Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[ILoveToDrive]

@67BroncoG1 I saw you referring to a illustration document in your video. Can you provide the link to that document? Thanks...
Also, I’ve seen people mention mounting the amp on the metal plate under the steering column. You think that might be easier?
And…what speakers are you now running? I’m running 4’ kickers dash and pods, and fusion amp with 6.75” sub. The sound is acceptable but inconsistent based on the of music, volume, etc. I’m thinking the key amp will take it to the next level…yes? I feel like I’m currently mac’ing out the stock acm.
Thoughts?

@RagnarKon @67BroncoG1 @plugnplaykits
Does this harness with the 11 kit pull power from the head unit or from the battery? I’ve been reading if the power is pulled from the head unit clipping can be an issue.

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[RagnarKon]

@RagnarKon @67BroncoG1 @plugnplaykits
Does this harness with the 11 kit pull power from the head unit or from the battery? I’ve been reading if the power is pulled from the head unit clipping can be an issue.

It taps into the same power line that feeds the factory head unit. Fuse 32 (20 Amp).

If you want a plug-and-play harness that pulls its power from the battery rather than the factory harness, I would recommend this kit from Hoel Wiring.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Plug n play makes an adapter to go direct to the battery for $30.

https://plugnplaykits.com/products/kicker-key-200-4-power-adapter-plug?variant=42221728989374

 

[ILoveToDrive]

It taps into the same power line that feeds the factory head unit. Fuse 32 (20 Amp).

If you want a plug-and-play harness that pulls its power from the battery rather than the factory harness, I would recommend this kit from Hoel Wiring.

Do you think it’s necessary? I’m trying to keep it as simple as possible. Plugnplay’s harness seems the simplest. I also planned on mounting to the plate under the steering column, but getting the connector to the amp felt to me like I could break shit in the process. It seemed challenging for you. Having done it, you feel it’s more straightforward than it appears?
You’re video of the install was somewhat intimidating, but I think the inclusion of the sub amp and associated stuff introduced some complications I wouldn’t need to deal with? You ripped out a lot of stuff.
Thanks for all your help Bryan. You’ve become an invaluable resource to the forum.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

@67BroncoG1 I saw you referring to a illustration document in your video. Can you provide the link to that document? Thanks...
Also, I’ve seen people mention mounting the amp on the metal plate under the steering column. You think that might be easier?
And…what speakers are you now running? I’m running 4’ kickers dash and pods, and fusion amp with 6.75” sub. The sound is acceptable but inconsistent based on the of music, volume, etc. I’m thinking the key amp will take it to the next level…yes? I feel like I’m currently max’ing out the stock acm.
Thoughts?

You stated that the install of the amp using the plugnplaykits harness was straightforward and took about 90 minutes. Ragnarkon’s video made it appear much more daunting. What were the most difficult aspects of the installation? I’m looking to mount the amp on the metal plate under the steering column. I’ve already got a Fusion amp/Kicker sub installed, and Kicker 4” speakers in dash and pods. Without the amp there’s clipping and distortion.
Your comments are really making me want to do this, but I’m nervous as hell about it.

 

[RagnarKon]

Do you think it’s necessary? I’m trying to keep it as simple as possible. Plugnplay’s harness seems the simplest. I also planned on mounting to the plate under the steering column, but getting the connector to the amp felt to me like I could break shit in the process. It seemed challenging for you. Having done it, you feel it’s more straightforward than it appears?
You’re video of the install was somewhat intimidating, but I think the inclusion of the sub amp and associated stuff introduced some complications I wouldn’t need to deal with? You ripped out a lot of stuff.
Thanks for all your help Bryan. You’ve become an invaluable resource to the forum.

