Maybe control the flow of the majority of the oil, then remove the plug to get the last drops to drain out? I’ve thought about removing my UPR every oil change just to make sure it is all flushed out.
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Yup, anyone who has damaged their oil pan with a Ronin plug did something stupid. They never have to come out. The only down side is they drain way slower than your typical plug.
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- #19
So I had more time to see how the UPR plug comes out. You have to use a very small/long flat blade screw driver to pry the tab closet to the bumper out then slowly turn the plug counter clockwise. This will force the tabs over the plastic hump. I suppose the UPR tabs were slightly bent inward which caused the issues with me trying to remove it. Such a pain. But glad it’s resolved. I guess if that’s all it’s not as bad as I thought. The real test will see how the o rings hold up over time and how easy it is to drain.
Any feedback on the performance of the UPR?So I had more time to see how the UPR plug comes out. You have to use a very small/long flat blade screw driver to pry the tab closet to the bumper out then slowly turn the plug counter clockwise. This will force the tabs over the plastic hump. I suppose the UPR tabs were slightly bent inward which caused the issues with me trying to remove it. Such a pain. But glad it’s resolved. I guess if that’s all it’s not as bad as I thought. The real test will see how the o rings hold up over time and how easy it is to drain.
Was curious to see if there is any weeping around where it connects to the oil pan.
@CarbonSteel and I have been discussing whether or not the UPR maybe superior to the Ronin... Any feedback you can provide would be appreciated!
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How secure is the screw-in drain part? Is it only held by the friction of tightening or something else? My concern is that it could loosen from vibration and empty the oil.
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Very secure. Its not going anywhere. Screw valve, does not loosen and its held in place by just friction and 2 o-rings. You simply tighten the valve and it locks in place. I hear it click when it locks in when screwing. So must be something in there that locks? No idea.
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For clarity, it is the blue part that clicks when screwed in? The black part has locking tabs that also click.
Just want to be sure I understand.
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I just installed my UPR plug. I had one in my F150 2.7 and really liked it. Super easy to use. Makes changes easy. Never tried removing it after install. If i get an iffy oil analysis i might. But those on the fence go for it. The ronin seems popular but the UPR is more popular in the F150 community and that’s what i know. Also have used there catch cans in the past and have on on my 24 Mustang GT
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Well I need to do my first oil change soon using the new UPR plug. I plan on removing the entire plug to see how well the magnet works and if it caught any metal. I’m not sure if removing the plug is necessary every oil change but wouldn’t hurt to wipe the magnet every other oil change.
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Careful with the UPR. On my second oil change I tried to unscrew the center piece to check for metal on the magnet. Well the magnet isn’t on the tip of that part, realizing after removing, but the main body that locks into place via the tabs. The inner blue part that unscrews also has a single o-ring on it. The outer body has 2 o-rings to seal to the pan. So 3 o-rings to watch for possible leaks…
So you must remove the whole plug to clean any metal off…
Yesterday I noticed oil under my rig, coming from where the inner piece (blue part) tightens down into the body. It was a very slow drip, but noticed it was trickling down my skids… Last night I removed my skid and loosened the blue piece and tightened, did this a few times, to hopefully reseat the o-ring and possibly work out any debri caught in the threads… Seems ok so far…
So I’m not sure if some dirt got in there or the o-ring is bad, but be careful with these… I don’t trust it given I changed the oil several weeks ago and just noticed the leak. I read on a few other forums about leaks like this, so it seems a little common with the UPR. I might be going back to the yellow plugs…
Also in the Ronin, I read of a lot of users cracking their pans trying to remove to clean the metal shavings. It doesn’t have metal tabs that bend like the UPR, to remove. Some said you have to push in on the Ronin to remove and then others said it’s not meant to remove?? Anyway, you can see the locking tabs are formed into the Ronin body and cannot be manipulated like UPR. Maybe this is the issue causing the cracks, people just cranking down o them trying to remove and cracking due to these tabs…
Anyway, something to think about…
So you must remove the whole plug to clean any metal off…
Yesterday I noticed oil under my rig, coming from where the inner piece (blue part) tightens down into the body. It was a very slow drip, but noticed it was trickling down my skids… Last night I removed my skid and loosened the blue piece and tightened, did this a few times, to hopefully reseat the o-ring and possibly work out any debri caught in the threads… Seems ok so far…
So I’m not sure if some dirt got in there or the o-ring is bad, but be careful with these… I don’t trust it given I changed the oil several weeks ago and just noticed the leak. I read on a few other forums about leaks like this, so it seems a little common with the UPR. I might be going back to the yellow plugs…
Also in the Ronin, I read of a lot of users cracking their pans trying to remove to clean the metal shavings. It doesn’t have metal tabs that bend like the UPR, to remove. Some said you have to push in on the Ronin to remove and then others said it’s not meant to remove?? Anyway, you can see the locking tabs are formed into the Ronin body and cannot be manipulated like UPR. Maybe this is the issue causing the cracks, people just cranking down o them trying to remove and cracking due to these tabs…
Anyway, something to think about…
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- #30
Thanks for the tips. I plan on doing my first oil change with the UPR plug in May. Will post how it goes.
Did you end up buying a half inch hose to drain plug?
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