ICON Complete Coilover Suspension Systems (Stages 3 through 8)

[ChrisInSC]

Looking good!
This is promising as I also have a Badlands. The rear reservoir location seems to be tricky with aftermarket sliders. I believe someone had a hard time finding a location with the RSE step sliders.
Have you had time to play with the CDEV system? The ability to switch between 'sport' and 'comfort' modes sounds amazing in my head. I would love to hear some feedback after you've had some time with it.

CDEV in my limited experience has been cool, the computer calculates the G effects and adjusts as needed when cornering laterally and vertically. I haven't had a chance to take them out on the trail yet as I wasn't comfortable until I got the tierod issues cleared up. I also still need to install the JKS max tire clearance kit still, while my rubbing is almost nonexistent when street driving I want to make sure on the trail I don't have any issues. This weekend is looking like a heater here in SoCal so I may not have it out for 2 weeks. I will report back with the performance once I get a chance.

I think because of where the rock slide engineering sliders are mounted you need to find alternative locations when using these. I have Shrockworks frame-mounted sliders and I needed to trim a little of the included reservoir skid plate to make it work. I'll grab some pictures tomorrow.

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[JustSendItDude]

Wow, that's crazy, what trim do you have? Did you install them yourself? Even before the fix mine was never that bad. is it only like that at full droop? I will get some photos tomorrow at full droop to see what mine are like.

I've got a non-SAS Black Diamond, so the sway bar is slightly different from the Badlands due to the electric disconnect vs. the non. Yeah, I've done all the installs myself, and yes, the contact is at full droop.

The guys at ICON have been incredible, though, and I've been working with them quite a bit over the last two days. They're sending out another potential fix today, and I hope to get it on the Bronco this weekend. They are sending a spacer to install between the sway bar and where it is attached to the frame. They've done some testing with it, and they said there is "significant space between the link and coilover", and they feel this will do it for me. So I'm a lot more optimistic about this fix. I'll report back once I get the plates installed.

While waiting on those, I've got to figure out how to get my cv joint back into the differential. Does anyone have tips or tricks to get it back into its place easily? I've never swapped or installed one before, and there are not many videos for the Bronco.

 

[Defyfate11]

I've got a non-SAS Black Diamond, so the sway bar is slightly different from the Badlands due to the electric disconnect vs. the non. Yeah, I've done all the installs myself, and yes, the contact is at full droop.

The guys at ICON have been incredible, though, and I've been working with them quite a bit over the last two days. They're sending out another potential fix today, and I hope to get it on the Bronco this weekend. They are sending a spacer to install between the sway bar and where it is attached to the frame. They've done some testing with it, and they said there is "significant space between the link and coilover, and they feel this will do it for me. So I'm a lot more optimistic about this fix. I'll report back once I get the plates installed.

While waiting on those, I've got to figure out how to get my cv joint back into the differential. Does anyone have tips or tricks to get it back into its place easily? I've never swapped or installed one before, and there are not many videos for the Bronco.

Here are two pics of the disco sway bar and should clearance be a problem with my swaybar and it doesn't look like it would be. I know that I would choose to keep my Stage 8 ICONs and fabricate an extension to the sway bar brackets to slightly slide back about 3/4". It looks like it would require welding a flat plate to the back of the location mount (Frame) for the extension to work, also would require drilling a new hole for the skid plate mount. The performance of a swaybar is not going to be affected and I would retain the longer coil to absorb energy better and a longer shock body for more fluid and smoother impact absorption; to complement these extra gains you will also gain better travel (11.5") front. Wish I had the time to knock this out and show that modifying lesser important components for greater performance gains in suspension will be totally worth it i.e. Swaybar/Tie rods. I know It's been said I am crazy, but it's not the first time that I have done custom modifications to significantly improve on the factory design one example (2007 FJ Cruiser structural inner fender bulges, solution unlayer OEM design by drilling out all spot welds and install and spot weld revision # 3 inner fender 2010+ models) that project requires some extensive experience in autobody repair, luckily I knew a guy who owned their own shop and we tackled it.

 

[Defyfate11]

I've got a non-SAS Black Diamond, so the sway bar is slightly different from the Badlands due to the electric disconnect vs. the non. Yeah, I've done all the installs myself, and yes, the contact is at full droop.

