Tow Package arrived - contents inside

[flip]

As a non-expert attempting to do some internet research, it seems like a J2534 adapter and a subscription to the Ford FJDS software might do the trick. I found some technician tutorials for programming things like PCMs when replacing a transmission. I have to believe it should be similar… any insight is very welcome

I got nothin.

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[RubiconSasquatch]

@flip I believe you mentioned that you planned to "pick up" the brake signal somewhere under the dash. I'm about 3/4 of the way through a clean slate install of hitch, 4-way, 7-way, and brake controller. All that's left to do is figure out how I'm going to feed the brake controller the brake signal, then wire that part up. Based on schematics you posted in another thread, the brake wire should be blue/green. If that's true then do you have an idea where you'd tap into it? The brake controller will go behind the glove box... Trying to avoid pulling the whole interior apart to find that one wire. Thanks in advance!

 

[flip]

There should be a connector under the dash about here

The 4 wires are pink from the brake switch, black/blue is ground, yellow red is 12V+ and solid blue is the brake output to the 7 pin connector. This is where you can pick up the output signal.

 

[beauseef]

Hello All!

Good news! my self installed factory tow package is installed, and it works flawlessly!

Parts I ordered:

C201 Pigtail: WPT-1607
Trailer tow module: M2DZ-19H332-A
Nuts for trailer module: W520101-S442 x4(4 come in one bag, don't order 4 bags!)
Ford trailer connector pigtail: WPT-1659
Ford trailer 7/4 pin plug with bracket: M2DZ-14A666-B
20 ft of trailer 6 wire cable from auto parts store
wire eyelet connector for the ground at the back
Hitch assembly: MB3Z-19D520-A
Trailer Brake accessory kit: VM2DZ-2C006-A

Remove the front drivers tire and fender liner. Connector 201 and connector 105 are right there. The top connector is 201, bottom 105.
You will need to disconnect the battery in your bronco for this!
Disconnect c201 and c105. Disassemble c201 and remove the plastic weather proofing pins from the gray backing piece for pins 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19. Remove the corresponding pins from the new pigtail WPT-1607. I broke the white piece in the front of the existing connector, so be careful! Luckily the new pigtail one came out without breaking and I was able to replace it. The starting and ending pins are labeled on the back of the connectors to help you install in the proper locations.

You will need to also disassemble c105 and complete the same process as above to install a new pin pigtail into pin 40 for reverse lights(if you want them, and I did).

Once the new wires were in place and the connectors reassembled I used the factory crimps and heat shrink that comes with the connector to attach the new black group of 6 wires to these wires. Keep in mind that not all of the wires will match the factory colors. I matched the color of the factory as much as I could, then I documented which colors I had to switch the other wires to for installation of the 7 pin trailer connector in the rear.

Stick your head in the wheel well area to look for the boot that the harness for C201 goes into the firewall. There is an accessory blank above it that I used to run the new wires. I used a razor blade to cut the face of it off completely. My trailer wire harness insulated in black was big enough to seal around it (get some dielectric grease for ease pulling this through)

I then removed the trim along the drivers side kick panel from the front to the back. BE PATIENT(take your time) the trim will come off with out breaking if you're careful! There are 2 nuts under the foot rest to the left of the brake pedal. The speaker grill hinges with two clips from the front of the vehicle to the back. The rest will pop loose with some non marking trim clip tools, and some heaving from your manly fingers! Mine are pretty sore from it

I ran the new wires under as many of the zip ties that I could. If you break one don't fret go get a bag of ties that are the same size and you can pop the black wire tray off the floor with you non marking trim tools to replace the ties.

Once the wires were above the drivers rear wheel well I installed the module with ordered nuts and plugged it in.

Get a new wire in the color of your choice and crimp, solder, and heat shrink an eyelet onto it and attach it to the ground right above the tow module mounting location.

Remove the drivers side rear taillight(mine is the LED package) to get mine out you will have to remove the drivers rear fender flare, small painted trim panel below the taillight and a black plastic/rubber trim between the taillight and the opening for the swing gate.

I cut a small x in the boot for the taillight and ran the 6 wire harness and the single ground wire down below the taillight to the hitch connection location. I then referenced my wiring colors used, and a break down of the trailer connector to crimp/solder/heat shrink the wires to their proper location.

Now if you're superstitious like me you don't reassemble anything until you verify that it works!

Don't be alarmed if your battery charging wire shows 0.0 volts on your multi-meter after install. It needs to see a battery, and certain conditions have to be met for it to charge such as trailer brake application with the foot pedal etc. Your trailer brake wire will put out a few volts. Don't be alarmed by this, it's normal.

I used forscan and the obdlinkex connector to turn on the trailer options in the APIM, BCM, and IPC etc. I tried to turn on the trailer light check, and factory TBC, but I turned them back off because they didn't work.

