Roadside Assistance Kit Storing

[B-rad351]

I have the Ford Roadside Assistance kit. It is a bigger soft side case. I can’t come up with a good place to stow it as it’s too big for under the rear floor well and takes up a lot of room just sitting on the rear floor.
Any suggestions? (2024 Badlands 4 door)

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[CalvinT]

Looks like the case is the problem. I'd take everything out and put the the different components in different locations. For example the warning triangle, booster cables and most other components in the rear floor well. The warning vest, rain poncho, survival blanket and first aid kit in the pocket under the left rear window. Then I'd find another use for the case.

Anyway, you get the idea, break up the kit and store components in different locations depending on how quickly you need access and how often you'd use them.

I'd have the warning vest and rain poncho where they're easiest to reach. You may want to put the warning vest on first before doing anything else unless it's raining. Then poncho first. .

You don't need to reach the booster cables and triangle as quickly. Having the triangle near the jack seems to make sense to me.

 

[B-rad351]

Looks like the case is the problem. I'd take everything out and put the the different components in different locations. For example the warning triangle, booster cables and most other components in the rear floor well. The warning vest, rain poncho, survival blanket and first aid kit in the pocket under the left rear window. Then I'd find another use for the case.

Anyway, you get the idea, break up the kit and store components in different locations depending on how quickly you need access and how often you'd use them.

I'd have the warning vest and rain poncho where they're easiest to reach. You may want to put the warning vest on first before doing anything else unless it's raining. Then poncho first. .

You don't need to reach the booster cables and triangle as quickly. Having the triangle near the jack seems to make sense to me.

A great idea! Unfortunately, my rear floor well is already filled with a first-aid kit, battery jumper box and the tool kit for the doors/roof. I’ll take everything back out and start from scratch. Thanks!

 

[CalvinT]

I bought a Mountains2Metal Flip Down Attic Shelf. It's a bit of a challenge to install if you have the hard top but I really like it.
I put some recovery gear such as soft shackles and kinetic rope up there. It's another good location for emergency gear.

 

[B-rad351]

I bought a Mountains2Metal Flip Down Attic Shelf. It's a bit of a challenge to install if you have the hard top but I really like it.
I put some recovery gear such as soft shackles and kinetic rope up there. It's another good location for emergency gear.

Nice! I have a soft top, so that’s not an option, dang it.

 

[CalvinT]

Nice! I have a soft top, so that’s not an option, dang it.

It's an easier install for a soft top!!! You may have a security issue with the top down though.

Their install video shows it being installed on a soft top Bronco.

 

[B-rad351]

It's an easier install for a soft top!!!

Oh okay! Duh! I will definitely look into that. Thank you!

 

[fp11]

I bought a Mountains2Metal Flip Down Attic Shelf. It's a bit of a challenge to install if you have the hard top but I really like it.
I put some recovery gear such as soft shackles and kinetic rope up there. It's another good location for emergency gear.

Did you end up removing the hard top? I can’t find a way to screw the top brackets. There’s barely any room

 

[CalvinT]

Did you end up removing the hard top? I can’t find a way to screw the top brackets. There’s barely any room

You don't have to remove the hard top. That wasn't an option for me as I had installed a Trailrax and I wasn't about to remove it.

It's a tight fit. I have mine apart right now trying to get rid of a creak when I go around corners. I think I'll be successful and will make a post when I'm finished.

About the screws that hold the top brackets. You have to insert the front screws from the back seat and they're a bit of a pain.

I recommend inserting the rear top bracket screws first. They're easier to insert if you're in the cargo compartment and reach between the roll bar and the side window. They're difficult if you try reaching from the back. They're much easier if you come in from the side of the roll bar.

Then the front hole in the top bracket will make it easier to locate the hole for the front screws.

I was getting pretty frustrated until I decided to install the rear screws first.

You'll have to use your finger tips to turn the screws in.

Hope this helps.

 

[fp11]

You don't have to remove the hard top. That wasn't an option for me as I had installed a Trailrax and I wasn't about to remove it.

It's a tight fit. I have mine apart right now trying to get rid of a creak when I go around corners. I think I'll be successful and will make a post when I'm finished.

About the screws that hold the top brackets. You have to insert the front screws from the back seat and they're a bit of a pain.

I recommend inserting the rear top bracket screws first. They're easier to insert if you're in the cargo compartment and reach between the roll bar and the side window. They're difficult if you try reaching from the back. They're much easier if you come in from the side of the roll bar.

Then the front hole in the top bracket will make it easier to locate the hole for the front screws.

I was getting pretty frustrated until I decided to install the rear screws first.

You'll have to use your finger tips to turn the screws in.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info. I realized that for the front screws I had to do it from the back seat. Good tip on starting with the rear screws first and to come from the side. Will try that.

Now, what’s the best sequence considering that you can’t install both brackets to the top of the roll bar and insert the attic shelf after? I was thinking to install the driver side top bracket (rear screw first), slide the attic shelf in place, insert the passenger top bracket to the attic shelf and then attach the passenger bracket to the roll bar (rear screws first). Does that make sense? (I already have the 2 other brackets installed, those were easy)

 

[CalvinT]

Install both top brackets. Once you have the front screws in, make them finger tight. Then remove the rear screws. You only needed them to make locating the front screws easier. The top brackets will pivot enough you can install the shelf. Slip it over one pin, then the other. Then replace the rear screws and tighten them finger tight.

After that follow the instructions to center the shelf. The latches will still latch. You may have to use some pressure the first few times but this gets rid of one source of rattle.

As others have noticed, the shelf rattles some. I slipped a piece of Harbor Freight Marine shrink tubing over the pins of the rear brackets, the ones you've already installed. You don't need to shrink the tubing.

Even with the shrink tubing the shelf would creak some when turning or going over bumps. I've ordered some teflon washers from McMaster-Carr that I'm going to slip over the hinge pins. The heads of the screws holding the hinge blocks leave marks on the powder coating of the top brackets. Teflon (PTFE) is pretty tough, so the washers should hold up. You only need one on each side.

So there's movement there. My Ace hardware has rubber washers the same size, but they won't slip and may cause binding unless you leave some play. Hope I'm clear. Feel free to ask for clarification.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/w...~3-8/od~1-500/od~1-5/od~1-1-2/?s=ptfe+washers

 

[CalvinT]

Even with the shrink tubing the shelf would creak some when turning or going over bumps.

Turns out the attic shelf wasn't creaking. It was my overhead molle panel. I got rid of the creaking by loosening some screws.

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