Running separate power to the Kicker Key amplifier is definitely the safest option. Do I feel it is necessary to do that?? No, I don't.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Do you think it’s necessary? I’m trying to keep it as simple as possible. Plugnplay’s harness seems the simplest. I also planned on mounting to the plate under the steering column, but getting the connector to the amp felt to me like I could break shit in the process. It seemed challenging for you. Having done it, you feel it’s more straightforward than it appears?
You’re video of the install was somewhat intimidating, but I think the inclusion of the sub amp and associated stuff introduced some complications I wouldn’t need to deal with? You ripped out a lot of stuff.
Thanks for all your help Bryan. You’ve become an invaluable resource to the forum.

My current setup is just the Kicker Key 200.4 amp on stock speakers with the plugnplaykits kit 11. The amp works fine for my uses without direct wiring to the battery, I usually don’t turn it up past 15-16 or it’s too loud for me. Installation was easy enough, the most daunting part is removing the lower trim around the AC controller. The harness is a little bit of a tight fit under the AC controls. The only complication was where I initially placed the amp on the plate under the steering column, I ended up having to move it over a bit to have the amp wires clear the structure.

I am going to change the speakers to just front components soon, and biamp them using the amp’s internal crossover. My rear speakers will be removed and I’ll add the Kicker 500.1 amp and some sort of subwoofer (JL Audio Stealthbox or SRQ hidden box).

 

[BroncMe]

My current setup is just the Kicker Key 200.4 amp on stock speakers with the plugnplaykits kit 11. The amp works fine for my uses without direct wiring to the battery, I usually don’t turn it up past 15-16 or it’s too loud for me. Installation was easy enough, the most daunting part is removing the lower trim around the AC controller. The harness is a little bit of a tight fit under the AC controls. The only complication was where I initially placed the amp on the plate under the steering column, I ended up having to move it over a bit to have the amp wires clear the structure.

I am going to change the speakers to just front components soon, and biamp them using the amp’s internal crossover. My rear speakers will be removed and I’ll add the Kicker 500.1 amp and some sort of subwoofer (JL Audio Stealthbox or SRQ hidden box).

This was my setup based upon early feedback on this thread too (stock speakers, PnP kit 11, kicker nicely zip tied to the steering column). Went without a hitch, tight fit for sure, but just patient in working with it.

Doubt I'll ever update speakers or add a subwoofer, the 200.4 gives me a terrific volume and clarity boost and kind of suits my basequatch "less-is-more" mantra. Would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

[redone17]

Plug n play makes an adapter to go direct to the battery for $30.

https://plugnplaykits.com/products/kicker-key-200-4-power-adapter-plug?variant=42221728989374

Wow. Dang. That power adapter was $10 a few weeks ago…

 

[BroncoAZ]

Wow. Dang. That power adapter was $10 a few weeks ago…

They had two versions, one was just a plug and the other has the wire to the battery. The more expensive is the one I found first.

 

[redone17]

They had two versions, one was just a plug and the other has the wire to the battery. The more expensive is the one I found first.

The one you linked is the one I got for $10 back in February. I thought that was inexpensive.

 

[gaaangs]

Why would anyone wire it to the battery? I have it plug n played to the audio head unit and its loud as hell and sounds great. Wiring to the battery seems like a waste of time.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Why would anyone wire it to the battery? I have it plug n played to the audio head unit and its loud as hell and sounds great. Wiring to the battery seems like a waste of time.

@RagnarKon @JimV @plugnplaykits @Szarko @redone17 Just spoke with Joe at PlugNPlay. Yes, I pulled the trigger on the amp, harness and power wire. He STRONGLY advised wiring to the battery. He said it's no big deal. There's a pre-existing hole filled in by a grommet in the firewall easily accessed.

My question...what do I do with my Forscan settings with the 200.4 Key amp installed? I have the fusion amp/kicker sub installed already. I am running forscan at 727-01-01 382B 2AF1 00AE and
727-01-02 0900 000D 0047 on the 4" kickers in the dash and pods, with 600hz blockers on the dash speakers. Kick panels are stock for now. I read the juice wasn't really worth the squeeze in upgrading those.

