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Used Bronco search

Huntnfish

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Hi all! I’ve been reading through posts here for a while, but finally joined as my search for a pre-owned Bronco has officially started.

I’m primarily looking for a 2dr 7MT, but I’m also considering a 4dr if the right one comes along, probably in the $30K range. Here in the Northeast I’ve seen listings with anywhere from 40K to 125K miles, with asking prices often only a few thousand dollars apart depending on trim/options.

I’ve also come across a few with limited service history. On one side, that could simply mean the vehicle didn’t need any warranty work. On the other, it makes me wonder whether routine maintenance (particularly oil changes) was done consistently.

For those of you who have owned these for a while, what would you specifically look for when shopping used? Is there a mileage point where you’d simply walk away, assuming the price isn’t significantly lower? Would you consider a higher mileage Bronco if it had excellent maintenance records?

And for the 7MT specifically, is there anything beyond the known transmission grinding/TSB that you would consider a major issue?

I’m also debating an extended warranty, so I’m curious how much age/mileage would factor into that decision.

Appreciate any advice as there aren’t a ton of these available around here, so I’m trying to figure out where the sweet spot is between mileage, condition, options and price.
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ThunderFlash

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I bought used with 12K miles and saved some coin when new Broncos were still being sold above MSRP. I got a early '22 Wildtrak with Lux which were kind of "undesirable" vs a '23 or '24, but it was perfect for me because I had plans to change or add most of the items missing from the '22 model. To me, a manual or a V6 were kind of a wash and my wife won't drive a manual....so V6 it was.

When I look around more recently at used Bronco's, 2-door Black Diamonds seem to be the best values, and maybe more likely to be a manual. A base would be cool too if you can find one priced right. I think you'll be hard pressed to find a low milage truck in the $30K range, though.

I personally wouldn't walk away from a higher milage truck if it is priced appropriately, looks to be well taken care of, and is being offered by a reputable dealer. Most high milage trucks are freeway miles which are generally low stress miles. I'd look for a stock rig, unless you know exactly what modifications are on it and they are what you want. I'd look for signs of damage underneath, but most have never seen off road. Check for misaligned panels or paint over spray that might indicative of a repair. If you can't find service history, look for clean oil, filled radiator expansion tank, clean air filter, clean under the hood, etc.

The 7MT only comes with the 2.3L. I believe some significant improvements were made to the 2.3L for the '25 model year, so maybe keep an eye out for a good deal on a 2025. Also note that a painted top is much more desirable than an molded-in-color (MIC) top. Look for cracks on an MIC top and negotiate with that even if it doesn't have cracks....yet.

I don't have the manual or the 2.3L, so hopefully someone with more hands on experience will chime in. I have both a 2-dr and a 4-dr and I will say the 2-dr is far more fun and in my opinion, looks much better than our 4-dr.

Good luck in your quest. I absolutely love our 2-dr, so much that we decided to get the 4-dr later.

Edit: I was just looking on Carvana and maybe you can get a 2-dr manual with reasonable miles for a round $30K. I hope you can!
 
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Sparkie

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....
I’m primarily looking for a 2dr 7MT, but I’m also considering a 4dr if the right one comes along, probably in the $30K range. Here in the Northeast I’ve seen listings with anywhere from 40K to 125K miles, with asking prices often only a few thousand dollars apart depending on trim/options
....
Up here in Massachusetts, there are not many 2 door Broncos -- mostly 4 doors. I do see more 2 door Broncos when I do my road trips through southern states (below Virginia). So you might want to look around in those markets.
It seems like New England dealerships prefer using their limited Ford allocations for premium loaded (and more expensive) 4 door Broncos. I had a difficult time getting a dealership to place my 2 door 7MT order with Ford.
....
And for the 7MT specifically, is there anything beyond the known transmission grinding/TSB that you would consider a major issue?
...
At 30k miles, I have zero issues with my MT -- actually, no issues at all with my 2024 Bronco.
I've heard the earlier 7MTs had recalls, but I don't know much about that issue.
I will warn you that during our Massachusetts's winters, these Getrag (aka Magna) transmissions make a "rattling" noise. After the engine warms up the transmission, the noise goes away. For me, I have not seen any performance issues in cold or hot weather.
 

totaljustice

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Up here in Massachusetts, there are not many 2 door Broncos -- mostly 4 doors. I do see more 2 door Broncos when I do my road trips through southern states (below Virginia). So you might want to look around in those markets.
It seems like New England dealerships prefer using their limited Ford allocations for premium loaded (and more expensive) 4 door Broncos. I had a difficult time getting a dealership to place my 2 door 7MT order with Ford.

At 30k miles, I have zero issues with my MT -- actually, no issues at all with my 2024 Bronco.
I've heard the earlier 7MTs had recalls, but I don't know much about that issue.
I will warn you that during our Massachusetts's winters, these Getrag (aka Magna) transmissions make a "rattling" noise. After the engine warms up the transmission, the noise goes away. For me, I have not seen any performance issues in cold or hot weather.
I have a '24 Black Diamond 7MT and that rattle will get worse if left unchecked. Mine did it from new and I just thought it was the cost of doing business at first. Then I found out about the TSB. Took it in and they replaced the 5th and 6th synchronizers under warranty. After the repair, the noise was happening all the time regardless of which gear or temperature so back in it went and they replaced the whole transmission. Problem now solved.
 
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Huntnfish

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Thanks, everyone.

Opening up the search radius helps a little bit but shipping/trade-in, etc factor in. I noticed a black diamond for mid $20’s with almost 100K in NH but it’s already gone. The broader search had upper 20’s with less mileage-maybe it is trending in that direction.
 

