Sub enclosure measurements

[CartierChiro]

Does anyone who has a B&O enclosure have the measurements for it? Trying to game plan the best swap with crutchfield but can’t find the measurements in any forums. TYIA!

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[Brian_B]

It's kinda funky shaped... here's a third-party enclosure that fits in that spot, although just a hair differently shaped.

https://www.gearshade.com/product/bronco-subwoofer-round/

The only thing Crutchfield might carry as a full replacement would be the JL Audio Stealthbox

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-OaMNq1NhN2T/p_13694718/JL-Audio-Stealthbox.html

Plenty of options if you don't want to go in the stock location and just want it to hang out in the rear end or bolted to the tailgate though.

Here is a popular one:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-8DOxBD16n3w/p_541TXFBB12/Stinger-TXFBB12.html

 

[mdube72]

Go with the GearShade square subwoofer - won’t regret it !
https://www.gearshade.com/product/bronco-subwoofer-square/

 

[CartierChiro]

Thanks guys unfortunately I already bought the b&o enclosure just haven’t been home to get to it and measure it. lol kinda tired of spending money at this point I think. I was just wondering if anyone had the measurements on hand by chance

 

[CartierChiro]

Lookin to go with a musway 6 ch w dsp for the speakers and a KK 500.1 for the sub. Just trying not to settle for the kicker just cause that’s what everyone else has done. But again tired of searching lol

 

[Brian_B]

If you have the stock B&O enclosure - a 6.5" sub fits no changes necessary. There is a fitment collar around the opening you can pry off, and in doing so an 8" will fit, no cutting required.

The stock non-B&O is a 6.5" and requires you to trim a bit around the edges of the opening to get an 8" to fit.

There aren't a whole lot of choices at 6.5, but 8" opens it up quite a bit.

Going any larger and you need a custom enclosure, like the Gearshade

 

[CartierChiro]

If you have the stock B&O enclosure - a 6.5" sub fits no changes necessary. There is a fitment collar around the opening you can pry off, and in doing so an 8" will fit, no cutting required.

The stock non-B&O is a 6.5" and requires you to trim a bit around the edges of the opening to get an 8" to fit.

There aren't a whole lot of choices at 6.5, but 8" opens it up quite a bit.

Going any larger and you need a custom enclosure, like the Gearshade

Yea I was planning to get busy with my drummer to get an 8” in but when I started asking crutchfield for recommendations they asked for the dimensions of the enclosure for the optimal choice. The problem is they don’t have any research on what yall have done in the forum so they can’t confidently make recommendations because out of the 600+pages of research they have on our car they don’t have the dimensions of the sub

 

[Brian_B]

Yea I was planning to get busy with my drummer to get an 8” in but when I started asking crutchfield for recommendations they asked for the dimensions of the enclosure for the optimal choice. The problem is they don’t have any research on what yall have done in the forum so they can’t confidently make recommendations because out of the 600+pages of research they have on our car they don’t have the dimensions of the sub

Ah I see what you mean.

Subwoofers are tricky. You need to not only fit the size of the hole, but there's the sealed/ported/vented thing, and the internal volume of the enclosure, and the diameter and depth of the port, and band pass order... and so on and so on. It gets... complicated.

If you have a square box (or any nice, easy Euclidean shape) you can get the volume easy, deduct for the internal volume of the sub - with cylindrical ports or easy band pass slots - and Bob's your uncle. But this enclosure is like a snail shell - anything other than easy. The dimensions won't really do you any good - unless you just really like high order math. Ford really just made an enclosure that fits inside the cargo area, stuck a speaker in it, and threw a port on it that was tuned to the junky subwoofer they wanted to cram in there.

The stock enclosures are ported. The volume is somewhere around 1.5cuft but I don't have a specific number. The port is in the back - and it's convoluted (like a trumpet or something) and not straight forward. If you are handy you can seal the enclosure and make it a bit more straight forward, but it's tricky.

So... you kinda just have to YOLO a speaker in there, and either you like how it sounds, or you don't. More or less that's the reason a lot of folks have just stuck with Kicker - it's a known quantity that works reasonably well in the face of a lot of variables that are hard to quantify.

 

[Johnny Mo]

Kicker Comp R 8" Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm, mated to a Key 500.1 wired for in parallel for 2 ohm and a remote volume knob. Kicker - 48CWR84 Don't forget the polyfill - I didn't overstuff or block the port, but I did make sure to stuff the port pretty goof and layer in the rest of the enclosure. Also KillMat all around the rest of the rear while you have all the panels off.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/D7PH3XB7oZyE5QmZA

 

[CartierChiro]

Ah I see what you mean.

Subwoofers are tricky. You need to not only fit the size of the hole, but there's the sealed/ported/vented thing, and the internal volume of the enclosure, and the diameter and depth of the port, and band pass order... and so on and so on. It gets... complicated.

If you have a square box (or any nice, easy Euclidean shape) you can get the volume easy, deduct for the internal volume of the sub - with cylindrical ports or easy band pass slots - and Bob's your uncle. But this enclosure is like a snail shell - anything other than easy. The dimensions won't really do you any good - unless you just really like high order math. Ford really just made an enclosure that fits inside the cargo area, stuck a speaker in it, and threw a port on it that was tuned to the junky subwoofer they wanted to cram in there.

The stock enclosures are ported. The volume is somewhere around 1.5cuft but I don't have a specific number. The port is in the back - and it's convoluted (like a trumpet or something) and not straight forward. If you are handy you can seal the enclosure and make it a bit more straight forward, but it's tricky.

So... you kinda just have to YOLO a speaker in there, and either you like how it sounds, or you don't. More or less that's the reason a lot of folks have just stuck with Kicker - it's a known quantity that works reasonably well in the face of a lot of variables that are hard to quantify.

Yea frustratingly enough that’s what I figured after feeling like I touched the bottom of the “bronco sub” data pool. Considering the stinger sub but again not trying to spend extra money. Thank you for the input!!

 

[NateTTU]

Kicker Comp R 8" Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm, mated to a Key 500.1 wired for in parallel for 2 ohm and a remote volume knob. Kicker - 48CWR84 Don't forget the polyfill - I didn't overstuff or block the port, but I did make sure to stuff the port pretty goof and layer in the rest of the enclosure. Also KillMat all around the rest of the rear while you have all the panels off.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/D7PH3XB7oZyE5QmZA

Do you think the Dayton Audio DCS205-4 would fit in the non B&O enclosure? It has a mounting depth of 4.25 so not much more than that Kicker.

 

[23OBX2.7]

PP you're just going to waste all money trying to get that 8" to work aside from an integrated LOC amp and maybe enclosure off your local classifieds. I tried haha.

 

[Johnny Mo]

Do you think the Dayton Audio DCS205-4 would fit in the non B&O enclosure? It has a mounting depth of 4.25 so not much more than that Kicker.

I have B&O do not really sure

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