When I run the 200.4 DSP calibration with the microphone, the sub needs to be shut down. I really don't want to rip out the back and physically disconnect it. Can I turn it off using Forscan?

Before I install the 200.4, should I take Forscan back to original build?

Once I calibrate using the DSP program, how do I turn the sub back on, without disrupting the settings I've done with the 200.4? How does Forscan interact or effect the 200.4 amp?

IMPORTANT!! PlugNPlaykits has inventory on the 200.4's (around 50 in stock). Apparently Kicker is having parts issues, and this amp will not be back in stock for a very long time. If you're thinking about going down this road, I suggest pulling the trigger sooner rather than later.

 

[gaaangs]

@RagnarKon @JimV @plugnplaykits @Szarko @redone17 Just spoke with Joe at PlugNPlay. Yes, I pulled the trigger on the amp, harness and power wire. He STRONGLY advised wiring to the battery. He said it's no big deal. There's a pre-existing hole filled in by a grommet in the firewall easily accessed.

My question...what do I do with my Forscan settings with the 200.4 Key amp installed? I have the fusion amp/kicker sub installed already. I am running forscan at 727-01-01 382B 2AF1 00AE and
727-01-02 0900 000D 0047 on the 4" kickers in the dash and pods, with 600hz blockers on the dash speakers. Kick panels are stock for now. I read the juice wasn't really worth the squeeze in upgrading those.

When I run the 200.4 DSP calibration with the microphone, the sub needs to be shut down. I really don't want to rip out the back and physically disconnect it. Can I turn it off using Forscan?

Before I install the 200.4, should I take Forscan back to original build?

Once I calibrate using the DSP program, how do I turn the sub back on, without disrupting the settings I've done with the 200.4? How does Forscan interact or effect the 200.4 amp?

IMPORTANT!! PlugNPlaykits has inventory on the 200.4's (around 50 in stock). Apparently Kicker is having parts issues, and this amp will not be back in stock for a very long time. If you're thinking about going down this road, I suggest pulling the trigger sooner rather than later.

What did he say was the actual benefit of wiring it to the battery? Maybe one of the other guys can answer, but I am not sure if I already have it installed without wiring it to the battery its worth the hassel of wiring it to the battery.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

What did he say was the actual benefit of wiring it to the battery? Maybe one of the other guys can answer, but I am not sure if I already have it installed without wiring it to the battery its worth the hassel of wiring it to the battery.

I was told the power coming out of the ACM will not be as stable and "fluctuation free" as power coming directly from the battery terminal. I'm not an installer nor electrically fluent, so I am now officially out of my paygrade, so ChatGPT says...

Drawing power directly from the battery is better than using the ACM (Accessory Control Module) in a car when installing a stereo amplifier for several reasons:

1. Power output: The ACM is designed to provide power to the car's factory-installed audio system, which typically has low power requirements. In contrast, a high-end stereo amplifier requires a significant amount of power to operate effectively. The battery can provide the necessary power output for the amplifier, while the ACM may not be able to handle the increased demand for power.
2. Noise interference: The ACM is susceptible to electrical interference from other systems in the car, such as the engine or other electronic devices. This interference can cause noise or distortion in the audio signal, which can degrade the sound quality. On the other hand, drawing power directly from the battery can help to minimize noise interference, resulting in better audio quality.
3. Voltage stability: The voltage output of the ACM can fluctuate depending on the car's electrical load, which can affect the performance of the amplifier. In contrast, the battery provides a stable voltage output, which is essential for the amplifier to operate at its optimum level.
4. Safety: Drawing power directly from the battery with an appropriate fuse and wiring reduces the risk of fire hazards that can be caused by overloading the ACM or wiring that can overheat or catch fire.

Overall, drawing power directly from the battery is the preferred method when installing a stereo amplifier in a car, as it provides a reliable and stable power source that can help to ensure optimal performance and audio quality.

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