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Stabar disconnect price

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johndeerefarmer

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For whatever it’s worth I disconnected the drivers side sway bar link on my 2021 ranger (same front suspension as the bronco) and have driven it all over the country 22,000 miles on and off road it has a 3” lift and 33’s there is a little bit more body roll but still drives fine in my opinion 🤷‍♂️
I considered trying but with a roof rack and kayaks or camping gear and winding roads I decided that wasn't a good idea.. People already say that with the 35's and Bronco's soft suspension you already get a little body roll
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B-Rad

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I considered trying but with a roof rack and kayaks or camping gear and winding roads I decided that wasn't a good idea.. People already say that with the 35's and Bronco's soft suspension you already get a little body roll
Yeah totally agree there. When I was fully loaded with overlanding gear and a rooftop tent it was significantly more noticeable
 

Jwall

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I really want something like a Rock Jock Anti-rock setup (basically a torsion bar). Less moving parts the better!
 

goatman

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How about stabar disco. LOL
Nowhere did I say I thought you could just throw one in there, but I have a better chance than most. Between 20 years in the electronics field and being a farmer I can fix and fab nearly anything.. My Deere's have canbus and isobus and I am familiar with them.
You might also be able to add it via FORSCAN

The point of the post was to see what the stabar costs and to see if the BL's premium over the BD was worth it. If the cost is anywhere near the MOPAR then the BL's premium is worth it.
Correct, it is a self containd unit, aside from a few wires to interface to the Badlands.

stabilizer-3_orig-gif.gif

Well.......that could have possibilities. If there is a part number for the complete unit, and it doesn't cost over 2k.....not likely.
 

goatman

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Here's a quick lookup of one.
autoLYNX SWAY BAR DISCONNECT [Pair]
Regular price $395.00

As an innovative company, we want to make products that stand out by fixing known issues that are an irritation for the off-roader.

The patent-pending autoLYNX was designed to make disconnecting the sway bar much faster and easier:


  • No need to fight a stuck QD link.
  • No need to find perfectly flat ground to connect or reconnect.

To disconnect the sway bar, just hop out and turn the knob a quarter turn and then do the other side. Takes less than 10 seconds. It’s easy to turn and that's it. Hop back in and drive.

You can do this on relatively un-flat ground up to 4” of articulation.

To reconnect, turn the knobs back to the lock position and push the sway bar down until you hear a “click” and that's it. Only one side needs to be pushed down to latch. As you drive, it will automatically latch the other side. Your Jeep can be at full articulation to re-latch the bar.

That is a cool product. Hope they make one for the Bronco, could be a real winner. It will need a ball joint on the bottom, and it needs for the top to not not hit anything. Good videos on the website about how it works.
 

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BroncoRick

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This is my same dilemma. Want the Black Diamond, but am wrestling with moving to the BL to get the Sta-Bar disconnect. It would be a "nice to have" for me, I have always manually disconnected my Jeeps.

Jeep's Rubicon disconnect is notoriously failure prone when it comes to mud and water ingestion. If you do any amount of water crossings and/or deep mud, or get stuck for any length of time in something deep, it gets past the seals on the bar and also in the mating surfaces of the disconnect housing. After a couple of years of this it will fail to reconnect.

I bought a used Rubicon disconnect from a guy that was going to a front D60; I converted it to manual operation with an Evo NoLimits adapter, and it was awesome while it worked. After a couple seasons it got enough junk inside of it that it stopped reconnecting intermittently. I just went back to plain old basic disconnects at that point--works every time, never fails.

We need someone to sacrifice their Bronco Sta-Bar to some hardcore water and mud testing to see if it will fail similarly, or hold up. If they fail to reconnect after a couple years then it is not worth the extra expense of the Badlands, IMO. A cool feature, yes. But if it can't hold up to regular submersion over about 8-10 years of wheeling then there will be better options. The Bronco disconnect is mounted low on the vehicle... it's going to get submerged unless you are only ever wheeling the southwest US.

The auto swaybar disconnect mechanisms are also heavy. I forget exactly what the weight differential between the Rubicon swaybar and the standard Jeep sway bar is exactly, but it is substantial. It's at least 20-25 lbs. heavier.

There will almost certainly be a Currie AntiRock made for the Bronco. That may be the best value option short of the dual rate SwayLoc. AntiRock is light weight, doesn't need any manual or automatic intervention, and works better with the suspension than fully disconnecting. The downside is that you have a looser rate bar that will not be as tight of a setup on the street. But it will also not ever die in mud or water like an auto-mechanical disconnect.
 
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johndeerefarmer

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Option for option, a Black Diamond Sasquatch is within $3,000 of a Badlands Sasquatch. I figure a Badlands will book out for $1,000-$2,000 more when I go to sell. The effective cost of the LED lighting and disconnect is less than $2,000
I figure by the time I get rid of mine it will be beat to hell. I don't expect the aluminum body to take off road very well. My F150 has three dents in it just from driving around town and dummies hitting it with their doors
 
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johndeerefarmer

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This is my same dilemma. Want the Black Diamond, but am wrestling with moving to the BL to get the Sta-Bar disconnect. It would be a "nice to have" for me, I have always manually disconnected my Jeeps.

Jeep's Rubicon disconnect is notoriously failure prone when it comes to mud and water ingestion. If you do any amount of water crossings and/or deep mud, or get stuck for any length of time in something deep, it gets past the seals on the bar and also in the mating surfaces of the disconnect housing. After a couple of years of this it will fail to reconnect.

I bought a used Rubicon disconnect from a guy that was going to a front D60; I converted it to manual operation with an Evo NoLimits adapter, and it was awesome while it worked. After a couple seasons it got enough junk inside of it that it stopped reconnecting intermittently. I just went back to plain old basic disconnects at that point--works every time, never fails.

We need someone to sacrifice their Bronco Sta-Bar to some hardcore water and mud testing to see if it will fail similarly, or hold up. If they fail to reconnect after a couple years then it is not worth the extra expense of the Badlands, IMO. A cool feature, yes. But if it can't hold up to regular submersion over about 8-10 years of wheeling then there will be better options. The Bronco disconnect is mounted low on the vehicle... it's going to get submerged unless you are only ever wheeling the southwest US.

The auto swaybar disconnect mechanisms are also heavy. I forget exactly what the weight differential between the Rubicon swaybar and the standard Jeep sway bar is exactly, but it is substantial. It's at least 20-25 lbs. heavier.

There will almost certainly be a Currie AntiRock made for the Bronco. That may be the best value option short of the dual rate SwayLoc. AntiRock is light weight, doesn't need any manual or automatic intervention, and works better with the suspension than fully disconnecting. The downside is that you have a looser rate bar that will not be as tight of a setup on the street. But it will also not ever die in mud or water like an auto-mechanical disconnect.
If I go with the BL I will definitely get the extended warranty. One failure of the sway bar would pay for it.
The only other reason to go BL over BD is that the high package is available. If Ford comes out with a fix for the front camera I would like that package. Of course that's more electronics to fail and thus the need for the extended warranty. Mine won't get drove much except off road so the warranty is fairly cheap.

Flood Ford 8 year/60k miles $100 deductible is $1020
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