How does that work?The way Ford works is even though both sets of front speakers are wired together it’s still at a 4 ohm load not 2 ohm
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How does that work?The way Ford works is even though both sets of front speakers are wired together it’s still at a 4 ohm load not 2 ohm
Nice. What's under your seat? I have a Kicker HS10 sitting here ready to go, looks like I need seat lifters to fit it...I don't want to put it in the back (ATX weather has been too good, I forsee leaving the top off as much as possible), and real stealth options are few/far between.I doubt the front speakers are wired in parallel. Otherwise, a whole bunch of us would be having these issues. Is it all the speakers that are having problems? Also, 150hz bass blockers are way too low a value for those little dash speakers. Remember that they don't actually block bass at 150 hz and below. It's simply a capacitor that starts to filter low frequencies at around 150hz. Plus the slope isn't very steep (if you have the Crutchfield ones like I do, it's 8db/octave which means that bass is rolled off extremely gradual). I tried 300s and 600s and settled on 600s all the way around for the front/rear dashes. I put 150s on my door speakers and also set the high-pass crossover on the Kicker amp to 60hz. I rarely turn mine over 14-15 (gains at zero on amp, and it's EXTREMELY loud), but there's virtually no distortion. I currently have an underseat sub that handles the low end, and in the future I'm planning to add the JL stealthbox. Hope that helps!
Nice. What's under your seat? I have a Kicker HS10 sitting here ready to go, looks like I need seat lifters to fit it...I don't want to put it in the back (ATX weather has been too good, I forsee leaving the top off as much as possible), and real stealth options are few/far between.
It's been good enough for me...looks like a couple days of rain coming up but then all good! I just hope JL audio solution is better than what they've done for the wranglers... If it isn't, I'm torn between mounting a box to the tailgate or building a downfiring/ storage compartment for the rear floor. All likely mount the HS10 in the meantime.Oh wow - yeah, it's a tight fit under the seat. I have the Kenwood KSC-SW11. Fit great, but they had to collapse the 'vent' under the seat to make it work. It sounds pretty good; gave me a little oomph but nothing serious. I am waiting patiently for the stealthbox - already have the amp ready to go.
I've heard great things about the HS10 - with you 100% on it being in the trunk. I need all the capacity I can get back there for road trips and such. Gonna be PERFECT weather coming up for top off around town - can't wait.
Nice. What's under your seat? I have a Kicker HS10 sitting here ready to go, looks like I need seat lifters to fit it...I don't want to put it in the back (ATX weather has been too good, I forsee leaving the top off as much as possible), and real stealth options are few/far between.
Nice. I just went back and found the crutch field review on the HS10...guy raised both seats by 3/4", kicker under each, 2x JL 6w3v3 in the doors and $200JL 4" in the dash. Awesome.I am trying these, haven't hooked them up yet but they fit under the front seats pretty good, almost like they are made for it though I may have to raise the seats 1/4" to 1/2" to get them all the way up under the seat (or possibly remove the carpet/padding below the speakers to get clearance).
I saw a YouTube of someone putting the hideaway inside the rear side panel in oem sub area. It was the 8” but I think both hideaways are same footprintNice. What's under your seat? I have a Kicker HS10 sitting here ready to go, looks like I need seat lifters to fit it...I don't want to put it in the back (ATX weather has been too good, I forsee leaving the top off as much as possible), and real stealth options are few/far between.
You really don't need any instructions. I just watched the video and got everything apart, installed and back together with no issues. The video is really all you need to get the dash off. The rest is pretty simple.Read through the bulk of the responses here but on the video posted on page 1 it looks like he is following some paper installation instructions which were not included in my kit.
Tried searching plugnplay website but could not find any installation instructions there either.
Anyone know how to go about getting a copy of the installation instructions? I'm not an audio expert and any additional guidance I can get would be welcomed.
Quick question.I installed a Kicker Key 200.4 amp in my BaseSquatch today and it made a HUGE difference. It was a straight forward install that took about an hour and a half. The install was made easy because of the harness from plugnplaykits.com. There was no need to cut, splice or drill anything. As you will see in the video below, it litterally was a plug and play operation.
The Kicker Key amp has a build-in automatic DSP that fixes Ford's terrible signal as well as adding 50 watts per channel. The combination is amazing. I have a nice 3 way component speaker set waiting to install in the front and now I'm not even sure I will bother. That is just how big of improvement this is.
I have suspected that Ford is intentionally degrading the sound quality of the base system in an effort to get customers to upgrade to the B&O. These amp and more importantly the smart DSP that is integrated in it really brings the entire stereo to life. Spend you money on this before you spend it on speakers. Good speakers can't fix low power and poor signal.
I put together a quick installation video but wasn't able to show the self tuning step because I needed my phone to play the kicker pink noise DSP turning track. If you want to see that step other installation videos show you how to do that.
Edit: the harness and amp are "Kit 11". Here is the direct link to the bronco kits.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698473662
@plugnplaykits has the whole setup with HS10 , check kit 11-6 iirc on the site. Highly recommendQuick question.
I am wanting to do the same thing, but add a HS10 Sub. Do i need a different harness? I am having trouble figuring that part out.
One thoughts (But I am not an audio guy. I probably don't know what I'm talking about here;;My setup:
Kicker Key 200.4 + Kicker KCS404's (Dash) with 600 bass blocker
(Stock kick panel & rear pods)
DC/ Fader On/ Compression On/ Bi-amp Off/ EQ En/ TD En
Question:
Anybody having trouble with muddy(?) sound?
(I am a newbie and not sure how to describe it)
When DSP turned on (X2 beeps), fuller sound with much better sound stage (centered)
BUT!, it is muddy!(? worse with Cello solo) - not clean sound/ All instruments (frequencies?) are fighting each other by all trying to move forward?
When DSP turned off (X1 beep), it becomes much cleaner and organized sound but loses all sound stage and sounds very thin/flat (I can hear it comes out of each speaker).
Tried turning off EQ. It helps tiny bit but not enough.
Any advice/ help on setting?