Squatch Beadlock (beauty) Rings

[Xinnes88X]

So apparently I was dumb and did not remove my beadlock rings before taking it over to my tire shop. Now the bolts connecting my beadlock rings are frozen to my wheels. Obviously they used an impact gun to remove them and tighten them. Any suggestions on how to get them loose now?

TY

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[Montana Bronco]

Use another impact gun ?

 

[ducksface]

Why aren't you asking the guys who did this?

 

[Doc TOC]

Agree with @ducksface. Go back to the shop and have them solve it. Easiest and smartest solution.

You could take a digital torque wrench (25-250 or better) and see what ft-lbs is needed to undo a bolt. They are supposed to be 22 fp/30 Nm. Anything over 35 fp/47 Nm begins thread deformation on those aluminum bolt holes. And yes, the beadlock thread is that low. The 100 fp/ 135 Nm is for the lug nut to brake flange mounting holes, not the bead rings.

If you are only running the beauty ring, then no big deal. Just getting the bolt out matters (replacing ugly stripped bolts, which are not inexpensive).

If you were eventually buying a set of real beadlock rings, and the threads are over-torqued , then you would want replacement wheels. The deformed bolts threads would never survive roadway vibration and the bolts would constantly come loose, or even fall out.

If it's just a matter of tight threads, then not a big deal. A 1/2 inch breaker bar (prefer an impact rated socket), a cheater bar (pipe), and a thick soled shoe should do the trick.

 

[DALOLA]

Have you removed them before? Why would you try to remove them after the tire work was done? Do you know for a fact the tire shop removed them? Seems like an odd order of events.....

 

[Valhalla]

If they used an impact, you will be able to tell by the bolt head. The "hammering" will leave tell tell marks.

 

[Rough Rider]

those bolts are lock tighted in from factory, so they are always hard to remove.

 

[Valhalla]

those bolts are lock tighted in from factory, so they are always hard to remove.

Something about not wanting a metallic ring that is spinning to come off at highway speed I believe.

 

[T800]

Agree with @ducksface. Go back to the shop and have them solve it. Easiest and smartest solution.

You could take a digital torque wrench (25-250 or better) and see what ft-lbs is needed to undo a bolt. They are supposed to be 22 fp/30 Nm. Anything over 35 fp/47 Nm begins thread deformation on those aluminum bolt holes. And yes, the beadlock thread is that low. The 100 fp/ 135 Nm is for the lug nut to brake flange mounting holes, not the bead rings.

If you are only running the beauty ring, then no big deal. Just getting the bolt out matters (replacing ugly stripped bolts, which are not inexpensive).

If you were eventually buying a set of real beadlock rings, and the threads are over-torqued , then you would want replacement wheels. The deformed bolts threads would never survive roadway vibration and the bolts would constantly come loose, or even fall out.

If it's just a matter of tight threads, then not a big deal. A 1/2 inch breaker bar (prefer an impact rated socket), a cheater bar (pipe), and a thick soled shoe should do the trick.

I would assume that the shop is going to be ignorant (or at least claim to be) regarding the torque specs of the rings. They might also refer to them as beadlocks and claim it's 'against their policy'.

If you're lucky and you're nice, they might fix the bolts for you. If the bolts need replacement, I'd expect he will be buying them, not the shop. Replacing the wheels will absolutely never happen.

 

[MickeyT]

Been there. Done that. Only difference is I wish I could “blame” it on a shop, but we did it ourselves by not using anti-seize on each bolt when we swapped rings.

A local tire shop took pity on us and was able to free all of the bolts on three out of the five wheels.
Had to pay a 4x4 shop by the hour to free up the other two.
Lesson learned!

 

[T800]

Also just a reminder that the Ford service dept. would use this as a story of someone that 'voided their ENTIRE warranty'...

This is why 100% of maintenance and repairs should be done by the dealer!

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