OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #46
Cool, my guess was wrong. Looks like R button does indeed memorize ASS.
Unfortunately, even with my ASS disable hardware, the nag dialog for ASS disabled still shows up during start up.
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Unfortunately, even with my ASS disable hardware, the nag dialog for ASS disabled still shows up during start up.
ASS nag is the least of the screen start up nonsense - seat belt warning for 60 seconds is overkill and unnecessary.
Has anyone defeated this message?
.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #49
Changed all fluids yesterday at 7k miles in my Raptor (also did the same at 1k). Everything looked pretty clean witn minimal discoloration/metal. The rear diff cover came off and the inside was wiped down. Pictures here of the magnetic drain plug, cleaning it, the last part of the fluid draining as well as the ring gear.
Either the xfer case or front diff did not have a magnetic plug so added them. I think one of those now has a magnetic drain and fill plug since I had 2 new magnetic ones. Used the ones from earlier in this thread:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/change-driveline-fluids-early.83929/page-20#post-2172788
I'll probably move to 30k now on the fluids or maybe 20k of the rear.
431 ft lb is the spec for the lower strut mount bolts
.
Either the xfer case or front diff did not have a magnetic plug so added them. I think one of those now has a magnetic drain and fill plug since I had 2 new magnetic ones. Used the ones from earlier in this thread:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/change-driveline-fluids-early.83929/page-20#post-2172788
I'll probably move to 30k now on the fluids or maybe 20k of the rear.
431 ft lb is the spec for the lower strut mount bolts
.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #50
FMI leveling collars, front only. Raised the front very closed to 1.0”. I'll post a better full vehicle side shot on level ground soon.
Before
After
Lower strut to control arm bolt torque ix 431 ft lb
.
Before
After
Lower strut to control arm bolt torque ix 431 ft lb
.
Last edited:
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OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #51
Mabett Rear Cup Holder and Quadratec (longer) Spare Wheel Bump Stops
The center console bolt covers were tough to remove. I used 2 mini flat screwdrivers and managed to mar the plastic a bit (it gets covered anyway). Other than that, a simple install and great results.
I read somewhere else here that the grey horse logo on the floor mats was so thick the fellow had to carefully trim it down to get the cup holder to lock in place. That was not the case for me.
These Quadratec bump stops were more work than expected... Needed these due to non factory offset wheels rendering large gaps with factory stops. Ford used silly plastic fasteners with plastic drywall anchor-ish housings to secure the bumps stops to the gate. After twisting off the original stops, I was able to remove one fastener by getting the threads to bite via compressing the anchor housing with small pliers. The other one was completely stuck (endlessly spinning screw). So I had to remove both the spare tire mount and the gate/hinge cover just to get access to the fastener.
With an extra set of hands I used some sharp pointed wood spade bits to pry the fastener out of its housing. Although not the best solution, my custom fastener solution is definitely better than stock. I used an actual drywall anchor along with a stainless steel sheet metal screw and a fender washer inside the new stop. Although this might present some removal difficulties, it couldn't be worse than the OEM crap.
I got the lengths of the stops just right - longer than factory by the offset difference between the two wheels (34 mm). Quadratec said to cut the stops with a hacksaw which worked, but not well. After some practice cuts, I used a box knife instead. It's tough but it cut better than the hacksaw.
These stops are quite a bit softer than factory and almost seem too soft for their purpose. I guess I'm not too concerned as the spare mount itself is quite beefy.
The center console bolt covers were tough to remove. I used 2 mini flat screwdrivers and managed to mar the plastic a bit (it gets covered anyway). Other than that, a simple install and great results.
I read somewhere else here that the grey horse logo on the floor mats was so thick the fellow had to carefully trim it down to get the cup holder to lock in place. That was not the case for me.
These Quadratec bump stops were more work than expected... Needed these due to non factory offset wheels rendering large gaps with factory stops. Ford used silly plastic fasteners with plastic drywall anchor-ish housings to secure the bumps stops to the gate. After twisting off the original stops, I was able to remove one fastener by getting the threads to bite via compressing the anchor housing with small pliers. The other one was completely stuck (endlessly spinning screw). So I had to remove both the spare tire mount and the gate/hinge cover just to get access to the fastener.
With an extra set of hands I used some sharp pointed wood spade bits to pry the fastener out of its housing. Although not the best solution, my custom fastener solution is definitely better than stock. I used an actual drywall anchor along with a stainless steel sheet metal screw and a fender washer inside the new stop. Although this might present some removal difficulties, it couldn't be worse than the OEM crap.