The guys at ICON have been incredible, though, and I've been working with them quite a bit over the last two days. They're sending out another potential fix today, and I hope to get it on the Bronco this weekend. They are sending a spacer to install between the sway bar and where it is attached to the frame. They've done some testing with it, and they said there is "significant space between the link and coilover", and they feel this will do it for me. So I'm a lot more optimistic about this fix. I'll report back once I get the plates installed.

While waiting on those, I've got to figure out how to get my cv joint back into the differential. Does anyone have tips or tricks to get it back into its place easily? I've never swapped or installed one before, and there are not many videos for the Bronco.

Here is a video that might help with the CV Install (go to the 15min mark). Basically, though you make sure that the seal on the transfer case is in good order no damage to the structural integrity upon when the CV axle popped out. Then make sure there is enough room as possible so you can place the axle straight in the transfer case, with that you can either try and ram it in straight using both arms or get a nice large dead blow hammer (Harbor Frieght) and while keeping the axle straight tap it in till it bottoms out. After the axle is seated then you can fit it through the wheel hub.

 

[Merc4x4]

From all my research Icon coilovers are a top quality part and definitely something I'd like to run.

I think the breakdown is the difference between 'suspension kit' and 'coilovers that fit the Bronco'. I too wouldn't mind modifying the bronco to fit parts, but I'm not in a position where I can fab up parts except for very simple modifications, e.g. using extra washers as spacers or bending and drilling thin metal for quick bracket.

Its great to see Icon working with customers and possibly accepting returns. That's unheard of to me on race coilovers. I'm confident they will come up with solutions for trim differences and manufacturing tolerances. Thank you to all the early purchasers who are helping flush out the 'kit' part. Even if I didn't do the install myself, it will cut down the time (and frustration) my favorite 4x4 shop installing these. Guidance and parts from Icon to attain proper clearances will go a long way.

I understand the frustration some are feeling. I would be in their shoes without the time/facility to work through the modifications needed to fit these.

Looking forward to the solutions and maybe one day running the CDEV setup on my Badlands.

 

[Ingridthehorrible]

@Dusty at ICON

Any update as to possible Android app for CDEV shocks, looking to upgrade the coil overs in the very near future and place an order, presently the ICON CDEV are at the top of the list, however no Android app is most likely will be a deal breaker as I can't justify buying an ISO device just to tune / control the shocks.

Have been following the thread and the installation problems, have faith that ICON will get the issues shorted out and resolved. I assume new orders will have the fixes applied before shipment? Have a BL-SAS and not using a tie rod sleeve, which from reading the thread appears to be the combination least likely to have fitment issues.

What's the present projected lead times for the 48700E, 48710E and 43501.

Last time I asked they were working on it but I haven't heard a recent update. If I can get some updated info I'll let you know. For anyone else, please don't make your purchase decision (for Stage 8 systems) based on speculation of future Android compatibility LOL. I don't want to be on the hook for that!

 

[Theherofails]

For those of you who went to 37s with the adjustable coilovers (48710c and 48700c), did you need to extend your bump stops with the Icon kit? I can't find an answer anywhere on that particular question but I see the icon kit for sale.


Also, how are you guys solving the issue of the reservoir hose being uncomfortably close to the UCA/coil?

I'm already seeing signs of rubbing on the res hose.

 

[rtaylor]

While waiting on those, I've got to figure out how to get my cv joint back into the differential. Does anyone have tips or tricks to get it back into its place easily? I've never swapped or installed one before, and there are not many videos for the Bronco.

I swapped my CV axles several times tying to get the RCV axles to work, but never with the coilover installed.
Without removing the coilover, the best bet is probably to disconnect swaybar and jack up the LCA to make the axle as level as possible. Remove the wheel nut, then try pushing on the axle end and see if it will snap into place. OK to use a mallet if needed (on mine, the factory axle was very tight in the knuckle bearing). Retorque wheel nut (300Nm/221 ft-lb in continuous motion).

 

[Merc4x4]

For those of you who went to 37s with the adjustable coilovers (48710c and 48700c), did you need to extend your bump stops with the Icon kit? I can't find an answer anywhere on that particular question but I see the icon kit for sale.


Also, how are you guys solving the issue of the reservoir hose being uncomfortably close to the UCA/coil?

