Parasitic draw

[Mlarv]

Correct, a clamp on ammeter is super sensitive, any movement seems to make the numbers jump around. interrupting the circuit with an inline high quality multi-meter seems to work best.

Yup I have been in electronics for 45 years now, from working on Naval aircraft to medical equipment. Current draw is current draw no matter on a car, an aircraft, or a medical device. I was little north of you for 10 years in Sedro Woolley.

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[rtaylor]

Sure is sparky, I said it there and I said it here NO MODICIFATIONS NO SWITCHED ACCESSORIES. you menitoned that accessories would not have to be switched to killl the battery which is unrelated and indicates you dont understand how circuits work..

If you can, post a photo of your battery showing B+/GND terminals with red cover open.

 

[BT!]

If I sayit nj all caps like a used car stealership and then say it a seond time do you not speak English ? I can try google translator for you what is your native tongue ?

No but I manage a fleet of over 1200 vehicles and all of their added in car technology. 99..999% of the time a parasitic draw is the aftermarket accessory added.

So what you are saying is that your vehicle is 100% stock? NOTHING added?

The way to identify a parasitic draw is to take a multi-meter and measure the current draw when the vehicle is off/shut down. If you see any current flow, keep pulling fuses till it stops. You have then identified the circuit. A wiring diagram won't help. You armed with a schematic won't help with a service adviser (who are not techs). Your comment about "ground contacts" is bizarre. The whole dam vehicle is a ground with multiple connection points. The only way to find current flow is using the positive side/fuses. There will be MULTIPLE ground paths for circuits to complete.

I don't physically do automotive electrical troubleshooting any more, but I teach people how to do it.

 

[BT!]

Why would I possible justify your delusions with a Fing photo LEAVE you are not helpful. Do you manage a fleet or do you play a mechanic on TV ? Had you had this issue or are you just a DCK.

If you can, post a photo of your battery showing B+/GND terminals with red cover open.

 

[BT!]

Pretty normal usage would be to leave it parked for 48 hours.

The switched designation is to indicate that if the car is not switched on in the referenced timeframe that that should not be causing a power draw( from an accessory anyway). have autozone checked the battery and alternator and supposedly OK. Even tried a new superior AGM and same thing dead in two days. Another guy said he had the exact same thing as the headlights would cycle due to a bad module may be that. Did not do it when new.

Did the issue suddenly start or was it always present since new? I.e. maybe you only recently started leaving parked 48hrs and/or only driving it very short distances and noticed the issue. Also - you stated “no switched accessories” but any powered aftermarket accessories? Not trolling here, just caught off guard but the “switched” specificity.

Could be the alternator isn’t working but that would be surprising - auto zone/oriely’s/etc… can check that for free. There’s always a parasitic draw on the battery but for it to go flat in 48hrs is pretty darn fast If your driving it and your alternator is working.

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