The only dtc that is in the TRM module U2100 initial module configuration not complete. Everything works just fine with this code present, and it doesn't turn any lights on, so I just let it be.

I reassembled the vehicle, and cleaned everything up. Make sure to install the tbc accessory during this time. Don't forget the hitch as well!

Thanks to @flip and previous posters, I utilized your images of the wiring diagrams and part numbers to get this started!!!

 

[Defyfate11]

Hello All!

Good news! my self installed factory tow package is installed, and it works flawlessly!

Parts I ordered:

C201 Pigtail: WPT-1607
Trailer tow module: M2DZ-19H332-A
Nuts for trailer module: W520101-S442 x4(4 come in one bag, don't order 4 bags!)
Ford trailer connector pigtail: WPT-1659
Ford trailer 7/4 pin plug with bracket: M2DZ-14A666-B
20 ft of trailer 6 wire cable from auto parts store
wire eyelet connector for the ground at the back
Hitch assembly: MB3Z-19D520-A
Trailer Brake accessory kit: VM2DZ-2C006-A

Remove the front drivers tire and fender liner. Connector 201 and connector 105 are right there. The top connector is 201, bottom 105.
You will need to disconnect the battery in your bronco for this!
Disconnect c201 and c105. Disassemble c201 and remove the plastic weather proofing pins from the gray backing piece for pins 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19. Remove the corresponding pins from the new pigtail WPT-1607. I broke the white piece in the front of the existing connector, so be careful! Luckily the new pigtail one came out without breaking and I was able to replace it. The starting and ending pins are labeled on the back of the connectors to help you install in the proper locations.

You will need to also disassemble c105 and complete the same process as above to install a new pin pigtail into pin 40 for reverse lights(if you want them, and I did).

Once the new wires were in place and the connectors reassembled I used the factory crimps and heat shrink that comes with the connector to attach the new black group of 6 wires to these wires. Keep in mind that not all of the wires will match the factory colors. I matched the color of the factory as much as I could, then I documented which colors I had to switch the other wires to for installation of the 7 pin trailer connector in the rear.

Stick your head in the wheel well area to look for the boot that the harness for C201 goes into the firewall. There is an accessory blank above it that I used to run the new wires. I used a razor blade to cut the face of it off completely. My trailer wire harness insulated in black was big enough to seal around it (get some dielectric grease for ease pulling this through)

I then removed the trim along the drivers side kick panel from the front to the back. BE PATIENT(take your time) the trim will come off with out breaking if you're careful! There are 2 nuts under the foot rest to the left of the brake pedal. The speaker grill hinges with two clips from the front of the vehicle to the back. The rest will pop loose with some non marking trim clip tools, and some heaving from your manly fingers! Mine are pretty sore from it

I ran the new wires under as many of the zip ties that I could. If you break one don't fret go get a bag of ties that are the same size and you can pop the black wire tray off the floor with you non marking trim tools to replace the ties.

Once the wires were above the drivers rear wheel well I installed the module with ordered nuts and plugged it in.

Get a new wire in the color of your choice and crimp, solder, and heat shrink an eyelet onto it and attach it to the ground right above the tow module mounting location.

Remove the drivers side rear taillight(mine is the LED package) to get mine out you will have to remove the drivers rear fender flare, small painted trim panel below the taillight and a black plastic/rubber trim between the taillight and the opening for the swing gate.

I cut a small x in the boot for the taillight and ran the 6 wire harness and the single ground wire down below the taillight to the hitch connection location. I then referenced my wiring colors used, and a break down of the trailer connector to crimp/solder/heat shrink the wires to their proper location.

Now if you're superstitious like me you don't reassemble anything until you verify that it works!

Don't be alarmed if your battery charging wire shows 0.0 volts on your multi-meter after install. It needs to see a battery, and certain conditions have to be met for it to charge such as trailer brake application with the foot pedal etc. Your trailer brake wire will put out a few volts. Don't be alarmed by this, it's normal.

I used forscan and the obdlinkex connector to turn on the trailer options in the APIM, BCM, and IPC etc. I tried to turn on the trailer light check, and factory TBC, but I turned them back off because they didn't work.

The only dtc that is in the TRM module U2100 initial module configuration not complete. Everything works just fine with this code present, and it doesn't turn any lights on, so I just let it be.

I reassembled the vehicle, and cleaned everything up. Make sure to install the tbc accessory during this time. Don't forget the hitch as well!

Thanks to @flip and previous posters, I utilized your images of the wiring diagrams and part numbers to get this started!!!

I purchased the Redarc Tow Pro controller from Ford Accessories for the Bronco, would I still need the trailer tow module that you listed above?

