No way, you'll tear the boot. It's literally two good whacks from below with a small sledge and it pops out. Replacing these it about a 10 minute job in the garage, maybe 30 on the trail.
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ICON XD Forged Tie Rods
- Thread starter Dusty at ICON
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apparently the HOSS 3.0 inner tierods work on the standard rack so don't see why these wouldn't if that is the case.
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This. For the 6G, a few taps of a hammer has never let me down, but there was a guy that posted a couple weeks back that couldn't get it to pop. A screw style separator is safe to use in that case.
This is fantastic, exactly what I've been waiting for. I've got friends who full-send their ICON suspensions and it's seriously quality stuff. I'll be ordering these when they are available, and saving my pennies for a full ICON setup. Nice job.
I wonder if his were over torqued? I've had mine on and off several times now and with the right torque, it's no issue. Of course these trucks are all fairly new, who knows what 20 years of mall crawling will do.
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mine popped out very easily the 2 times I have taken it out. Little whack and good to go
I am indeed, as my doctor says, but that's besides the point.
You're asking for "evidence" of something that is pretty well known at this point. Not just of the Bronco, but any vehicle in a similar situation.
Tie rods are designed to be sacrificed under stress to save your steering rack. Stronger tie rods mean your steering rack is more exposed to extra force/strain, which leads to a failure.
a tie rod can be replaced on a trail, a steering rack, not so easily. So, the point that's been made is that if you upgrade your rods to something stronger, your rack should be as well. None of this is cheap, but wheeling has never been cheap or easy; thus all of the fun!
If you want evidence, research and look for it; it's out there. We're just giving you tips and options or suggestions. Mileage will vary verses your unique situation, conditions, and level of risk tolerance.
Basically, this forum ain't a Google search. However, you can use a Google search to uncover all the evidence you may need to make a decision that is best for you.
Thank you, drive around....
Drew, aren't you running a lift? How about tire size? Remember reading you have some upgrades, but can't remember which and to what extent.
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Come back and see me when you blow out your rack.
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Just being cautious until we confirm it for ourselves. We seem to get in trouble when we make assumptions on what fits what LOL. If they're interchangeable that's a good thing.
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Me too.
I confirmed they do in fact fit...I ordered them from Ford but they won't ship until the end of this month. If yours are as strong as the 3.0 (and cheaper) with no restrictions for clearance or function I would go with yours. What is the ballpark figure for readily available/in stock? I know a lot of vendors are having a tough time with supply chain woes. The only tricky part with installing the 3.0s on the 1 and 2.0 rack is that the 3.0 boots are too big for the 1 and 2.0 rack and the 1 and 2.0 boots are slightly too big for the 3.0 inners...so when swapping them out one needs to stretch the 1 or 2.0 boot over the 3.0 inner. Not a huge deal but something to keep in mind.
No, I know how to install it, but if it lasts but gets loose with age and use, is it rebuildable or do you have to purchase the components all over again.
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Tie rods are not designed to be a fuse. Just because they break before the rack does, doesn't mean that is how they were engineered. Show me some steering racks that have broken with stock sized tires and upgraded tie rods. I don't any reason not to run these Icon tie rods with the stock steering rack. You can break an anvil if you hit it hard enough, that doesn't mean the anvil was poorly deigned.
Well, we are talking about off roading. Add to that, reality is that many will look to add a lift; not many are experienced enough to understand that cheap lifts, like spacer lifts aren't really for serious wheeling, but cost leads many down that road.
If you're bone stock (which I will be for the first 3 years of ownership), no, your tie rods shouldn't break unless you hit them on an obstacle.
But, again, many want the look of a lift. Some want to run 37s with no further upgrades, so both of these scenarios are likely to lead to a broken tie rod for those who go off road where rocks are involved.
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