I'm already seeing signs of rubbing on the res hose.

you've probably seen this and are looking for suggestions from forum members, but just in case...

Hey guys if you have ICON remote reservoir coilovers along with our billet UCA's and you're seeing contact between the hose and UCA or coilspring (or both), please contact our customer service specialist Scott Spiva directly at [email protected]. In most cases the fix will require some minor adjustment to the hose clocking and/or the UCA pivot adjusters, which Scott can work you through if you are willing to do it yourself. If you're not, Scott is authorized to make whatever arrangements it takes to make you happy with your ICON products.

 

[DREWR13]

For those of you who went to 37s with the adjustable coilovers (48710c and 48700c), did you need to extend your bump stops with the Icon kit? I can't find an answer anywhere on that particular question but I see the icon kit for sale.


Also, how are you guys solving the issue of the reservoir hose being uncomfortably close to the UCA/coil?

I'm already seeing signs of rubbing on the res hose.

I'm just running the stg4 coilovers with 37's but I did NOT install the bump stops or limiters. I haven't had any issues yet. I have 37x12.50 BFG KM3's on 17in wheels with a 0 offset.

I might have some rubbing issues if I stuffed the front this far while off-roading. Haven't done it yet tho.

 

[Lxatoledo]

Jesus Christ, issues on top of issues. I don't feel bad now for cancelling my order. I'm just going to go with the blistein 6100's now for a while. Hopefully they get here by the end of the week to solve my other suspension issue. Aka.. blown out spring perch from shitty perch collar install.

Agree.. If there is this much "how to fix" advice on these things, then they are not the right thing to put on your rig right now. My Bilstein SAS set up is good (for now), softer than I like, but let these issues sort themselves out. Once they figure it out and have some good reviews, will swap out. TBD.

 

[ChrisInSC]

I'm just running the stg4 coilovers with 37's but I did NOT install the bump stops or limiters. I haven't had any issues yet. I have 37x12.50 BFG KM3's on 17in wheels with a 0 offset.

I might have some rubbing issues if I stuffed the front this far while off-roading. Haven't done it yet tho.

When I was at the facility on Tuesday, we talked about the bump stop spacers, you may want to add them as they said the tire could blow out/dent your fenders at times depending on off road conditions.

here is the part numbers.

 

[Defyfate11]

When I was at the facility on Tuesday, we talked about the bump stop spacers, you may want to add them as they said the tire could blow out/dent your fenders at times depending on off road conditions.

here is the part numbers.

I had called up tech support on two separate occasions and was strongly encouraged to add those bump stop spaces to limit up travel on 37"+ tires. They said their R&D team had determined that it was absolutely needed. I am guessing it would be for fast desert speed or sand dune environments. Either way, they are easy to install and I added it while I had the coils off but they are easy enough to do with the coils on. I also called up Adv Fiberglass Concepts with their 2" & 5" wide fenders and asked if their product provided extra wheel well clearance for larger tires. The tech said no that it actually reduced clearance... I will call up again at a later time or maybe someone on the forum will be able to provide better real-life experience with their aftermarket fenders.

 

[ChrisInSC]

I had called up tech support on two separate occasions and was strongly encouraged to add those bump stop spaces to limit up travel on 37"+ tires. They said their R&D team had determined that it was absolutely needed. I am guessing it would be for fast desert speed or sand dune environments. Either way, they are easy to install and I added it while I had the coils off but they are easy enough to do with the coils on. I also called up Adv Fiberglass Concepts with their 2" & 5" wide fenders and asked if their product provided extra wheel well clearance for larger tires. The tech said no that it actually reduced clearance... I will call up again at a later time or maybe someone on the forum will be able to provide better real-life experience with their aftermarket fenders.

Yeah, I added on mine because I do a lot of desert/sand driving and don't want to damage my fenders. I actually was thinking about removing the sas flares when I go out.

 

[DREWR13]

When I was at the facility on Tuesday, we talked about the bump stop spacers, you may want to add them as they said the tire could blow out/dent your fenders at times depending on off road conditions.

here is the part numbers.

I can see how that would happen on some high speed stuff. ALL my off roading is 4low and crawling. Ill keep an eye out and see if I make contact anywhere.

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