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DREWR13

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Drew, aren't you running a lift? How about tire size? Remember reading you have some upgrades, but can't remember which and to what extent.
I'm running the ICON stg 4 coil-overs, rock jock lower rear links and 37 BFG KM3's
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I confirmed they do in fact fit...I ordered them from Ford but they won't ship until the end of this month. If yours are as strong as the 3.0 (and cheaper) with no restrictions for clearance or function I would go with yours. What is the ballpark figure for readily available/in stock? I know a lot of vendors are having a tough time with supply chain woes. The only tricky part with installing the 3.0s on the 1 and 2.0 rack is that the 3.0 boots are too big for the 1 and 2.0 rack and the 1 and 2.0 boots are slightly too big for the 3.0 inners...so when swapping them out one needs to stretch the 1 or 2.0 boot over the 3.0 inner. Not a huge deal but something to keep in mind.
Like I said above the projected availability is sometime in January. Thanks for that info about the boot fitment vs 3.0. Sounds like a 3.0-specific application for these will only need a specific boot.
 

MadMan4BamaNATL

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I'm running the ICON stg 4 coil-overs, rock jock lower rear links and 37 BFG KM3's
Ahh, so the stg 4s have a small lift? Well, between that and the 37s, yeah, a rack upgrade will be good for you once your wallet recovers of course! :)
 

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Ahh, so the stg 4s have a small lift? Well, between that and the 37s, yeah, a rack upgrade will be good for you once your wallet recovers of course! :)
Yea I think I'm around 3in lift how I have them setup. I will drop the upgraded rack in as soon as Ford releases the software to make it work. Already snapped one tie rod in the meantime lol
 

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I'm not mechanically inclined, but am technologically inclined, I do computer stuff all day long (hardware/software). Curious how difficult it'll be to swap these out in my garage. I only have the jack that came with the Bronco, will I need to order a proper jack to put the truck in the air to do this? Would it be easier to just take it to a shop or dealership to install these?

Thank you for making these, looking forward to some upgrades.
Sorry if someone already replied with this, but please get a floor jack and more importantly jack stands if you're going to be working under the vehicle. Check blocks are a must as well, but that can really be anything that keeps the vehicle from rolling on whichever wheels are on the ground (if any).
 

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Yeah these are the reason our coilovers have a bit less room for aftermarket tie rod braces than other MFG's coilovers. We had these in the works as our answer to the weak stock tie rods so we used some of that space to design a longer coil spring for longer travel and make it height adjustable over a longer range (including stock height). That actually got us into a little bit of trouble as we over-estimated the tolerances we had to work with and that resulted in interference on some installations. But these tie rods will work with our coilovers along with the adjustments we've made to our coilover kits and installation, which have been discussed over in that thread.

I have the early coilovers with the clearance issues for tie rod braces. I did receive the bar pin sleeve kit but have not installed it yet as I decide my next move. If I use these tie rods, will I need to install the kit as well, or will the original specs of the early coilovers have enough clearance?
 

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Would you please take my money? Or at least put me on the list to trial these for you? I am happy to put them on my Bronco and beat them up for you. Heck, I would even pay for them if I could get on the early release list. These will not sit on your shelves long at all!
 
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I have the early coilovers with the clearance issues for tie rod braces. I did receive the bar pin sleeve kit but have not installed it yet as I decide my next move. If I use these tie rods, will I need to install the kit as well, or will the original specs of the early coilovers have enough clearance?
It's possible you may still need to move the bottom end of the shock back slightly in order to clear these. If you find you do need the clearance you can simply spin the lower shock mount around 180-degrees so the long end of the bar pin points to the front, moving the cup away from the tie rod. If you do that, we have a sway bar drop bracket that moves the sway bar back slightly to gain clearance on the back side of the coil cup.
 

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It's possible you may still need to move the bottom end of the shock back slightly in order to clear these. If you find you do need the clearance you can simply spin the lower shock mount around 180-degrees so the long end of the bar pin points to the front, moving the cup away from the tie rod. If you do that, we have a sway bar drop bracket that moves the sway bar back slightly to gain clearance on the back side of the coil cup.

Tell me more about this sway bar bracket? Is it designed for lifted geometry as my current sway bar is too tight and does not allow a lot of articulation . I'm waiting on Rockjock to come out with their adjustable sway bar, but if your bracket will move it back more to the original position, that might work.
 
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Tell me more about this sway bar bracket? Is it designed for lifted geometry as my current sway bar is too tight and does not allow a lot of articulation . I'm waiting on Rockjock to come out with their adjustable sway bar, but if your bracket will move it back more to the original position, that might work.
Send Scott an email at [email protected] and he can answer all your questions about it and get you set up if it turns out you need it. It's just a simple pair of plates that moves the sway bar mounts backward an inch or so and downward the thickness of the plate, like 1/2" or so.
 

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jonesh242

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Awesome!...now I can seriously consider an ICON Stage kit along with the proper tie rod ends. Well done.
 

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Send Scott an email at [email protected] and he can answer all your questions about it and get you set up if it turns out you need it. It's just a simple pair of plates that moves the sway bar mounts backward an inch or so and downward the thickness of the plate, like 1/2" or so.
Scott's email inbox just blew up. "Thanks... Dusty" :p
 

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Tie rods are not designed to be a fuse. Just because they break before the rack does, doesn't mean that is how they were engineered. Show me some steering racks that have broken with stock sized tires and upgraded tie rods. I don't any reason not to run these Icon tie rods with the stock steering rack. You can break an anvil if you hit it hard enough, that doesn't mean the anvil was poorly deigned.
There’s a report on this forum of a tie rod being snapped while turning in the driveway.
 

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