I got the lengths of the stops just right - longer than factory by the offset difference between the two wheels (34 mm). Quadratec said to cut the stops with a hacksaw which worked, but not well. After some practice cuts, I used a box knife instead. It's tough but it cut better than the hacksaw.
These stops are quite a bit softer than factory and almost seem too soft for their purpose. I guess I'm not too concerned as the spare mount itself is quite beefy.
Last edited:
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #52
Finally got some as close to "apples to apples" pics of the before and after FMI front leveling collars. It really seems squatted out a bit a lot of the time I examine it, and despite the front fender gap being larger than the rear, it is pretty darn close to level. I have a bubble level app on my phone that seems pretty accurate and it shows the front is up from level 0.5-1.0 degrees.
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Before:
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- First Name
- Bo
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2022
- Threads
- 33
- Messages
- 862
- Reaction score
- 547
- Location
- Southern California
- Vehicle(s)
- Bronco Raptor, Bronco Wildtrak, Maverick, Tesla M3
- Your Bronco Model
- Raptor
Do FMI collars mount the same as RPG? Meaning, do you have to remove the oem snap ring on the shock and the new collar has an inner lip that serves as a built in snap ring? Or does FMI collars just sit above the oem snap rings basically serving as a spacer?FMI leveling collars, front only. Raised the front very closed to 1.0”. I'll post a better full vehicle side shot on level ground soon.
Before
After
Lower strut to control arm bolt torque ix 431 ft lb
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #55
Rockslide Engineering Tailgate Table:
This model has a high weight rating of 100 lb, has quieting bumpers, a bottle opener and magnetic clasp.
Although I'm sure the supplied sheet metal screws would achieve the stated weight limit, I (with plenty of support from my younger son) opted for a stronger and more easily removable mounting method - rivnuts.
Then we attached it with stainless M4 socket pan head cap screws and washers.
Finally done with quick lunches on top of a cooler, on my lap or on a nasty public picnic table.
Final tip: Upper right mounting hole has a backing steel sheet behind the visible body colored one preventing full rivnut insertion. The backing sheet was safely drilled without risking wiring or other components.
This model has a high weight rating of 100 lb, has quieting bumpers, a bottle opener and magnetic clasp.
Although I'm sure the supplied sheet metal screws would achieve the stated weight limit, I (with plenty of support from my younger son) opted for a stronger and more easily removable mounting method - rivnuts.
Then we attached it with stainless M4 socket pan head cap screws and washers.
Finally done with quick lunches on top of a cooler, on my lap or on a nasty public picnic table.
Final tip: Upper right mounting hole has a backing steel sheet behind the visible body colored one preventing full rivnut insertion. The backing sheet was safely drilled without risking wiring or other components.
Last edited:
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OP
- Thread starter
- #56
Rear Shock Mount Bolt Rehab/Protection:
I noticed some rock damage to the bolts (threads) connecting the lower shock mount to the axle.
These bolts just stick out too far into the "line of fire"...
I thread filed the threads to rehab them and added some stainless acorn nuts for future protection. I would have preferred a more sacrificial material like aluminum but couldn't locate anything.
Here is a source and spec for the nuts:
https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=94000A490
Final result:
I noticed some rock damage to the bolts (threads) connecting the lower shock mount to the axle.
These bolts just stick out too far into the "line of fire"...
I thread filed the threads to rehab them and added some stainless acorn nuts for future protection. I would have preferred a more sacrificial material like aluminum but couldn't locate anything.
Here is a source and spec for the nuts:
https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=94000A490
Final result:
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #57
Mabbet Aluminum Pedals:
I wanted a billet and more agressive bolt on set with a similar dead pedal design but decided to give these a try. They are entirely cosmetic.
I was initially concerned about the slip on design but not so after installing. The brake cover replaces the all rubber factory one and is also a slip on design. The fun pedal is slip on with a clever design preventing vertical slip which uses the small lip on the factory pedal.
I wanted a billet and more agressive bolt on set with a similar dead pedal design but decided to give these a try. They are entirely cosmetic.
I was initially concerned about the slip on design but not so after installing. The brake cover replaces the all rubber factory one and is also a slip on design. The fun pedal is slip on with a clever design preventing vertical slip which uses the small lip on the factory pedal.
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