Lubricate shield bolts

[Area51BS]

Noticed mine were a bit corroded. I used anti
seize.

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[SkyKing]

I am predicting these first 6g Broncos will have significant rust problems down the road. I am a good test bed for rust.

I'm through 4 New England winters with my 21 Wildtrak (yet only 22K miles). I also have a 22 Bronco Sport Badlands with 30K miles for my kids. I change the oil on both of them.

The skid plates on both cars are attracting rust, especially where the bolts are. I also did a professional rust treatment of the underside and frame when the Wildtrak was new, but I am still seeing a notable number of rust spots on seams in metalwork and other areas, including skid plates, modular bumper, factory hitch, and metal fasteners. My wife's 2018 CX-9 with 115K miles looks cleaner underneath.

I am now also using flat black rust reformer spray to try to keep it at bay with spot treatments:
Rust-Oleum 248658 Stops Rust Reformer Spray Paint, 10.25 oz, Matte Black

Anyway - if you live in New England, and care about long term, I suggest you take a proactive approach and buy a can at minimum.

A nearby friend of mine with a 21 Badlands (also lives in MA with ski house in NH), and his looks notably worse. Below is a pic of him trying different rust treatments. Red is before, blue is after. This was a rust dissolver, but it proved to be too much work since it requires sanding, scrubbing, waiting, painting, etc. The reformer spray is one step and far easier for hard-to-reach treatments and ongoing touch ups.

 

[Nc211]

I didn't have any rust but the bolts still required torque to back out. Nothing extreme I think its just a slight difference in the threads.

I've got one of those cordless impact wrenches and had to use it to get mine out. On two of them, it was impacting the whole way out, that's when I realized something was not quite right, or at least didn't feel natural. After I put the grease on the threads of the bolts, I was able to hand tighten them back in for about 75% of the thread travel and then torqued them back down.

 

[RallyGorgo]

I am predicting these first 6g Broncos will have significant rust problems down the road. I am a good test bed for rust.

I'm through 4 New England winters with my 21 Wildtrak (yet only 22K miles). I also have a 22 Bronco Sport Badlands with 30K miles for my kids. I change the oil on both of them.

The skid plates on both cars are attracting rust, especially where the bolts are. I also did a professional rust treatment of the underside and frame when the Wildtrak was new, but I am still seeing a notable number of rust spots on seams in metalwork and other areas, including skid plates, modular bumper, factory hitch, and metal fasteners. My wife's 2018 CX-9 with 115K miles looks cleaner underneath.

I am now also using flat black rust reformer spray to try to keep it at bay with spot treatments:
Rust-Oleum 248658 Stops Rust Reformer Spray Paint, 10.25 oz, Matte Black

Anyway - if you live in New England, and care about long term, I suggest you take a proactive approach and buy a can at minimum.

A nearby friend of mine with a 21 Badlands (also lives in MA with ski house in NH), and his looks notably worse. Below is a pic of him trying different rust treatments. Red is before, blue is after. This was a rust dissolver, but it proved to be too much work since it requires sanding, scrubbing, waiting, painting, etc. The reformer spray is one step and far easier for hard-to-reach treatments and ongoing touch ups.

I had my Badlands sprayed by Krown the week after I picked it up in ‘23 and each year since then. It’s been through 2 NY winters and has no significant rust under it. I did the same with my ‘19 Silverado when I bought it (and every year since) and EVERYTHING comes apart nicely and it has very little rust on it, NONE on the body, no rot anywhere.

And, relative to the OP’s post, everything on my Bronco that gets disassembled underneath gets anti-seize compound on the threads, it’s a good habit to have.

 

[Poppavein]

Hmm! I wasn't aware that Fumoto had a workable solution for the plastic 2.7L pan. Thanks.

Sorry for the confusion, I have the 2.3l.

 

[JBlanco]

I truly hope this fad does not catch on widely. This way of oil change does not empty the most important part, being the bottom of the pan and perhaps particles floating on top. Maybe doing it once every now and then but not normal practice.

I truly recommend you educate yourself on this oil change method before commenting. I've removed the pan and plug on my last 3 oil changes and have retrieved an insignificant amount, around 1 tablespoon of oil that is left in the pan.

Here is something to get you started:

 

[Jazer]

I am predicting these first 6g Broncos will have significant rust problems down the road. I am a good test bed for rust.

I'm through 4 New England winters with my 21 Wildtrak (yet only 22K miles). I also have a 22 Bronco Sport Badlands with 30K miles for my kids. I change the oil on both of them.