 

[beauseef]

I purchased the Redarc Tow Pro controller from Ford Accessories for the Bronco, would I still need the trailer tow module that you listed above?

yes, you need the trailer brake controller and the trailer tow module to power the trailer lights, the one you ordered from ford is the same one I installed.

 

[Fordtorino93]

This is what I did I was short some pins so not finished but pins came now I just need to find time. Only difference is I made my own harness so I had the factory gauge wires.

 

[clarkT]

Hello All!

Good news! my self installed factory tow package is installed, and it works flawlessly!

Parts I ordered:

C201 Pigtail: WPT-1607
Trailer tow module: M2DZ-19H332-A
Nuts for trailer module: W520101-S442 x4(4 come in one bag, don't order 4 bags!)
Ford trailer connector pigtail: WPT-1659
Ford trailer 7/4 pin plug with bracket: M2DZ-14A666-B
20 ft of trailer 6 wire cable from auto parts store
wire eyelet connector for the ground at the back
Hitch assembly: MB3Z-19D520-A
Trailer Brake accessory kit: VM2DZ-2C006-A

Remove the front drivers tire and fender liner. Connector 201 and connector 105 are right there. The top connector is 201, bottom 105.
You will need to disconnect the battery in your bronco for this!
Disconnect c201 and c105. Disassemble c201 and remove the plastic weather proofing pins from the gray backing piece for pins 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19. Remove the corresponding pins from the new pigtail WPT-1607. I broke the white piece in the front of the existing connector, so be careful! Luckily the new pigtail one came out without breaking and I was able to replace it. The starting and ending pins are labeled on the back of the connectors to help you install in the proper locations.

You will need to also disassemble c105 and complete the same process as above to install a new pin pigtail into pin 40 for reverse lights(if you want them, and I did).

Once the new wires were in place and the connectors reassembled I used the factory crimps and heat shrink that comes with the connector to attach the new black group of 6 wires to these wires. Keep in mind that not all of the wires will match the factory colors. I matched the color of the factory as much as I could, then I documented which colors I had to switch the other wires to for installation of the 7 pin trailer connector in the rear.

Stick your head in the wheel well area to look for the boot that the harness for C201 goes into the firewall. There is an accessory blank above it that I used to run the new wires. I used a razor blade to cut the face of it off completely. My trailer wire harness insulated in black was big enough to seal around it (get some dielectric grease for ease pulling this through)

I then removed the trim along the drivers side kick panel from the front to the back. BE PATIENT(take your time) the trim will come off with out breaking if you're careful! There are 2 nuts under the foot rest to the left of the brake pedal. The speaker grill hinges with two clips from the front of the vehicle to the back. The rest will pop loose with some non marking trim clip tools, and some heaving from your manly fingers! Mine are pretty sore from it

I ran the new wires under as many of the zip ties that I could. If you break one don't fret go get a bag of ties that are the same size and you can pop the black wire tray off the floor with you non marking trim tools to replace the ties.

Once the wires were above the drivers rear wheel well I installed the module with ordered nuts and plugged it in.

Get a new wire in the color of your choice and crimp, solder, and heat shrink an eyelet onto it and attach it to the ground right above the tow module mounting location.

Remove the drivers side rear taillight(mine is the LED package) to get mine out you will have to remove the drivers rear fender flare, small painted trim panel below the taillight and a black plastic/rubber trim between the taillight and the opening for the swing gate.

I cut a small x in the boot for the taillight and ran the 6 wire harness and the single ground wire down below the taillight to the hitch connection location. I then referenced my wiring colors used, and a break down of the trailer connector to crimp/solder/heat shrink the wires to their proper location.

Now if you're superstitious like me you don't reassemble anything until you verify that it works!

Don't be alarmed if your battery charging wire shows 0.0 volts on your multi-meter after install. It needs to see a battery, and certain conditions have to be met for it to charge such as trailer brake application with the foot pedal etc. Your trailer brake wire will put out a few volts. Don't be alarmed by this, it's normal.

I used forscan and the obdlinkex connector to turn on the trailer options in the APIM, BCM, and IPC etc. I tried to turn on the trailer light check, and factory TBC, but I turned them back off because they didn't work.

The only dtc that is in the TRM module U2100 initial module configuration not complete. Everything works just fine with this code present, and it doesn't turn any lights on, so I just let it be.

I reassembled the vehicle, and cleaned everything up. Make sure to install the tbc accessory during this time. Don't forget the hitch as well!

Thanks to @flip and previous posters, I utilized your images of the wiring diagrams and part numbers to get this started!!!

Question: you used the ford (class 2j hitch? Any reason why? Also, I have halogen tails. What changes in your instructions? I’m considering having the dealer install the hitch and 4 pin then adding the extras to get to 7 pin following your method. Any issue you see here?

That or the curt hitch and harness and the generic 7 pin conversion from extreme Terrain.

