Rough Country MLC-6 Multiple Light Controller

[JonDW29]

Sorry for the late response…. It is not exactly pretty, but I used a Drexel with cutting wheel to cut some metal out and make some bends. I then used RTV to seal the gaps. Make sure to paint it quickly, the lids rust very quickly. Even with this and some added bends to the bracket, it still touches the liner slightly, but at least the hood closes all the way. I can’t believe RC still sells this for Bronco….

This is far more well thought out than the hammer approach I was considering taking. I love the idea o f the MLC even with the upfitters, but it hits the liner way too early. Now sitting on a shelf while I consider returning it or trying to modify it.

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[Tabman10]

One update regarding the MLC-6 that may help someone out there... A few months back, I had the dreaded brake control module improper shutdown codes, and had to take my Bronco to the dealer for service. I disconnected my MLC-6 before taking it in, so there was no hassle, but it turns out my battery was dead and replaced under warranty. I'm not sure how much investigating they did regarding battery drainage, but it is pretty simple to verify within range so maybe they did. When I got home, I measured the current drain into the MLC-6 electronics with everything else off. Turns out it was about 24mA, which doesn't sound like much but considering that typical auto modules are allowed about 250-500uA, it could be a huge chunk of additional standby current draw, potentially stressing the battery over time if not left on a maintainer when not in use.
I started to look for fixes, since it is still difficult to find a relay solution that will easily package under the Bronco hood, and after examining the PCB discovered that it appears that all the control wires (along with power/ground) go directly to the relays, with the other onboard "battery monitoring" electronics branching off from the battery and connecting through the pinout header to pins/lines that are not populated on the Bronco interface/switch harness). This leads me to the following observations:
1) The "battery monitoring" features advertised for this product are likely not applicable to the Bronco, since output from that circuitry would only go to the standard external switch boxes that typically come with the MLC-6 for other applications. The load disable is likely shutting down something in the RC control switch box versus at the relay input at the MLC-6 PCB.
2) The relays still function fine if you pull the electronics fuse on the PCB (it is the only doubled fuse, in front of one of the standard relay fuses), and the continuous parasitic current draw goes to 0mA, since no electronics are left connected. I'm not saying the the MLC-6 was definitely the sole reason for may battery failure, but I will be leaving the fuse out.

As always, these are just opinions and investigate for yourself... I have reached out to RC and will post if I hear anything back.

 

[ted.doggett]

Modified the housing and the mount and my hood shuts without rubbing with the hood liner as well. Well worth the effort for $60.

 

[ted.doggett]

Pics of mods

 

[Mumblemouth]

Has anyone tried relocating it? I was really thinking of buying it..but now I hesitate

 

[B22-2023]

Has anyone tried relocating it? I was really thinking of buying it..but now I hesitate

I can't take a pic b/c the (2.7L) Bronco is in the shop today but my relocation is using a bracket that fits next to the coolant expansion tank (where some people often put an ARB compressor).

Now that location is no longer ideal with Injen CAI and charge pipes added, but I'll mod the bracket and make it work.

 

[B22-2023]

2) The relays still function fine if you pull the electronics fuse on the PCB (it is the only doubled fuse, in front of one of the standard relay fuses), and the continuous parasitic current draw goes to 0mA, since no electronics are left connected. I'm not saying the the MLC-6 was definitely the sole reason for may battery failure, but I will be leaving the fuse out.

I replaced my first failed MLC-6 and now a second one is failing the same way: the relay base at that double-fuse location keeps melting, cooking the relay* - without the 30 A fuse popping - and I don't have anywhere near 30 draw on that circuit. Maybe it a design fault in the board when "everything" is on (all my upfitted lights and compressor). RC doesn't want to hear about it, and I haven't pulled out this board yet to inspect the underside yet. I will be pulling that doubled fuse, to eliminate the parasitic draw and any related gremlin associated with not connecting their RC remote switch panel.

*order a few extra relays from RC to throw in your spare fuse bag, no part number online but if you contact them they will send them to you for $10 each.

 

[Mumblemouth]

I can't take a pic b/c the (2.7L) Bronco is in the shop today but my relocation is using a bracket that fits next to the coolant expansion tank (where some people often put an ARB compressor).

Now that location is no longer ideal with Injen CAI and charge pipes added, but I'll mod the bracket and make it work.

Sounds like a long way to run everything, but I’d like to see it. Whenever she gets back from the doctors maybe.

 

[CWGrisw0ld]

Pardon me if I'm missing something here, but how is this box any different than any other of the hundreds of fused relay boxes available on Amazon for $20-30?

 

[Tofudude]

Pardon me if I'm missing something here, but how is this box any different than any other of the hundreds of fused relay boxes available on Amazon for $20-30?

It’s a lot more plug and play compared to the Amazon kits (if it actually fit properly). For a minute it was almost the same price when I bought mine.

 

[CWGrisw0ld]

Other than providing you with the fused power lead to connect to the battery, it really doesn't seem any easier to use than the others. You still have to crimp your connections - just using butt splices instead of ring terminals. It also seems like the plastic Amazon boxes would give you a lot more options in terms of mounting.

 

[B22-2023]

Other than providing you with the fused power lead to connect to the battery, it really doesn't seem any easier to use than the others. You still have to crimp your connections - just using butt splices instead of ring terminals. It also seems like the plastic Amazon boxes would give you a lot more options in terms of mounting.

Yeah - these are good points. Looks like some were designed with marine applications in mind. I'll buy one or two of them and see the quality. This one is solid-looking although there aren't independent relay blocks.

I took a closer look at them and they are decent; the one with independent standard-off-the-shelf relays is as good as any I'd build in the old days with decent Radio Shack parts. I'll send it back and use the other one pictured though - not water proofed but it has terminal blocks integrated into the housing, and I'll totally replace the MLC-6 due to this smaller form factor.

 

[CWGrisw0ld]

That WUPP apparently only has 20a relays in it, so that would limit your output. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[B22-2023]

That WUPP apparently only has 20a relays in it, so that would limit your output. Just something to keep in mind.

Noted. That will be a factor for my twin compressor, so I’ll need to work around that one.

 

[Brian_B]

Yeah - these are good points. Looks like some were designed with marine applications in mind. I'll buy one or two of them and see the quality. This one is solid-looking although there aren't independent relay blocks.

I took a closer look at them and they are decent; the one with independent standard-off-the-shelf relays is as good as any I'd build in the old days with decent Radio Shack parts. I'll send it back and use the other one pictured though - not water proofed but it has terminal blocks integrated into the housing, and I'll totally replace the MLC-6 due to this smaller form factor.

I have the WUPP one shown above in mine. It's held up going on a year now. Nothing special about it

True about 20A per output, the biggest thing I'm driving with it is the rear locker coil at about 5A draw, or some fog lights at maybe 8A per. If you had a larger load you'd just use an external relay - I used a Stinger 500A for my winch, for instance. Since it requires the same sort of input signal, there's no reason to route it through the WUPP.

I have the 6 WUPP outputs + 2 additional relay-only outputs wired to an 8 switch panel in the cab

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