The skid plates on both cars are attracting rust, especially where the bolts are. I also did a professional rust treatment of the underside and frame when the Wildtrak was new, but I am still seeing a notable number of rust spots on seams in metalwork and other areas, including skid plates, modular bumper, factory hitch, and metal fasteners. My wife's 2018 CX-9 with 115K miles looks cleaner underneath.

I am now also using flat black rust reformer spray to try to keep it at bay with spot treatments:
Rust-Oleum 248658 Stops Rust Reformer Spray Paint, 10.25 oz, Matte Black

Anyway - if you live in New England, and care about long term, I suggest you take a proactive approach and buy a can at minimum.

A nearby friend of mine with a 21 Badlands (also lives in MA with ski house in NH), and his looks notably worse. Below is a pic of him trying different rust treatments. Red is before, blue is after. This was a rust dissolver, but it proved to be too much work since it requires sanding, scrubbing, waiting, painting, etc. The reformer spray is one step and far easier for hard-to-reach treatments and ongoing touch ups.

I grew up in NH. All my northern cars suffered tremendously. If i had a vehicle I cared about and still lived in the area, I'd have undercoating treatments done preventively. I haven't done much research since, now living in the south, but some type of fluid film or similar done annually before winter seems like the best way to save your vehicle.

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

I truly recommend you educate yourself on this oil change method before commenting. I've removed the pan and plug on my last 3 oil changes and have retrieved an insignificant amount, around 1 tablespoon of oil that is left in the pan.

Here is something to get you started:

Been there, done the research, but thank you. That video (with comments disabled I will add) for one particular oil pan without UOA data, leaves more questions than answers. You removed the entire oil pan? At that point, do the change the conventional way which the manufacturer does. The only vacuum method I observed that gets close to perhaps the same result involved vacuum, followed by opening the drain plug and then pouring fresh oil through to flush the pan.

 

[JBlanco]

Been there, done the research, but thank you. That video (with comments disabled I will add) for one particular oil pan without UOA data, leaves more questions than answers. You removed the entire oil pan? At that point, do the change the conventional way which the manufacturer does. The only vacuum method I observed that gets close to perhaps the same result involved vacuum, followed by opening the drain plug and then pouring fresh oil through to flush the pan.

Yes, I removed the steel protective pan and the plug like the manufacturer recommends.
The comments on the video are irrelevant and shows how little research you have actually done by simply focusing on this. The extraction method removes any sediment that might have escaped the oil filter (the item that's designed to catch any sediment larger than the microns it was built to catch) You believe what you want and change YOUR oil accordingly, just don't criticise when you don't know what you are talking about.

 

[Valhalla]

To the OP, I would strongly suggest not lubing a bolt you tighten to any significant torque. I work at an automotive factory, and we actually have a class on how bad it is to use lube, spit, or wax on a bolt when tightening. You will easily achieve dramatic over torque doing this. it is better to just chase the threads or use a wire wheel and then hit all exposed areas with some cheap spray paint after torqued to seal out moisture.

Searched a quick video, about 4:30 he has a good chart.


We had people easily break large bolts in the class.

 

[Valhalla]

Here is your anti seize on an M14 at 17+ minutes.

 

[Bronco Rick]

I am predicting these first 6g Broncos will have significant rust problems down the road. I am a good test bed for rust.

I'm through 4 New England winters with my 21 Wildtrak (yet only 22K miles). I also have a 22 Bronco Sport Badlands with 30K miles for my kids. I change the oil on both of them.

The skid plates on both cars are attracting rust, especially where the bolts are. I also did a professional rust treatment of the underside and frame when the Wildtrak was new, but I am still seeing a notable number of rust spots on seams in metalwork and other areas, including skid plates, modular bumper, factory hitch, and metal fasteners. My wife's 2018 CX-9 with 115K miles looks cleaner underneath.

I am now also using flat black rust reformer spray to try to keep it at bay with spot treatments:
Rust-Oleum 248658 Stops Rust Reformer Spray Paint, 10.25 oz, Matte Black

Anyway - if you live in New England, and care about long term, I suggest you take a proactive approach and buy a can at minimum.

A nearby friend of mine with a 21 Badlands (also lives in MA with ski house in NH), and his looks notably worse. Below is a pic of him trying different rust treatments. Red is before, blue is after. This was a rust dissolver, but it proved to be too much work since it requires sanding, scrubbing, waiting, painting, etc. The reformer spray is one step and far easier for hard-to-reach treatments and ongoing touch ups.

I live in Florida and have the same rust on those cross members. I have rust in a tone of areas with the seams like you mentioned. I've never been on a beach either. Mine is a 2023 and I'm constantly chasing random rust underneath. Ford failed to coat the frames.

 

[kcmusa]

Hmm! I wasn't aware that Fumoto had a workable solution for the plastic 2.7L pan. Thanks.

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