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Second guessing my spacer lift and down travel

Snacktime

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I am starting to second guess my decision to stack a zone 1.4" spacer on top of my 5100 shocks(same length as SAS shocks). My carnage has been a stock steering rack and recently a passenger CV joint. My thinking is I am not exceeding usable travel or binding but operating to close to the edge of the design. My rack failure occured with one tire in a hole fully bottomed out. My CV failed again at max droop humping some steps at the offroad park. I am thinking that my combination is just pushing the parts a tad to far.

Steering has been beaten to death in other threads. Less angle, less stress, yada yada yada.

CV joint is my current concern since moving up to 37 tires. My concern is as the CV gets closer to max travel there is less engagement of contacts surfaces. See stolen picture below. I am thinking that reducing the angle (going to a smaller lift puck) will allow better CV engagement inside the CV.

I came to this conclusion starring at photos on here of failed CV axles. All of them have been inner joint failures, which is odd as the angles on outer are usually greater(same due to travel + steering angle). Summary is, I think I am to close to the edge of what the CV is capable of and reducing the CV strength at max droop(bad idea with 37s).

Ford Bronco Second guessing my spacer lift and down travel PM389_TrakMotive_Subaru-HD-Axle-Overview-Sheet-400x250
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BroncoAZ

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If you are otherwise satisfied with your setup you could try installing a set of limiting straps to avoid exceeding the limits of the CV’s.
 

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From what I read, when you use spacers instead of perch collars, it does shift your geometry lower by that same amount. So assuming Ford was pushing the edge, and you put in 1.4 in spacers, then you're now exceeding the edge by 1.4 in.

That's why everyone says you perch collars instead of spacers, because it gives you the lift, without extending the range.

In your case, did you do the Diff Drop? Seems like that would be the first thing if you are trying to straighten put your angles.
 

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I run spacers and 1.5"diff drop....highly recommend this for any lift above 1 inch.
 

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Snacktime

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I have thought about a diff drop a few times and then I think about that big chunk of M190 aluminum. Guess I might as well try lowering it since I have to cut my Metalcloak skids up anyways.

So I need to find a Metal place that has odds and ends pile. Need to make sure I have enough wire in the Mig to run up an electricity bill.
 

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I have thought about a diff drop a few times and then I think about that big chunk of M190 aluminum. Guess I might as well try lowering it since I have to cut my Metalcloak skids up anyways.

So I need to find a Metal place that has odds and ends pile. Need to make sure I have enough wire in the Mig to run up an electricity bill.
I didn't think about skid plate clearance. I'll have to look at mine and see how much of a gap I have with the JCRs.
 
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I didn't think about skid plate clearance. I'll have to look at mine and see how much of a gap I have with the JCRs.
I am pretty sure modification is required. I massaged my rear suspension a half inch lower yesterday and plan to dig into the front this next weekend.

I want to reduce my space from 1.4" to less and lower my 5100s from #4 perch to #3 perch. Depending how much diff drop I am able to do will factor into my spacer decision.

Currently shopping for a 1" think spacer but it's not like they sell them by size.
 

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I was hoping @Oscargrouch323 was going to come out with a diff drop. I haven't decided witch one yet or make my own.
 
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Rkgzx9leftcoast

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I know on mine, Stock Sasquatch Suspension, no lift or level kit, I have 37s on it and have tested it out off road with no issues. I even ran with the Sway manually disconnected when I went to trail hero last year. I have the BB bushing and JKS tie rod sleeves.

You probably know all this already....but.....From my understanding, and ive been around this stuff for a while. Perch collars dont change the total length of the strut, and that is what determines the travel. When the strut is out of stroke , that is all the A-arms, CV, Ect moves. A perch collar just moves the amount of stroke up, so you have less down travel.

A Spacer on top adds length to the strut/coil over, so it would add to the down travel and could cause binding.
 

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Rkgzx9leftcoast

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Ill add the old trick is to jack up front end, let suspension droop all the way with tire off and turn rotor/axle by hand or big bar. ( id disconect sway bar as well if you plan on doing that off road) If it is binding at bottom, that is the issue. Jack up axle until it turns free. This is how they measure for limit straps. They usually make the straps at least 3/4 in shorter because they stretch.
 

dgorsett

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I am pretty sure modification is required. I massaged my rear suspension a half inch lower yesterday and plan to dig into the front this next weekend.

I want to reduce my space from 1.4" to less and lower my 5100s from #4 perch to #3 perch. Depending how much diff drop I am able to do will factor into my spacer decision.

Currently shopping for a 1" think spacer but it's not like they sell them by size.
I have a Fabtech FTL5212 Kit which is listed at 1.5" front leveling and measures 7/8" thick. I think they're about $150. IDK if this is what you're looking for, but might work.

I went with the 5100's only and am looking to part with this kit. I could go $100, shipped if shipping isn't too bad.. DM me if interested.
Ford Bronco Second guessing my spacer lift and down travel thumbnail (1)
Ford Bronco Second guessing my spacer lift and down travel thumbnail (1)
 
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Snacktime

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I was hoping @Oscargrouch323 was going to come out with a diff drop. I haven't decided switch one yet or make my own.
I went and took a look at his thread yesterday, and it looks like a decent option. I also have been poking around on the Ranger forum and you need to lower all 3 mounts or the top bushing fails after a while. So he may need to do a few more steps to make a solid option.

I know on mine, Stock Sasquatch Suspension, no lift or level kit, I have 37s on it and have tested it out off road with no issues. I even ran with the Sway manually disconnected when I went to trail hero last year. I have the BB bushing and JKS tie rod sleeves.

You probably know all this already....but.....From my understanding, and ive been around this stuff for a while. Perch collars dont change the total length of the strut, and that is what determines the travel. When the strut is out of stroke , that is all the A-arms, CV, Ect moves. A perch collar just moves the amount of stroke up, so you have less down travel.

A Spacer on top adds length to the strut/coil over, so it would add to the down travel and could cause binding.
We know what binds but we are still working on all the little things. Every manufacture has had a different approach with various mixture of spacer, perch collar modifications and assembly lengths. I also have a combination that is similar to Icon, Zone and many other manufactures.

Just working through my parts failures and right now I am at the point that I might have to much droop for the current components. I also know that out of 50 broncos only a raptor and a Wildhorse ran the same obstacle as me.
 
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I have a Fabtech FTL5212 Kit which is listed at 1.5" front leveling and measures 7/8" thick. I think they're about $150. IDK if this is what you're looking for, but might work.

I went with the 5100's only and am looking to part with this kit. I could go $100, shipped if shipping isn't too bad.. DM me if interested.
thumbnail (1).jpg
I just ran outside and measure I need a less than 1" as that is the same size as what I have. They all are the same! Thank you for the offer.
 

Tricky Dick

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Currently shopping for a 1" think spacer but it's not like they sell them by size.
1/4-3/8" spacer on the hat and 1/4" at the LCA should get you real close.
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