Yep- this. If you add an amp without the interface you’ll lose controls (balance, fade, etc, etc).
I replaced all speakers in my B&O and added a sub and sub amp- much much better. Still may consider the interface and amp for the fronts at some point but it cooks for now.
I’ve seen this stated in multiple threads but I don’t think it’s necessarily true. From what I understand you can use an amp with a DSP like an Audio Control D-6.1200 and run it off of the high level speaker outputs from the factory B&O amp. Wouldn’t this allow you to maintain balance and fade controls. What am I missing?
I pulled the trigger and added an amp off the B&O sub outputs. I can confirm it works without any problems. It works great, in fact.This seems like it should work, but I am hesitant to amplify a signal that has already run through another amp; I need to do more digging as to the limitiations of that setup, as I would rather keep my factory sub than drop that kind of money on sub+amp+interface.
I guess this is common knowledge since many LOCs and amps are designed for this situation (able to accept higher wattage inputs of modern vehicle audio packages).
I had to go the LOC route, as my amp of choice (waterproof Kenwood) accepts only very low input voltages. Some amps, like the Kicker Keys, do not need this.
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