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ThunderFlash

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I purchased a car on-line and sight unseen a few years ago. It was down in Carlsbad, CA and had it shipped up here to Seattle. It was a certified used car from a dealership so I was confident it was in good shape and came with a nationwide manufacturer's warranty. The transaction was a little bit of a PITA sending paperwork back a forth and it was a bit nerve wracking writing a big old check for a piece of equipment I hadn't actually seen, but in the end, it worked out well since I couldn't find what I was looking for locally....like anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. WA, OR, or ID.

The CarMax and Carvana might be an option as well. I think they both give you a brief warranty on your purchase if the car ends up being less than you expected.

Just some thoughts. If you know what a Bronco is about and that is what you want, you're gonna love it. Just don't expect BMW or M-B quiet, handling, and refinement in the cabin. It's a rugged truck.
 

Sparkie

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I have a '24 Black Diamond 7MT and that rattle will get worse if left unchecked. Mine did it from new and I just thought it was the cost of doing business at first. Then I found out about the TSB. Took it in and they replaced the 5th and 6th synchronizers under warranty. After the repair, the noise was happening all the time regardless of which gear or temperature so back in it went and they replaced the whole transmission. Problem now solved.
Yikes!
Thanks, if the rattle starts up again in the fall, I will take it into the dealership.
 

Beach_Bum

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Thanks, everyone.

Opening up the search radius helps a little bit but shipping/trade-in, etc factor in. I noticed a black diamond for mid $20’s with almost 100K in NH but it’s already gone. The broader search had upper 20’s with less mileage-maybe it is trending in that direction.
Separate the transactions of sale and trade-in. Sure you forgo the tax advantage of a trade-in, but that can be easily offset finding the spec you want at a great price.

I had mine shipped from Iowa for $850. Way cheaper than paying travel expenses and the time to fly and drive back.
 

Sparkie

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...
If you know what a Bronco is about and that is what you want, you're gonna love it. Just don't expect BMW or M-B quiet, handling, and refinement in the cabin. It's a rugged truck.
Hey @Huntnfish , @ThunderFlash has a good point for you to consider.
Your used or new Bronco will never "ride" as nice on the street as your Chevy Traverse.
But from personal experience, the Bronco DOES ride better than the Jeep Wrangler and I think it's more capable than a Wrangler on the trails.
 

T800

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I'd try to find one under 30K miles. Mostly because I consider that still 'new enough'. You are definitely limiting yourself if you want a 2 door MT.

The 2026 only comes with a 2.3. Not sure about which previous years have that limitation. Some older models have the 2.7.

I'd look on Carvana because they can ship it. When I was looking, shipping would run around $2K, so add that to the price.
 

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JL8jeff

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Brian_B

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Best of luck - 2Dr 7MTs are hard to come by. My heart was set on a HPR 2Dr Black Diamond, but couldn't find anything remotely close, so I "settled" on a 4Dr Carbonized Grey Big Bend - but I didn't compromise on the 7Mt. No Ragrets, as the meme goes.

As far as service/maintenance goes:

A good indication of if it's been off-roaded heavily will be looking at the mounts for the lower control arms in the front, and the control arms/shocks in the back. They tend to get beat up pretty bad when off roading significantly. (Off-Roading doesn't necessarily reduce the value any, just be more aware of early wear in suspension and the like)

Pre MY25, the 2.3L is a Direct Injection engine, so it will be susceptible to carbon build-up. Listen for rough idling, stalling when trying to accelerate heavily, or the notorious Check Engine Light.

Most 2.3's have a little bit of a rattle from the wastegate when starting cold - that's "normal" and doesn't seem to hurt anything. Some people have tightened up the shaft on the wastegate to eliminate it, but it goes away once the engine starts to heat up some.

Turbo should spool up all the way to about 18 psi if you push it hard. May have to get into 2nd or 3rd gear for the engine to actually be able to put enough power to the road to do it though. Normal to start to hear the turbo spooling around 5-7psi.

Clutch is always going to be a thing to consider on a used manual transmission vehicle. If it shifts nice and smooth (and it should - some have a bit of a hitch going from 1->2, but it shouldn't be anything major) then you should be ok for at least a while. Note - the 7MT likes to be shifted slow - if you try to rush the shift it will push back, but treat it like a large truck tranny and it should slide in nice and smooth. (*there is a bad joke just waiting to come out of that sentence if someone wants to jump on it, but it won't be me) That hitch between 1-2 can be mostly eliminated by changing out the transmission fluid (Redline MT-LV worked great for me)

You are either going to get a 4.46 or 4.70 gearing - 7MTs don't have any other options. Either is fine honestly. You can chirp 35's with either if you wanted to.

6th gear is mostly just for EPA numbers - it doesn't really save you any fuel over 5th except for some very specific instances - like going downhill, or during EPA testing.

At that price range, you are probably looking at Base/Big Bend/Black Diamond trim levels, and probably not SAS. Nothing wrong with any of them - Black Diamond will have a rear locker and some skid plates and is a really nice trim package IMO - the difference between Big Bend and Base is ... fog lights, slightly bigger tires and a leather wrapped shifter knob. I wouldn't really get to hung up on any of them though - there are only a few things you can't change out after the fact if you really want to, and most of them you won't really miss anyway.

These AGM batteries in modern cars don't like to live long. Don't be surprised if you have to replace it early. I didn't even get 2 years out of my first one, and it's not entirely uncommon for them to die young. First symptom is "weird random electrical things" - like random Check 4x4 faults or not wanting to crank... proceeding to Deep Sleep notices over the next few months, and shortly after that (weeks, maybe days) it will just be dead and leave you stranded.

I'm at ... 87k miles on mine right now - nothing besides self-inflicted damage so far. Clutch still shifts nice and smooth so far, no issues with the power train.
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