Swamps Code Orange Bronco Raptor Build

[raptorusmaximus]

Transmission Fluid Flush (3X):

At 50k. Not going with the Ford 100k BS or whatever that is. There are plenty of posts/threads on this so I will keep it fairly brief.

I got prices for this, using a flushing machine to get all of the fluid out, from $250 to $1100, here in San Diego. Yes, $1100 . Unfortunately, when I got to the place that said $250, all of a sudden they did not have said flushing machine (suggested to drop pan and I'm sure only one drain/fill cycle) and their price also went up to $400-ish. I throttled my anger, explained my disappointment and said they need to do better on accuracy over the phone, on price and technique, and promptly walked out. This was Sparkys Transmission in Santee (San Diego). Don't give them any business!

• Put down 3x as much cardboard or plastic sheet as you think you will need as the pan drains very fast and will splash or possibly overwhelm your drain pan.
• I have the PPE extra capacity pan which adds 1.75 quarts to the 13.1 full capacity (13.1 is NOT the drain and fill capacity). Thus each drain, which was right about 6 1/4 quarts or 6 liters drained, gives 58% of the fluid remaining. Its a lot! So after 3 flushes, I should have 80% of the fluid totally new/fresh. Not as great of a percentage as I wanted but this went through about 21 quarts total and they are not cheap. I did this math wrong in another post (really just the inputs) as I had the pre PPE pan full fluid capacity incorrect. Of course you should "exercise" the transmission before draining after each refill, just use all of the gears on the stick and power brake it a bit in 1st and 2nd gear. Of course each flush had the fluid looking less brown and more red.
• I did overfill once using more like 7.5 liters. Don't do it, it's messy.
• My magnetic drain plug had a very thin and very fine layer on the magnet. I changed 1 flush at 1k and another single flush later when installing the pan. I'll do another 3x flush around 100k
• Unfortunately, the used o-ring on the plug did not look good at all. PPE lists a complete odd ball size o-ring, not appearing to be a metric nor imperial standard. I used a -119 viton and it is close and sealing fine. Make sure you get a replacement before starting the job (unlike me...)
• To work around the hot exhaust when getting the hot fluid level correct, I simply used two sweatshirts over one arm and a leather glove. I escaped all burns. I do have fairly thin arms.
• I'm sure its obvious, but you absolutely need a pump and hook type nozzle or similar to get the fluid into the trans. I used this one (Amazon) which has a nice shut off valve and flexible coolant style pipe (the blue section).

• Ford official warm operating temperature is somewhat difficult to reach without a ton of power braking. I got mine up to about 195 °F tearing around in Baja mode in Manual. I think Ford spec is 206-215 °F. Unfortunately, I checked mine with the engine not running, I just saw running is recommended here in another thread... Probably not a big deal @Ducati1098 ??

no clearance issues with the deep pan?

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[dougcjohn]

Transmission Fluid Flush (3X):

I got prices for this, using a flushing machine to get all of the fluid out, from $250 to $1100, here in San Diego. Yes, $1100 .

• I'm sure its obvious, but you absolutely need a pump and hook type nozzle or similar to get the fluid into the trans. I used this one (Amazon) which has a nice shut off valve and flexible coolant style pipe (the blue section).

• Ford official warm operating temperature is somewhat difficult to reach without a ton of power braking. I got mine up to about 195 °F tearing around in Baja mode in Manual. I think Ford spec is 206-215 °F. Unfortunately, I checked mine with the engine not running, I just saw running is recommended here in another thread... Probably not a big deal @Ducati1098 ??

Your price for a flush is pretty close to most areas, surprised San Diego isn't more. I'm in Iowa and to drain & fill a 10R140 is $400+ and to flush is above $1000 and watching several shops, they definitely don't know how or perform a flush.

You're using PPE's 10R60 / 10R80 Pan?
I would think most 10R60/80 pans would work for the Bronco.
Standard Capacity:
https://ppepower.com/products/heavy...kEYITHjQKFKLPEweWPCi7QSMeUt4-yDzK2T-d4_rc3DS4

Deep Capacity:
https://ppepower.com/products/cast-...4dNF-zULkG_72o5ghYdGvqjhEM7QCuzuoJ9IgIsW5Brz7

You're way ahead of my Bronco maintenance, I haven't gotten that far on my Raptor since only turned 1100 miles, but have done several Super Duties 10R140.

On the Flush several Techie ways to get a solid flush; I'll have to look at the Bronco... but if similar to the 10R140 with the Oil Cooler line connections to tranny with O-Ring smooth fittings. You can normally place a narrow wall 1/2" Heater Hose into Top Oil Cooler port on tranny and run hose down to drain pan. Install Tranny Pan and fill roughy to full, then start engine and watch fluid in pan. You'll see it pushing all the dark out... if you see drain pan get ample volume. Stop and pump more fluid into tranny and restart. Normally on 2nd Pan Fill (sometimes a 3rd fill) you'll see fluid change to clean red. Stop, move flush hose to bottom Oil Cooler line and insert a small 3" hose connecting the top cooler line to tranny cooler port and push a few quarts through Oil cooler. Cooler is last in the route after fluid travels the internal Tranny.

As you stated, several gallons.
Just as a handy tool tip: I've used several pumps but found this one to be great if you have a compressor near. The tank holds a good amount and the air pushes it into tranny nicely without constantly needing to pump a handle.

It also contains all the pilot tube connectors and fittings to easily connect the line.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN342TMR?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

 

[dougcjohn]

Nice... just watched a few videos.
Ford left the Dipstick in case on the 10R60 / 80.
Hopefully that's remains for my 2025 model.

Stub Dipstick or even dipstick hole have been plugged and sealed on 10R140 Super Duties.
It's all done now by pilot port tubes in bottom of pan.

 

[swamp2]

no clearance issues with the deep pan?

During a fluid flush? No .

 

[swamp2]

This is great, I've been thinking of doing mine as well. I checked PPE's website and they don't list a pan for the 3.0 do you know your part number?

328053600 is the deep version.

It fits both 10R60 and 10R80 trans.

 

[swamp2]

I would definitely double check it with the vehicle running. Fluid drains down into the pan pretty quickly when the vehicle is off and could certainly give you an inaccurate reading since the pump isn’t circulating fluid.

Yup, right about 1/2 quart low based on checking running vs. not. Thanks much!

 

[swamp2]

Got @Dirtriders custom (Raptor) upfitter jbox installed.

It's a nice, functional and well designed solution. Great attention to detail. Although my wiriing isn't exactly the cleanest, it's all safe/secured/sheathed/etc.

Prior, I had used some single pin Deutsch connectors to have the same quick change feature I now have in a much cleaner way (basically quick change for which upfitter switch connects to which accessory). There wasn't really any good way to keep this prior "rats nest" tidy. Here is all the crap I got rid of.

 

[swamp2]

Hyperco 2" lift HD Springs (Rear Only):

I kind of got 3 birds with one stone here. Removed spring collars (kind of a temporary/hack fix anyway), leveled the rear (vs. front) and now have springs more appropriate for my load and largely corrected the listing.

AI "guesses" that the factory rears are 210 lb/in and these Hypercos are 250 lb/in a 19% increase.

More back story here as to my sag and tilt...

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