 

[beauseef]

Question: you used the ford (class 2j hitch? Any reason why? Also, I have halogen tails. What changes in your instructions? I’m considering having the dealer install the hitch and 4 pin then adding the extras to get to 7 pin following your method. Any issue you see here?

That or the curt hitch and harness and the generic 7 pin conversion from extreme Terrain.

I used the ford hitch for no particular reason other than it works with the factory connector that comes with the bracket that mounts right on with 1 bolt. I don’t think anything should change with halogen vs led, the wiring diagram didn’t specify either type.

The 4 pin accessory one is a universal kit that ford uses for the flex and other vehicles that don’t come with a tow package. It has a hot wire that has to go to the battery and spliced into the taillights. If you’re going to go through the trouble of running wires I wouldn’t do it twice by adding the other wires later because they will require the trailer module anyway and need to come from the front fender area. I wanted mine to be factory and integrated with the infotainment system for connection status and such.

Plus if you are running both the accessory and part factory I’m not sure how it will like the turn signals and brake lights coming from another source

 

[clarkT]

I used the ford hitch for no particular reason other than it works with the factory connector that comes with the bracket that mounts right on with 1 bolt. I don’t think anything should change with halogen vs led, the wiring diagram didn’t specify either type.

The 4 pin accessory one is a universal kit that ford uses for the flex and other vehicles that don’t come with a tow package. It has a hot wire that has to go to the battery and spliced into the taillights. If you’re going to go through the trouble of running wires I wouldn’t do it twice by adding the other wires later because they will require the trailer module anyway and need to come from the front fender area. I wanted mine to be factory and integrated with the infotainment system for connection status and such.

Plus if you are running both the accessory and part factory I’m not sure how it will like the turn signals and brake lights coming from another source

Any rough estimate on total cost of all the parts? I assume you ordered from your dealer or perhaps from @flip?

 

[beauseef]

Any rough estimate on total cost of all the parts? I assume you ordered from your dealer or perhaps from @flip?

The hitch, trailer brake controller, trailer wire harness I ordered from eBay and my local hardware store. Hitch was $299, trailer brake controller was $286 both from eBay.

The module, pigtails, and connector with bracket I got from my local ford dealer. I paid msrp I don’t like to, but I did, I had originally planned on them doing the install, but I have trust issues with others touching my things. The total from the dealer ended up being $486.

So with the factory option being just under $600 if you do it yourself you won’t be too far off from ordering it with the tow package, and buying the tbc accessory. It took me probably 10 hours or so to do, but I took my time.

You can order most if not all of the parts needed from tasca or fairway ford.

 

[clarkT]

The hitch, trailer brake controller, trailer wire harness I ordered from eBay and my local hardware store. Hitch was $299, trailer brake controller was $286 both from eBay.

The module, pigtails, and connector with bracket I got from my local ford dealer. I paid msrp I don’t like to, but I did, I had originally planned on them doing the install, but I have trust issues with others touching my things. The total from the dealer ended up being $486.

So with the factory option being just under $600 if you do it yourself you won’t be too far off from ordering it with the tow package, and buying the tbc accessory. It took me probably 10 hours or so to do, but I took my time.

You can order most if not all of the parts needed from tasca or fairway ford.

Thank you so much! It seems that I can save a little if I don’t buy the break controller kit right now (280 bucks) since my current trailer does not have electric brakes. But I only want to do the major wiring once so I figure installing the whole 7 pin capability like you did makes sense.

Is there anything you see wrong that would prevent the modules loading / unlocking and showing on the Synch screen if I skip the brake controller for now?

 

[beauseef]

Thank you so much! It seems that I can save a little if I don’t buy the break controller kit right now (280 bucks) since my current trailer does not have electric brakes. But I only want to do the major wiring once so I figure installing the whole 7 pin capability like you did makes sense.

Is there anything you see wrong that would prevent the modules loading / unlocking and showing on the Synch screen if I skip the brake controller for now?

No, everything else will work fine, but you will have to use forscan and the obdlink ex adaptor to go into the body control module (BCM) and the sync screen(APIM) and turn on the features. I’ll post pics of which settings I enabled. Everything should still work if you don’t enable them, but you won’t have the tow settings menu in vehicle features. The only code that persists is the initial module configuration incomplete on the trailer module (TRM) but everything still works fine.

 

[Sains66]

Is this a required component? Doesn’t this only give you the “sway control” in the dash? Seems like it mates perfect with the wires in the rear:

 

[flip]

That is the module but there is also wiring missing. Since your vehicle wasn't made with TT, you won't be able to download the software for the module to make it compatible with your vehicle. No, using a part from a vehicle with it won't work because the module with have a different VIN id'd to it and cause problems with the network.

Can someone really good with coding and programming to make it work? Possibly but I don't know what type of specialty stuff work be needed or who even does that type of stuff.

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