don't think the pod speakers are on the key amp. Just the front four. I could be wrong, though.

@RagnarKon I'm pretty sure the harness that @plugnplaykits ships with the 11 kit hooks into the pods and the fronts.

@plugnplaykits has dozens of different packages, and I'll admit I haven't look into all of them. BUT the Kicker Key 200.4 kits he has drive all 6 speakers.

The kick panels and the dash speakers share a channel. So... for example... if you unplug the kick panel on the left side, it'll also disconnect left dash speaker.

 

[gaaangs]

@plugnplaykits has dozens of different packages, and I'll admit I haven't look into all of them. BUT the Kicker Key 200.4 kits he has drive all 6 speakers.

The kick panels and the dash speakers share a channel. So... for example... if you unplug the kick panel on the left side, it'll also disconnect left dash speaker.

Ah, same channel. That's what I meant.

 

[longwoodknight]

So I got the JBl Sound Bar… Got new speakers to put in… was looking at the KICKER KEY… but I also wanted to add a Subwoofer to the system… can You help me understand?

did you just Kept the JBL SOUND BAR As is, and dropped in the Kicker Key 200.4? And it worked fine?
Obviously this was a year ago, but did you ever end up putting in the Sub? How do I do that? Assuming another amp specifically for the sub? How do they connect to eachother? Is it possible?
I’m sorry, I’ve been looking for months… but havnt found a new speakers +JBL Bar + Kicker Key + Subwoofer add yet that gave much.

honestly, anyone insight would be great!!

Yes I have the sound bar and a powered subwoofer. So key powers front components and sound bar, and sub is self powered. It was an option with the harness. Love the system still. It’s been some time and it’s still fantastic

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Ah, same channel. That's what I meant.

You know immediately that the 200.4 amp goes to the rear pods the secong you adjust the right side gain. Rears light up.

 

[Aztec1382]

Check out the plug n play musway kit
More adjustability for the front and rear channels.

just swapped out my kicker key 200.4
Sounds great now

 

[Glennbob2.7]

Yes I have the sound bar and a powered subwoofer. So key powers front components and sound bar, and sub is self powered. It was an option with the harness. Love the system still. It’s been some time and it’s still fantastic

I’m thinking about getting the kit 12 to then add the swing gate sub from stinger… think it needs an amp. So I’m gonna get the one with the sub hookup

 

[Kevog]

Wow! Thanks so much to all the folks who've taken the time to post some truly helpful advice! So, after reading ALL 80 pages of this thread - I'm in! My amp kit arrived today and I'm super excited to install it this evening! I've already added an amped sub (Kicker 44CWCS84) to my sub delete...carcass thing. I added Focal ACX100's in dash, Infinity Ref 6532's in rear Mabett pods, and Hertz C165's in the kick panels. I also added a good bit of sound deadening throughout using a combo of foam products, cdl and mlv tiles. I'm really pleased with the results of all that - now if this Kicker amp comes through!?! Pix to follow...

 

[greatlakes]

Wow! Thanks so much to all the folks who've taken the time to post some truly helpful advice! So, after reading ALL 80 pages of this thread - I'm in! My amp kit arrived today and I'm super excited to install it this evening! I've already added an amped sub (Kicker 44CWCS84) to my sub delete...carcass thing. I added Focal ACX100's in dash, Infinity Ref 6532's in rear Mabett pods, and Hertz C165's in the kick panels. I also added a good bit of sound deadening throughout using a combo of foam products, cdl and mlv tiles. I'm really pleased with the results of all that - now if this Kicker amp comes through!?! Pix to follow...

Nice choices! I think you will be really happy when you get the amp in. If your using the Key amplifier, remember to disconnect your sub while you run the tuning sequence.

 

[Kevog]

Nice choices! I think you will be really happy when you get the amp in. If your using the Key amplifier, remember to disconnect your sub while you run the tuning sequence.

Yes! Thanks for reminding me to undo the sub. Install went well with just a few very minor issues. I really was surprised at how small and light that amp is! Took about 3 hours total that included some sound deadening on firewall and dash/glove box pieces. The harness seems to be really good quality too! Overall, I'm extremely pleased with how my system sounds now!

 

[RowsKing]

Has anyone tried this plug n play amp to replace the crappy B&O amp?

 

[Slim23]

I did not run new speaker wires to the dash (only down to the kick panel area). I had previously replaced both the dash and kick panel speakers using the metra harnesses. The metra harness for the kick panel speakers has "loop backs" for both the positive and negative input signal from the head unit. So the input signal comes in from the factory harness (pins 1 and 4, positive and negative respectively) into the metra harnes where it continues on the the kick panel speaker, but the loop sends the same signal from pins 1 and 4 back out to pins 2 and 3 into the factory harness which run up to the dash speaker.

So, what I did was cut that loop in the metra harnes, tap the incoming side of it (from pins 1 and 4) as the signal into the key, then run the output from the key into the other side of that loop which goes into pins 2 and 3 of the factory harness and out to the dash speaker. I then ran the other output from the key (for the kick panel) to the metra harnes and spliced into the lead from pins 1 and 4 that go into the kick panel speaker. So esentially the Metra harness is connected to the factory harness, but I cut all the wires coming out of it to use as my input into the key and receive the outputs from the key.

Doing it this way accomplished a few things:
1. No factory wires were cut/spliced/tapped or harmed in the making of enhanced audio
2. All wires to, and from, the key terminate at the same location (behind the kick panel trim)
3. No need to run new speaker wires up to the dash speakers
4. No need to remove the speakers I had already installed

Hopefully, I explained this well enough. It's hard to describe in words but if you look at the wiring diagram for the speakers and understand what the Metra harness for the kick panels looks like and what it does, it makes a lot more sense.

Thanks for the clear explanation. I'm trying to do the same thing -- find a way to bi-amp the Kicker 200.4 without cutting into the harnesses -- either Ford's or the PlugnPlay. But the Metra plug? I'd be happy to cut that up.

The part in your solution that I probably don't understand is: aren't you taking the output from Amp 1 and feeding the already amplified (and filtered) signal back into Amp2? The Metra plug that plugs in between the factory harness and the after-market speaker is on the other side of the Kicker 200.4 -- it's on the output side is it not? Aren't you taking the amplified signal that would normally feed both the dash and kick panel speakers and splitting the kick panel signal off and running it back into the Kicker 200.4 via Amp2 and then out to the kick panel speakers?

If I understand the Kicker manual correctly (and I probably don't) the Kicker 200.4 applies low and high pass filters when operated in bi-amp mode, Amp1 being filtered for tweeters and Amp2 being filtered for woofers. that would seem to be an issue if you're going to use the output of one amp for the input of the other amp, as well as lopsided gain issues. There's probably something I'm not understanding.

You guys who post here are doing a service to those of us who are not tech savvy. I've read all 81 pages of this thread, and it has been very useful. The Kicker amp and PlugNPlay harness was awesome, but I'm not satisfied with the sound. It was an improvement over stock, but the dash and kick panel are gonna have to be bi amped and the rear pods deleted. IMO.

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